Bertie Bus


how did they go height wise as I know move seats sit heaps higher than mira seats. Its why with me being a short ass I was reluctant to do this but they do look good and would be much better than the stock move seats for sure.


They definitely sit lower. Doesn’t bother me to much, but, you wouldn’t want to be any lower.


damn that’s me out then :frowning:


The oil leak has reduced significantly since cleaning out the airbox and the crankcase ventilation fitting. I will still be keeping a close eye on it and doing a oil flush soon. Along with the oil flush I will also be changing the fuel filter and the spark plugs.

Now to start thinking longer term: I would like to keep it 3 cylinder, but want to add some boost. Since I’ve never boosted anything myself I was thinking engine conversion of either a EF-RL (L6 areodown move) or a EF-DET (L9 Move). I’d get them as a halfcut to make the swap as easy as possible. What do you guys think? Would boosting a local engine be easier?


Mate that is a question guys ask me all the time.
It’s a tough one to answer as both have pros and cons.
By far the easiest and cost effective way to do it is to buy a half cut. Not just because you get a turbo motor but you get the wiring and ecu plus most of the time stronger gearbox and better ratios and not to mention extra goodies that most of our ADM versions get.
In saying that I prefer to build my own motors but that’s because I’m not paying for labour and fabricating all of my own gear.
It does cost a lot more that way given that you would need an ecu plus all internals and a turbo plus all the setup involved like injectors, clutch, cooler, brakes, exhaust, tuning and so on. Keep in mind the labour cost if you don’t have the facility to do your own work.
Hope this gives you an idea of costs besides banging in a turbo.


Thanks for the info Paul! I was leaning towards front cut already as I feel it fits my skills set a bit better for the reasons you mention. I am not looking for a rocket, so a stock turbo engine would most likely be perfect.

You wouldn’t know of any good importers I could start talking to regarding sourcing the front cuts would you?


Hi mate. I have a couple of smaller guys I use to import parts from. One being import monky and one which I use a fair bit being rupertwretch (dan)
I’ll send you their contacts. They will be more than happy to send you a quote.
Or if you find the parts in Japan they can organise to get it over for you.


That would be awesome! Thanks Paul!


Facebook is probably the best.

Also totally forgot.
Talk to @WoodWorx
He’s on here supporting the community. Ask him about importing parts. (I’m not sure if he does this) lol.


Please add to the wiki mate


Been asking around regarding Halfcuts. Surprisingly, getting a halfcut from Malaysia and Japan are roughly the same price. I would’ve thought getting one from Japan would be cheaper. Both around 3-4.5k depending on the cost of the original car/halfcut.

Anyway, looks like I have a decision to make. I basically wanted halfcut due me feeling like it’s the easiest and hopefully fastest way to get the Move boosted. When I say fastest I mean to say that hopefully the least downtime for the Move as it’s my daily.

Here are the things I wanted in a Halfcut:

  • Boosted 3 cylinder
  • Manual
  • Maybe some cool panels from a custom or something and a JDM dash.

What I have found so far is that if I want to have a boosted 3 cylinder they seem to only come in auto. There have been a few manuals, but, they have been all N/As or 4 cylinders (JBs).

My move is currently Manual, so I might be able to use it to convert the halfcut, but, that means more time and I have no experience in converting to manual. The other option is to get a JB-DET halfcut and loose a bit of the funky factor for an easier conversion. JBs are more expensive too.

Not sure which way to go yet.


the change from auto to manual in a 3 cyl E series shoul be as easy as changing the box from auto to manual while both are out. Your current shell is already set up for manual so I don’t see a big issue with it being done. It was more than likely a harder with mine as I needed a manual pedal box and had to cut a bigger hole in the floor where as you wont have to do those things.


Thanks for that jimmy.
Next question: Does anyone know the difference between the looms for ed vs ef (specifically ef-det or ef-rl)? I only ask as I was talking to someone who went from ej to ef-det and they said there was only one pin different into the ecu.


I went to go from ed to ef/el and there is a few different senor’s and part of the move ecu does some body stuff but cant remember what off hand. I ended up just dropping 2 senor’s from ed20 (both on the intake) to get the efel head running on ed block. Everthing else was the same with ef/el and ed20 block in the way of sensor’s was the same.


Thanks Jimmy. Did dropping the two sensors cause any issues?


no one looks like an air temp sensor that’s on the driver’s side of the of the intake manifold, I plan on putting that one back on with some mods to the ef/el intake and the other looks like a coolant sensor or cold start sensor under the throttle body. The only thing it caused was the engine check light to come on.


As always, thanks for the help Jimmy! You’ve been a fount of knowledge and a big help.


I’m sure if you find out which pins you can loop the connection somehow to make it think it’s running and get rid of the engine light.
The check engine light bulb is easy to remove…:wink:


Not a major update, but, I was able to get a bonnet and rear bar from a Move of similar colour to replace the faded and chipped original ones. D3BEA399-05CB-436C-B5FC-D5869814DE870BB8B886-8D58-48BF-80BB-6D79C6C72190


Nice and clean Rob.