Blyatsu 2 - The Ultimate Daihatsu (L701)


Welcome to my topic! I’m Daniël, born in 2000, and I’m from the Netherlands. The goal for my project car, The Blyatsu 2, is to make it the ultimate car/Daihatsu (for me at least). I made this topic to share my progress with you, but also to share my knowledge with you!

I’m pretty resourceful, if I may say so myself, and as i’m getting a lot of questions about what I did or how I did it, it seemed to me that it would be much easier if I just put all my knowledge in one place! If you have any questions, please send me a message on Instagram @the_official_blyatsu .


Alright before we start, I want to point out a few things. First of all, I’m just going to put every change I’ve made to the car in here. So it might not be a real “mod”, but… yeah well it’s my topic so :slight_smile: . The second thing I wanted to point out is that I’ll go through the mods chronologically, so it’s not like “1. body, 2. suspension” etc etc. The last thing I wanted to point out is that although I discovered many things myself, I did not discover all of them myself or maybe I’m not even the first to discover it. So, disclaimer on that.

Right, it’s mod time.


Avanzato/TR stuff


I kept the Avanzato bits under my bed because “I might get a project Cuore in a few years”. Yeah we saw how that went.
Anyways, installing them was pretty easy, as the hood is secured with only 4 bolts, and the front bumper with 9. At least, it used to be. there are a few holes where it is impossible to get a bolt in, and as a result of that it’s secured with only 4/9 bolts right now (two on the front and two on the sides).



I took the gauges and heater control unit from a Sirion 1.0 (M1). The attachment points from the gauges are a little different, but you can try and swap housing bits with the stock gauges. And if that doesn’t work, just get a saw and cut everything off. It’ll be a bit wiggly, but it’ll stay in place.

I kept the “wooden” trim from the Blyatsu 1 and put in in as well.




Speaks for itself.



Yes that panel is green.
I needed some new wheels as the stock 13" steelies were fitted with sketchy tires, causing it to shake the steering wheel like crazy.

I thought it would be cool to go with black steelies, as a temporary option. I wanted decent rims someday, but I wanted to save money first. So I got 14" steelies from a Sirion (M1), and bought new tires. However, they were a little… big. Huge in fact. It looked like a monstertruck. But, it drove well and man did those tires grip!



I bought a Avanzato/TR spoiler from someone whose Cuore had died and was sold in parts. The only issue was that the 3rd brake light didn’t work.




Door handles, and shift boot. You can find these on a Sirion (M1) or YRV . You can find cupholders on some L7’s, L251’s, Sirion M1’s and YRV’s



I took the headlights apart and painted the non-reflective parts black.
To take apart the headlights, you have to remove all the bulbs and screws, and then carefully take off the lens. You do this by heating up the edges, which softens the glue (butyl) which holds the lens in place.

The square plate looks a bit funny in this picture. That’s because the mounting point for the plate was cut off by the previous owner.



Someone offered a brand new set of mats for €20. They were made for an L251, but they fit in an L7 as well. Kind of.



Well, not exactly a mod, but it makes people laugh so I thought I’d show you :smiley:.




Leather seats in a Daihatsu Cuore. Yeah.
A friend of mine sent me a picture of a Cuore on a junkyard which had these seats and I thought: why not? I paid €75 for the lot and I think that’s quite good value!



This bumper came from the same car as the leather seats. It was in better shape and so I could properly mount the license plate.



I know it looks a bit weird, but at this point the rear is not finished yet.




I was in need of a new radio, and so I bought this Kenwood! Works really well and looks sleek. I also fitted a clock which I took from a Move L9.




This is probably one of the biggest changes and one of my proudest possession! I got them in Japan (google Mira led tail), and after 2 months of waiting, I finally got them.



I took the gauges from a Gran Move (a.k.a. Pyzar), because I like the black plates better. The only problem is that the tachometer doesn’t work properly. I think this is because the Gran Move has a different engine (which has 1 more cilinder). However, this is an easy fix.
You can swap the tacho unit with the one from a Sirion 1.0 or a Cuore. Just put the tacho plate from the Gran Move on the other tacho unit and you’re good to go!




Bye green Fender!






I got this steering wheel from a JDM Copen, and I think it looks way better than the stock wheel.



I didn’t like the orange needles, so I swapped them for red ones! I really really love this look!



I liked the ball-gearknob-shift-thingy in the Copen, so I got one for the Blyatsu!



I needed a mirror with a dimming function, so I took one from a Sirion (M1).



The top spec Cuores were equipped with a fuel and trunk release lever. I found one and as clumsy as I can be, immediately broke it. I got it sort of fixed by using an appropriate amount of tape, and it works fine!



