Applesauce / Cheer 3.0


The auto dash won’t be going in. Managed to (properly) fix the ground problem that’s caused the track mat burning out.

The bolt holding the grounding wire down wasn’t put back in properly at all by the look of it. Even old mate who I bought it off said it was fixed. Threw an extra washer in to make the contact need to ground properly.

Now to fix the burn out on the track mat again


to get around that track problem just tap a wire to the screw on back of dash and then tap into dash plug wire and use a connector so you can remove dash like normal.


Recently had a hiccup with the rear drivers window winder. Somehow the cables (yes not actuator) crossed paths and became tangled. The winder mechanism was making a grinding sound as if the cogs had disintegrated. Pulled it out and found the wire cables has become dislodged and tangled.

Looked into tension figures for fixing it without much luck. Asked around crackbook but no good either. My 1908-1993 Gregorys Chazza and Daihatsu Applause manuals were no good either. I left it with my Dad for a week or so and he managed to put it all back together.

Winder and vertical rails

Winder close up

Remounting the vertical section to the glass brackets

Where my Dads hand is located is a much easier way of recounting it instead of trying to do this than at the top as originally hoped

Mounting the vertical bar back onto the door

The three nuts are where the the winder mechanism goes back into the inside of the door

For now she’s all good once again

Til the next hiccup :grinning:


if you ever need to change dash clusters instead of winding things forward or back what i did on dads starler cluster was use a soldering iron to met the tiny plastic bit holding the numbers for the odometer reading removed it out the one side and put his one onto new cluster


Went to my Dads this morning after project: new stereo and speakers had a cock up a few weeks back with the 6.5s not fitting in the front doors without seriously modifying the door trims ruining the stock look I’m working on.

Alas that portion of the build is complete.

Kenwood KDC-BT720DAB head unit. If you are skeptical on digital radio wait til you hear the signal quality. No good if you live rural as well but the stations available so far is a bit average but that will change no doubt.

In the doors had to settle for some much smaller KFC-S1056 4 inch 2 ways. Much smaller than the 6.5s I originally snapped up and much different sound quality but a major improvement over the crappy paper comes fitted by our friends at Daihatsu some 25 years ago.

Up the back on the parcel shelf a pair of KENWOOD KFC-X694 6x9 3 ways. The metal strength brackets along the rear panel shelf proved fun as the gap is about 5.75 inches and took a few goes with the jigsaw to fit. It’s a bit ordinary but happy enough to keep it going. Even with the rear speakers going for a few weeks, the sound was heaps better again.

Pics will be around at some point I guess shrugs

Next up (eventually / broken record ) will be shocks and struts to fix the body roll and replace the well worn rears that sag worse than an old mans nutsack

The 6.5s I bought are up for grabs. They are KENWOOD KFC-X174 6.5 inch 3 ways. Paid $140 for them retail for something around the $200 mark. They are unfitted and new condition. Will come with the head unit I pulled out of the car unless unwanted.

Apart from that not much to report on, just over 229Kkms on clock now


Rear sag means new springs. Go stiff in the back and relatively soft in the front.


I did have 30 or 50mm lowered king springs in my first two Applauses. Fixed it up the ride rather nicely and felt basically new again. Less body roll in corners, heaps better take off feel, less sag with passengers in the back. Looking forward to getting it done (eventually).


Did a stocktake of spare parts lying around in preparation to move house recently.

Might be selling the old girl sadly.


So for those who are on crackbook, recently saw that the rear windscreen got destroyed.

Called around and tried to get a replacement glass fitted. Some places wanted $400 for the glass. After Jimmyg suggested just get a new hatch I was wondering why i didnt think of that? hah

Called around a few wreckers, some hatches were fucked and rusted, not so keen. Then found one at archerfield and called up letting them know ill come get it in the next few days.

Packed the tools after fiddling with the car so i knew what was required. Got there and paid for it and they’d taken the hatch off already. BONUS.

Got it home, cleaned up the rest of the glass and cleaned it up ready to rock and roll once again.

Cleaned up the garage and got the spare parts all sorted with the new Palace. Hoping to get some work done now that I have the space to work on it.

Watch this space


good work dude! :+1:


Anyone ran there HDE on E10? noticed all the Shells now have E10, 95 or 98 now. What happened to normal unleaded?


Ran my hc on E10 for one tank, never again in a stock motor, ran like crap and only got 350ks to a full tank instead of 450+, these motors weren’t made to suit it and not worth the 2cpl saving over normal ulp. BP haven’t had normal ulp for a couple of years now


Had a feeling that would be the case, something along the lines of e85 it would need some level of work or not worth the trouble to begin with

Have to fill up when I see a servo with actual unleaded that isnt costing me a flipping kidney

Wheres that diesel awd Applesauce when I need it!!!??? :disappointed_relieved::disappointed_relieved::disappointed_relieved:


Dunno about down there but diesel is still $1.439 up here


No different to Brisbane. Anywhere from 1.25 to 1.55 depending on the hood


Nothing wrong with e10 on the Gold Coast, so long as it is 94oct. I would not use 91oct non-e10.


Applesauce horn is on the way out, just get any crappy one from ebay to scare the idiots who can’t see or buy a decent one? Sing out with ya thoughts