Is your pipe 40mm ID or OD? I have some in my shed with a 41mm ID and thought that might work.
Just the run of the mill pvc water waste pipe. Prob 41mm. Can’t remember. I did turn the OD down in the lathe a little so the silicone hose did not need forcing on.
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I have run into a bit of a road block regarding suspension. Specifically regarding stiffening up the rear springs.
That road block is my Son; Bertie is a daily driver and as part of that I often have to cart around my 3 (almost 4) year old son.
We were talking yesterday and he said he really likes going in Beartie, but, it’s really bumpy. I asked if it was too bumpy. After a pause, he said it wasn’t. But, the pause was telling.
I would still like to reduce roll, but, that might have to be with the use of a rear sway bar rather than stiffer springs. I realise that this won’t be the best option, but, it is a compromise I have to make to ensure the practicality of Beatie as a daily driver.
With all this in mind, I would be able get my hands on a 16mm solid and 19mm solid rear sway bar for the same price. Which would be my best option? Would 19mm on top of my slightly stiffer rear springs be too much? I fell going from no rear bar to 19mm is a pretty big change.
another option is to get rear springs for daily duties and the when going to track just swap them out. It was what I was doing until now. I have a set of stock gtvi springs that you can have. They are a bit of a bugger to get in due to height of them and may give you the rake look in the back but it is definately alot better comfort street driving with them. My wife also hated how bumpy my move is also.
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I think you’ll find it wants to change ends and in throttle off situations it will want to spin.
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The bigger the bar the worse you’ll find it. There is not a lot of weight on the back, it has no subframe and the trailing arms bolt directly to the chassis, so you will get a rough ride. To make the back stiff and to react in a way that sends more grip to the front you either increase spring rate or fit the larger roll/sway bar. The spring route with no sway bar keeps either side as independent suspension so an input into one side does not affect the other. A sway bar couples both sides, it’s a torsion bar or second spring. With weight transfer from straight line braking or accelerating everything just rides up and down on the coil springs, but in cornering what happens to one side affects the other. Personally I like the smallest sway bars I can get away with and then to have some adjustment on them so at the track you can make little changes (little and quick changes that often just can’t be done with springs, athough spring packers are an option but still harder to get in than to adjust a bar). To move towards comfort (pun intended) and keeping handling balance a high aspect ratio good quality tire should help some.
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Current plan:
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Keep springs and shocks as is
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Purchase and attach a 16mm rear sway bar. If not to my liking sell on as they also fit the Mira
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Semi slicks for at least the front end on race day (hopefully all around)
Hoping this still results in something that turns better, while still being daily-able. We shall see.
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I am at a crossroads. Those who are my friends on FB or follow on Instagram would’ve seen that Beatie had to be towed home yesterday. Not sure of the issue yet; clutch is engaging but have no drive and there is a grinding noise. I haven’t had a check to see what it is yet.
Onto my conundrum, the wife has a long standing rule: 1 daily and 1 project car. I have an ongoing project car which is a a VF regal Valiant. This car holds sentimental value and will never be sold.
So, I have been using my daily driver as a second project car of sorts with the agreement that it will be able to get me to work reliably. At this stage of ownership Bertie hasn’t been overly reliable.
I have a 2008 Swift that I was using as a interim daily while Bertie was getting worked on. Great little car, auto unfortunately.
So, I have to make a choice between getting Bertie back on the road and selling it or hoping it will be reliable from now on and continue with the project.
I am torn.
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If you need gearbox parts let me know. Plenty of spare box parts.
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Update time: Bertie is back on the Road. The splines on the drivers side wheel hub were worn smooth. Thanks to @Mokeman for sending me a replacement with express shipping.
Bertie is also going in to a Panel Beater tomorrow to get a small bump fixed up that wasn’t my fault. Once that is fixed it looks like Bertie is sold.
That me out of the Dai game for a little while. I will continue to organise the trackdays and will join you on track if you are all ok with me joining you with a auto swift.
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You’ll be back, maybe not tomorrow. Everyone comes back eventually. It’s the Daihatsu way.
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I have no doubt I’ll be back. There are plenty of Dais I’d love to own. When the time is right, I’ll be back.
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yeh and until then ofcoarse your welcome on the track with your swift. I may even bring my old slow swift out also. The you wouldn’t be the only one 
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Would be cool to see poop on track. Off to get Bertie fixed.
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Damn did the rod fail? Trying to have this not happen to mine! Might have to get rods before a turbo.
[quote=“b_hoves, post:1, topic:766”]…there seems to be oil escaping from under the oil filler cap…[/quote]That’s EDs 10 and 20-inherent. I ended up gluing my cap onto the valve cover, using silicone. When I change the oil, I take my time squirting fresh oil down the dipstick tube, using a large syringe. It has stayed bone-dry, ever since
oh dear that’s not a great solution. If you just use a piece of tyre tube and cut an extra piece to go on the cap then it works fine or if lazy like I have been before just use some silicone on the cap and put it on. It is easy to get back off and sort of creates grooves that stop the oil. Easy to take off and re-apply when needed to.
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