Finally lowered! Although it’s not particularly slammed, it still looks cool and drives way better


Some of you may consider lowering springs or coilovers, but don’t know what’s best.
My advise is this: if you want to go lower: buy springs. It’ll sit about 40mm lower, depending on what springs you’ll buy (VMAXX, Cobra for example), and as a bonus, it’ll improve the handling a bit.

If you’re looking for better handling and adjustability, you should definitely invest in an nice set of coilovers. I say “investment”, because good coils are not cheap. I got mine for €800 for example. You can buy cheaper coilovers, but in my opinion they’re not as good or adjustable as the BC coils.



A few months earlier, I went to Germany to get a set of Avanzato/TR bumpers. I sold the front bumper, but kept the rear bumper. When I got it, is was silver, but a friend of mine painted it blue for me! That same friend helped me with the third brake light, which looks more modern than the stock one!


Testfitting the projector

I made a T10 plug so the LED strip would be powered by the parking light socket

Filled up the holes where the parking lights used to be


The result!

A little bright at night

After making it a little less bright

Together with @daihatsu.cuore who had also fitted her car with retrofits!


I got YRV Turbo rims from a junkyard, because I wanted 15" rims and I like OEM rims better than aftermarket rims. There was however a slight problem (or so I thought) what made me throw them away, and go back to that steelie life :confused:.




I ordered some JDM goodies on a Japanese auction! Mira Gino plate garnish, JDM mirrors, and an OEM non-smokers ashtray.



So the impossible happened. I fell in love with a pair of brand new aftermarket rims.
MSW 85 in Gunmetal Grey

And after fitting them with tires…
Nankang NS-20, 185/45/R15.
This combination of tire+rim fits perfectly! However, I had to raise it about an inch to stop it from rubbing when hitting speed bumps. The wheel arches need to be rolled, and then it should be good to go!


This is probably one of, if not the scariest project so far.
The wiring harness is basically your cars nerve system, so if there is just one thing that’s not working properly, your car might not start.

You’re probably wondering why the hell I would do such a thing, but here’s why. Al the pre-facelift Cuores got the same wiring harness. So if you wanted to fit your car with fog lights, the wires were already there. However, as this is a base-spec (STi) facelift model, there were no extra wires. If there would be, I could have working fog lights, power windows, and power mirrors.

One day I saw this top-spec Cuore (RTi) on a junkyard, in blue. So… I took the wiring harness, the doors and a few other bits with me. It did fit in the car, but only just.

It took 2 days and 1 sister to install the new harness, and here’s how I did it:

  1. Take apart the front of the car:
    – front bumper
    – fenders

  2. Take out the dashboard. To do that here’s what you need to take out first:
    – gauges
    – steering wheel
    – center console (so the radio etc. but also the bits around the shifter and handbrake)
    – seats, you don’t have to but it might be easier
    – glove box
    – passenger airbag (bolts underneath the dashboard)
    – make sure to label all the bolts, so you don’t have to figure out what’s what when putting it back together.


  1. Disconnect every plug like this:
    – take the plug
    – label it with a tag and give it a number as well
    For example: 11 ECU immobilizer

– then put all the numbers and labels in an Excel sheet, so you don’t lose track of all the numbers
– if there are any plugs that are not connected, you label them “X”
– also take out both fuse boxes, you’ll need the ones from the new harness


  1. Labeling the new wire harness
    Put both harasses on the floor next to each other and start labeling the new harness like you labeled the old harness. The easiest way to do that is to choose a starting point (the left headlight section for example), and work your way to the other side.
    Another way to do it is to start with #1 on your Excel sheet and work your way up. The reason I didn’t do that, is because the new harness will have more plugs (for your power windows, and mirrors etc). Therefore, if you just follow the numbers, you’ll skip the unlabeled plugs.
    By working your way from left to right, you’ll see every single plug. And when you do find a new plug, try to find its destination, label it, give it a number, and put it in your Excel sheet.

  2. Putting the new harness back in
    Putting it back in is basically the same as getting it out but in reverse. The best thing to do is start were you ended with the old harness.
    WARNING: make sure that the ECU and immobilizer are properly connected, otherwise the car won’t start.

  3. Testing
    Before putting everything back together, make sure to test the harness by firing the car up. If there are any problems you can easily acces the entire harness.

