Applesauce / Cheer 3.0

Is mounting the light bar like this a sensible idea? Will it restrict air flow enough to cause a problem or nah?

Not my photo but saw it on gumtree and figured I’d see what the verdict is.ad_1506154667790|500x500

ad_1506154667790

shouldn’t worry it much as big opening on bottom of bumper, never had a problem with my 20" on the g200

Yo Dale,

Where did you run the wiring harness through and where did you put the switch inside the car?

Have a blank switch and spare window washer switch for a tidy install but forgot to get the plug to match the switch 🖓

should slot a big single row one between the indicators on the bumper

Cut a small hole in a rubber going through firewall, think it was the one main harness uses, then ran a coathanger through, came out behind glovebox, ran all wires behind dash

Switch was on dash with the wires coming from steering column, was just a stick on switch, but next time will use proper rocker switch and keep wires behind dash totally

Did some poking around lately with the wiring for the light bar, still sitting in the box. :cry:

Tried to measure up some Toyota 16s but rubbed on the rear strut. Have to look into getting something done about them if I end up snapping up a set.

That’s the problem with such wide struts on those applauses

Alright audio nuts who can tell me the real difference between these three sets of 6x9s??

Looking for pretty decent all round sound without getting silly with the cash…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenwood-KFC-X693-6x9-150W-3-Way-Car-Speakers-with-GEN-KENWOOD-WARR/122011280609?hash=item1c687064e1:g:GUkAAOSw5VtaDk9L

As limited as my knowledge is I comprehend the difference between 2 way 3 way and 4 way but the Wattage is what I’m not overly familiar with. Typically the higher the wattage the more powerful right?

The wattage doesn’t make the speaker more powerful it is a measure of how much power it can handle. Most head units put out 50 watts per channel, so if your not running an amp go for the lower wattage option. Another thing you have to be weary of is the ohm rating, picture a speaker as a resistor, if your running more than one speaker per channel you have to work out weather to wire them in parallel or in series, for example if you have 4x 4ohm speakers on one channel all wired in parallel than you have only 1 ohm resistance which is basically a short circuit which would kill your amp or head unit pretty quickly, you would need to two groups of parallel wired speakers wired in series to give you 4 ohms (I hope I’m making sense lol) most head units and amps will have more than 1 wattage rating example 100 watts @ 4 ohms / 80 watts at 8 ohms. Really though for a low level system you can throw together pretty much anything and get it to sound good. All the speakers listed cover high medium and low range frequencies so any of them should work fine.

2 Likes

Very good advise there from @Mick.
Also check the RMS. that is the continued power the speakers can handle.
most speakers / amps only advertise max watts.
Like your head unit might be 4 x 50w max but only put out 18w RMS. (most speakers are low rms also)
Some of the best value for money gear is the jaycar range. They advertise in rms as well.
Their response amps are awesome.

Ps:
RMS Power Ratings: The RMS power rating is the measure of continuous power that an amplifier can output, or a speaker can handle. RMS power is derived from Root Mean Square which is a statistical measurement of the magnitude of a varying quantity and is applied to voltage or current.

2 Likes

Been a while so lets see an update. I did write a blurb but copy and paste seems to have lost it so hopefully I remember it all.

Not long after buying it I did a oil change and whatnot with little worries. Plenty of oil came out and plenty went back in. After noticing the engine light was coming on going too hard around corners I stopped driving Applesauce in favour of the Caddy hoping it would go away. Heh. Earlier in the week, I had a workmate look at it and went to get some goodies including oil to fix up a few things. Engine lost about 2L of oil overall with the tappet gasket / lve cover gasket leaking. Tightened up the bolts to see if they did the trick and sprayed degreaser over the areas needed for the engine. A few days later a few drops had presented and had this morning off and went to see my Dad. Checked it over and headed off to repco to get the gasket. After a few goes of cleaning the head with degreaser and the gerni as well as some polishing it to try and make it shiny looking it’s back on. No immediate signs of oil. Will check the engine tomorrow after a spin and see how it’s turned out.

Suspension is still pretty much rooted, bounces and rolls around like buggery. Took 4 of my workmates to the fish and chips shop one day and it was just dragging along. Everyone had a good laugh. I haven’t done much about the stereo as yet. Still contemplating how much to spend and getting other things in order before spending a good dose of cash on it. Will be going overseas at the end of the year for what will probably be an expensive trip so might not do much else to the old girl before then.

Have a spare bonnet and front and rear bumper bars courtesy of Kevin Flanagan (Mr Urban Camo G203) have painted the rear bumper and in the process of painting the bonnet, considering installing some daytime running lights into the spare front bumper to make it look a little more modern. If anyone has good lights they’ve thrown into theirs feel free to sing out with suggestions (Y)

Spots of engine oil leaking through the bolts :-1:

20180217_100131

Baken on oil spots

20180217_100143

Removing bolts to get head off

20180217_101111

Head off and yep it’s oily.

20180217_10255220180217_101908

New gasket

20180217_102906

A spot of polish to make it (not so) shiny

20180217_104737

20180217_104734

Polishing with drill head and the bench grinder for the big guns

20180217_10375520180217_10373320180217_103733(0)20180217_10373420180217_10453320180217_110153

Head back on and time to fire her back up

20180217_115324

4 Likes

That polish sure didn’t do much at all.
Get some autosol on it that stuffs amazing.
in regards to daytime running lights have a look on ebay at the eagle eye leds they are individual leds and are pretty decent in sunlight to.

Yeah didn’t do much in the end. It was my Dads idea, I wouldn’t have bothered otherwise.

Looking for something interesting the eagle eye ones I found look kinda lame hah

Definitely looks better than it was

before you autosol it, hit it with some 800 wetndry then follow with 1500, realy shine it up :slight_smile:

1 Like

ive got the eagle eye ones hidden inside my headlights.
They were the only ones that were bright enough to be seen during the day. besides paying heaps for individual leds

The dash problem is back and now I’m keen to replace the dash with the one I got from Kevin’s Applause. It’s a gen 1 auto dash and mine is Gen 2 manual. Will be onto it provided weather is good today. Hopefully it’s a plug and play setup but will soon find out.

To adjust the odometer reading I’m running the speedo cable input at the back of the dash correct? Kevin’s dash is at 280Kor so kms ane looking to wind it back to Applesauces 227ishK kms.

See picture below

z