What condition is the ED10 in?
Yeah cheers Gormsbyā¦ I had noticed that on some photos so was going to suss that out further down the trackā¦ Iāve never had a super clean engine bay before so hopefully I can have it looking clean enough to eat off which will involve deleting all the unnecessary piping and whatnot. Cheers bro
No idea manā¦ Honestly it was sitting in a yard and it didnāt have any oil in it and it had no oil Cap so it looks like leaves and shit have fallen into the galleryā¦ If you are local and you want it by all means come grab it man, itās gonna go to the tip on the weekend but I can grab it back out of the trailer if you want anything from itā¦
Clean engine bay is nice. Good for inspection and being able to access things, lower weight and with less to undo (including cabin mount battery) I can have the engine and box out in 45min (including bumper removal and everything else that makes it a driver). Jackshaft is one key to this speedy removal alllowing a twist out (much slower to put back in as a ball joint has to be disconnected to get a drive shaft back in). So having a few less heater hoses to remove is good. Speedy engine/box swaps are also the reason for putting some AN6 connections in for fuel. A forced induction car of course means slow work.
Can you explain it bit more?
I usually just remove the two hoses from the feed and return and stick a bolt in themā¦ not very time consuming?
I seem to have to wrestle to get the hose that I like to use off (think brand of hose). 10min mucking around with hose is to much time, and it is so tight often it has to be cut (gets shorter and shorter of course). AN6 is threaded so quicker. Then there is AN6 quick connect bayonnet fittings. Motorsport puts a lot of stress on everything. From my experience I want reliability in some thing like this.
10min extra time is a lot when something goes wrong or something is not right. Iāve been at the track before with a totally wrong diff ratio. A friend and I did the swap at the track in time for my next session. Came second overall at those sprints. Would have been last if not changing the diff. Another issue are the drive shafts. Iād like to go to bolted flanges on the passenger side one day. Itād make my method of gearbox/engine change much quicker (out fast right now but putting it back in is slow).
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Yep the AN fitting idea is brilliant for easier removal down the track. I will 100% be doing that as well just because like you Iāve had stuff shit itself at the track and only because of little fixes like that was I able to be back out on track an hour laterā¦
So just a minor update todayā¦ I finally made ky decision on colour and pulled the trigger on the wrap todayā¦ My mate who does it professionally got me the hook up so for 20metres itās going to be just over 300 bucks landed at my doorā¦ Wonāt reveal the colour yet because it will be a better reveal once itās doneā¦
Also found a complete gasket set off yahoo Japan for the Ej for 110 delivered which includes headgasket as well so once that arrives Iāll keep stripping down the engine ready for the freshen upā¦
I havenāt actually found a place for replacement headstuds yet so if anyone knows where to get those I would appreciate it.
Quick pug picā¦ Ruby in her pretty dressā¦
Alright drive safe guys!
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Oh headstuds! You can use OEM. Other than that here are the options: ARP head studs for an Audi 1.8 use internal wrenching nuts like seen here
Plus call ARP for custom studs; or, as Jono (EJ-DE Turbo L700 with manifolds he made his self which would not be out of place in an art gallery) has suggested bolts for a Nissan V6 (memory lapse one the model) are threaded with enough length that they should be able to be made to fit. These are not studs but bigger diameter bolts and the block needs redrilling and tapping. I did buy a set and was considering using them as the somwhat custom ARP set up was going to cost me $500 plus just to see if itād work. Iāve not counted how many in the V6 set but if there is enough for two engines you arer welcome to the other half at cost plust postage.
Hhhhmmmm okā¦ Cheers for the info dudeā¦ Unless someone has one sitting on the bench and can give me some measurements I might have to pull one out of the engine so I can suss it outā¦
Iāve just always upgraded my headstuds in my cars once Iāve started running big boost through them so I figured if there were some stronger ones off the shelf I could chuck those in whilst the engine is on the stand and itās right thereā¦
you can go on the ARP site and take the measurements they ask for. I used some studs in my engine but Iām using the 12V SINGLE cam head; so the replacement stud I used would work out too tall for the EJ twin cam head. Youāre gonna need the right length studs as there are two bolts below the cams
The issue is not finding and ARP stud. I spoke to someone at ARP directly and had some sent. They couldnāt send me just one internal wrench nut, I would need to buy a set and at the time these were not cheap. There is not room for a socket to go on a hex nut.
The head bolts are very short and of couse that means not so much bolt wind up. Timās blue car (EFIMira - please donāt refer to it as the Secret Mira when talking to me about it. There was a running joke he and I had going for a while about a secret location for the reshell and a mystery spray painter [which was my place and I am the spray painter]) had 150hp at the wheels. For short periods it ran 180hp on E85. This was all on a standard long motor that had not been pulled down - so no internal mods but low kilometers on them. The 997cc Sirion I bought had a blown head gasket but 250 000 plus km on it and same for the other couple with blown headgaskets, high millage.
I would like to find the right ARP solution, but I am not going to pioneer this. So please have a go and let me know the specifics.
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The spline nuts that ARP supply will work. The studs from the 16 16 4age are the same pitch but theyāre too long. I took it on myself to cut them and rethread the head area to work. Bolted up but didnāt hold pressure as I later found out that ARP has a hot rolling process for their threads AND the studs werenāt thick enough for the threading to be cut it in (dick machinist never pointed that out to me)
If time serves next week I do up the measurements from the chart they gave me and Iāll see what they have that might work. Must can match a set of main studs that car work. The real issue will be those studs under the intake and exhaust cam sprokets
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@FortisD I could not get a tube socket on the splined nutsfor the ej-de. Once the nut goes on you cannot get a socket on due to the upper casting and a crowsfoot ring spanner wonāt go either. Not enough āmeatā on the socket to machine off. Do you remove material from the head so things fit?
So hereās a pic looking down into the hole one of the studs comes up through. To get tube socket in there, even if it was turned down to the min in a lathe, youād have to bore the top hole out a couple of millimetres in diameter.
Yeah, you canāt get replace a thread from by rolling with one made by cutting and expect the same strength.
@evilhighway i did try the head studs in the EJ.
@Mr_Gormsby Iām gonna check back the head I used,.i think i did grind the intake cam area to get clearance, the other areas I had no problem.Will check back and let u know
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So a very minor updateā¦ Decided to try and finish up the clutch today. Pulled the old one off and immediately I noticed that the new one wasnāt going to fitā¦ Fortunately I only paid 50 bucks for this one but the seller assured me it would fit so here I amā¦
Top one is the original clutch I took off the engine, bottom is the one thatās supposed to fit
So yeah thatās it for now, will have to look into finding a clutch that csn deal with the power Iām going to run so will need to do some research thereā¦
Peace!!!
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Small clutch is for flywheels/gearboxes that came with ED or EF engined cars. Large one is for EJ-DE factory set ups. EF and ED flyweels are easier to lighten and a clutch/pressure plate set up can be found in aftermarket/custom in small diameter to handle 300hp. Bigger diameter could be made up to handle more power again but with more rotating mass.
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Wait really? The small clutch in the photo came off an ej that had the ej box mounted to itā¦ Are you saying the larger one will work? My googling seems to tell me itās from a k3
If it is an ej clutch and your using the srion gearbox then it should but if your using an L200 gearbox then I believe there is an issue with the pressure plate being to big and not being able to fit over the L200 housing properly.