  4. Put the dash back in, and the front of the car back on.

List of things I used:

  • new wire harness
  • fuse boxes (1 under the dashboard, 1 in the engine bay)
  • tape and marker (for labeling the harnesses)
  • zip ties
  • small tools (like a ratchet, screw drivers, cutting knife, scissors)
  • insulation tape
  • motivation
  • one sister



I think nobody would be surprised to hear that my car had some rust issues. However, it was starting to become a serious problem, so I got it fixed by a local welder, and he did a pretty good job!




So the new wire harness was in, but the new doors were not. Until now!



Some of you probably know that Sirion brakes bolt on to the steering knuckle from a Cuore/Mira. If you do, you probably also know that Copen brakes will fit as well. This is because they all have the same or similar steering knuckles.
I decided to take it a step further and see what other cars use the same steering knuckle.
The result: 254mm brakes from a Daihatsu Materia (a.k.a. Toyota bB QNC20, or Subaru Dex), and a brake caliper with a 54mm piston (instead of the Cuores 51 mm).
I ordered all the parts and I will be rebuilding the brakes hopefully very soon!
Here’s a list of brakes that would fit a Cuore:

Sirion (M1)/ YRV (M2): 234 mm
Copen: 246 mm

Brakes that may fit (MAY fit because I’ve never seen anyone doing it, yet):
Cuore L251: 234 mm
Sirion 2 (M3): 234 mm or 246 mm, depending on engine size
YRV Turbo/Cuore L275 (apparently): 246 mm
Materia (M4): 254 mm

Keep in mind that when you are swapping brakes, you might have to get new dust covers as well!

My advise is this:
234 mm is probably more than enough brakes for everyday driving.
246 mm will suit a sportier drive style, and I think they’ll last longer in terms of brake fade.
254 mm is probably overkill. Bear in mind that this is just a 700kg car, and it doesn’t need that much stopping power, especially with the stock engine. The reason I’m putting them on my car, is because I wanted to know if it could be done at all, and because I want to do a K3VET swap in the future.





After months of collecting dust, I finally installed my window visors! They work great. Now I don’t have to suffer from heat, or wind noise anymore :slight_smile: .




I sold the leather interior and got Sirion M1 seats from @Roffelkut .
I’m going to fit Recaro’s in the future, but in that case I’d have to sell only the old front seats. The thing is that I rarely have someone sitting on the rear seat, so I figured might as well sell the seats all together, and use that space for something that is useful to me.



With the help of some friends we installed a short shifter! We also replaced all the bushings and rubbers, because the old ones were shot. The shifter feels amazing! However, the AliExpress shiftknob doesn’t feel all that great, and I might need to extend the shifter, because it’s a little low now and I need to stretch my arm whenever I shift.



While installing the short shifter, we also rolled the fenders so the wheels wouldn’t rub anymore. After doing so, we could drop the car over an inch at the front, and about 2 cm at the back. For me, this is the perfect hight!



I wasn’t really happy with the chrome around the edges of my taillights, so I used plastidip to paint them black!


It took a lot of time (and money) to get this right (still isn’t but it’s fine for now), but the plate garnish is finally on the car. Here are a few pictures if the process!









On pictures it doesn’t look all that bad, but standing next to the car you’ll see the paint has orange peel and a few scratches. As I said, I still have to get it right, but I think it’s okay, considering that this was my first time painting a body panel. I’m going to make a little brace to make the license plate sit a little higher.

Oh and I got rid of the stickers on my rear window, for a cleaner look.


Fit the Recaro’s
Copen swaybar

K3VET swap (with a manual)

Please send me a DM on Instagram if you have any questions @the_official_blyatsu !


The Avanzato front was a great score. Same with the rear spoiler I think I can see atop the hatch. Wheels look fantastic.


Great write up mate!


Awesome car and writeup!!
Seems like you have a nice selection of dais in netherland


Nice article! I’ve been following you on instagram for quite some time.
Where did you get your new projector for your modded headlights? They look gorgeous!


Hey man, thanks!
To be honest, I got all the parts from Aliexpress. There’s not much that could go wrong, maybe the LED’s themselves. They’ve been performing great so far, so definitely worth a try!



Ever since I got the car, I wanted to swap the EJ for a K3VET. I think I wasn’t the only one who wanted that :sweat_smile: . The biggest problem for me however, is that I don’t have a garage, driveway, or any other place to properly work on a car. Basically everything I do, I do on the streets. That doesn’t have to be a problem, but for doing an engine swap, it is. Next to that, I still owned the Copen as well back in the day, so a third car, as a donor, wouldn’t be the most responsible thing to do. So I figured, once the Copen is sold, I’d get a YRV Turbo donor car. I sold the Copen, but then, COVID happened, and everything came to a hold.

I still didn’t have a place to swap an engine, and all the YRV’s that were for sale were around €1500/€2000 with km’s, which seemed a bit extreme for me. As we approached the end of the year, it would soon be too cold to do an engine swap. And because the MOT expires in July, there wouldn’t be enough time to do get a donor car, do the swap in spring, and get it registered in time. Especially not in this COVID situation. So, I decided to wait until the car would pass MOT, and then do a swap.

I like to do things thoroughly. I wanted to do this swap properly, and so a decent planning and investigation are required. I spent a lot of time working out how I was supposed to do everything correctly, and made all sorts of lists. This is where I started to have second thoughts…

Some of you may know this, but for those who don’t: a K3VET and a manual gearbox don’t go together that well. I’ve seen multiple pictures of gearboxes with 3rd gear completely gone. Sure, it can handle a bit of torque, but it’s not really made for that amount of torque. And because I like to do things thoroughly, this was a bit of an issue. I looked up almost every Daihatsu and Toyota gearbox, and contacted a few companies to see if it was able to strengthen the gearbox, but that was a dead end. Quite a lot of people said to me, “if it breaks, just get another gearbox”, but I don’t want my car to break down every few months. Then I’d have no car for who knows how long.

That wasn’t the only thing that was worrying me. Let’s say I would get a K3VET and put it in my car. Then I’d have a ~800kg (including all the mods) FWD car with 130hp and 177Nm. Sounds pretty cool, right? Well, it is, IF you can use all that power. You’d have to get an LSD to get rid of the one-tire-fire, maybe wider tires (too wide for a Cuore perhaps), and still you might not be able to put all the power down. It’s still a 800kg FWD car, which isn’t ideal for “big” power figures. You might be able to go fast in a straight line, but what’s the point? I’m not going to dragrace my way through life!

The last thing was “living with a K3VET”. Fuel economy and maintenance being my 2 worst concerns. The K3VET wasn’t designed to be economical, and although the Cuore is a light car, I don’t think you’d get recordbreaking mileage. Yeah yeah I know “smiles per gallon”, but getting good mileage is like a sport to me. With the EJ, it’s a pretty fun sport. I was concerned about maintenance because the injectors and turbo are quite expensive to replace. That’s a thing to consider, when buying a donor car. (I know not everyone will agree with me on this.)

All in all, I wasn’t enjoying the K3VET-swap-idea as much as I’d hoped. Now, I’m going to give you the best advice I can offer you: get a good idea of what you want your car to be. What is your goal? And how will you achieve this goal? Well, my goal is to make the best-of-both-worlds-Cuore, for me. So a fun driving car (handling, power), without breaking the bank (costs of mods, running costs) or my back (comfort). Not the fastest Cuore ever to exist. And putting it this way, the K3VET doesn’t make a lot of sense. At least, not enough sense.


Looking at other options, the K3VE and K3VE2 seemed like more suitable options. You can do a bit of tuning as well, which would be a fun thing to do once the engine got in. I knew a guy (@TGL701) who had a few of those tuning/performance parts laying around, because he once planned to build one of the quickest Cuores on this planet, using a 3SZ-VE (which is basically a K3VE with a bigger stroke). Sadly, he decided to cancel the project, and sell all the parts.

I contacted him to see if he still had those performance parts laying around. As it turned out, he still had the 3SZ-VE as well. We talked about the specs and what it would’ve been like if he’d actually got it in a Cuore, and all of this just made me really excited, something the K3VET didn’t do anymore. After some thinking, I decided to go for it, and buy all of the parts!

I got a great deal on the whole lot! I paid €600 for the engine, gearbox, wiring harness, and a lot of smaller bits and pieces. The asking price was actually €500, but here’s the thing: normally, the 3SZ costs €750-€1250, with 70xxx - 150xxx km’s, while this engine had only done 52xxx km’s. On top of that, I know that everything must’ve cost quite a lot of money, and that the man wouldn’t be able to get all of that money back by selling the parts. It didn’t feel right, and I thought to myself “I’m going to get a good deal anyway, so I might as well pay an extra €100”. I’d appreciate that too, if I was the seller.

Now, I know this doesn’t make sense to a lot of people. Why pay more than the asking price? Well, that’s just me. It’s not a bad thing to give, instead of just take. By doing so, people are more likely to help you in the same way. Some other day, someone else will pay you a bit more, or give you a discount, or help you out when you need help. That’s just how it works for me. And if €100 is the price to make someone extra happy, and having a clear conscience, I’m willing to pay that.
I’m not seeing it as “paying €100 extra”. For me, I just got a lot of value for €600, and saved a lot of money compared to swapping a K3VET (which probably would’ve cost me more than triple that). And compared to the K3VET, the 3SZ just. makes. sense. for me. It just does!

I’m really excited for the project! I’ll be do a lot of planning and pre-building in the next couple of months, and hopefully swap the engine in summer 2021. I’ll post all my updates on this topic!


Dude this is awesome. Really like the cuore. I was also planning on K3-VET swapping my Sirion but although that is still the plan I since learned that it isn’t 'just swapping the engine’s. The gearbox is a real struggle but I find it hard to believe that Daihatsu’s wouldn’t be able to make a gearbox handle those (let’s be real) not that big numbers. My dad drives the M300 1.5 with the 3SZ engine which isn’t slow either so good thing that you chose the more reliable set-up. Although I must warn you that the fuel consumption of the K3-VET and the 3SZ doesn’t differ that much.

If you need any hands helping with the car just let me know :slight_smile:


Thanks so much! Cool story :grin:. I’m not expecting diesel-like figures, but keep in mind that the M300 is about 200kg’s heavier than a Cuore. That’s still no guarantee, but it’s likely to make a difference!
If I run into something, I’ll let you know!

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My mom was able to get around 17km on 1 liter with the yrv turbo so the most important factor is your right foot :wink: to be honest I don’t think I even get those number with my m300 now… Way to much fun to drive.


Haha yeah that’s what I thought! As I said in the story about the 3SZ, getting good mileage is a sport to me, so we’ll see what I can get from that engine :smiley: . Btw, 1:17km is a pretty decent figure!

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I never understood how she was able to. My dad and I usually got around 1:13-1:15. It was a real shame that the gearbox failed at 200k. First sounded like it was filled with grid. At that time we looked into letting it get rebuild but no garage would even dare to start since no one knew the car. Our local garage was able to get in contact with a Daihatsu dealer in Japan but the rebuild only would cost around 3000 euro so that was more than the car was worth. Still mis the little pocket rocket.


That’s a shame! I’ve heard that story before though, there aren’t a lot of people who know how to work on that gearbox. I know 1 guy who got his gearbox fixed, but it wasn’t a cheap fix either. Such a shame!

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I think the life of the gearbox can be extended if you map the ecu differently or try an other turbo with smoother power delivery but no aftermarket support in NL so it will (almost) never be worth it to even get started. I foolishly thought that with around 2k you would be able to get an K3-VET in a cuore/Sirion, but like you said, you’ll need allot more to make it really work the way you want it. Daihatsu’s aren’t worth allot so you’ll always invest more than the car is worth.


I see your point, but the way I see it is this: I’m not planning on selling the car, and because the car isn’t worth much, it just means that the costs are lower! Why get a more expensive car and throw more money at it, when this will do just fine, for a lot less money :smiley: .

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Exactly. The turbo swap in the Sirion is still the plan, although a distant one. I plan to keep this car till the end so value is less of a problem. Since the 3SZ is basically the same engine as the K3 I plan to keep an good eye on this tread :wink: I love it how allot Daihatsu parts are interchangeable.

Do you think the gearbox of the cuore is able to fit the 3SZ? Or do you plan on swapping that with the engine?


I got the gearbox that came with the 3SZ engine. The gearbox might fit in terms of bellhousing, but the clutch is different, and the Cuore gearbox will probably shatter under the load of a normal 3SZ. I have looked into this because of the revs, but the K3/3SZ gearbox will just have to do. Still, it won’t rev nearly as high as the Copen did: 4000rpm @100km/h :upside_down_face: .


Hope it will fit under the car xD But there are allot of great minds here that know allot about these cars.


Feel like i’ve got to defend the honor of the K3-vet a bit here. I’ve bought my YRV turbo more than 2 years ago with a broken gearbox (duh) that i swapped with a manual. It’s got around 190 000 k’s on the clock and so far i haven’t got any issues with the engine (Daihatsu sure knows how to make one). It just takes a bit of oil and rarely on cold starts the chain is a bit rattly.
About the fuel consumption- i get around 7,5 L/100km and that’s pure city driving. When i had my L7 Cuore i used to get 5,5 L/100km so not that big of a difference considering it had less than half the power of the YRV. Given that the Cuore is some 200 kg lighter maybe more, i bet the consumption would be even lower. After all when i get a hold of some other daily i’m thinking about swapping the turbo drivetrain into a Cuore so we’ll see :slight_smile:


It was not my intention to hate on the K3VET, I just tried to motivate why it wasn’t for me. I’m sure it’s still a great engine and fine to live with! I like your car btw, I’ve had a lot of fun reading your topic :slight_smile:

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