Plastic on spring ends for one 360deg rev often to stop noise. Think noise, vibration and harmonics.
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Cheers @Mr_Gormsby that makes sense and the coilover has it at both ends, so effectively a sound dampening.
Finally getting some clear weather and the ground has dried out and yesterday I get fever with blocked nose and body aches, Summer Flu smashing me and the last thing I want to do is crawl around a vehicle with body achesā¦another day or two delay.
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Still struggling with this flu but I think I am coming through to the other side - around 14hours of sleep last night and feeling slightly better than p00p, so hopefully get onto this soonish.
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I just want to clarify what you mean here. Full slow in the back means to make if softer and full fast in the front means to make that harder?!? For example, with 30 being softest and 0 being hardest to wind full soft on the rear and full hard on the front?!?
As noted here; BC Racing coilovers damping adjustment recommendations |
I have it harder in the front. That is also the consensus on the Lexus forum for my IS-F. I have BC coils on the Lexus too. I do find the ride to be pretty good with harder setting in the front. 0 being hard, 30 being soft. I currently have 15 front, 20 rear. I find this to be a good setting for every day driving. Not too harsh, not too soft. I have an AWD. Like others have said, play around with it. I suggest trying these 3 settings and make the detail adjustments based on your liking: 5 front & rear, 15 front & rear, 25 front & rear.
No sort of the other way around. Full slow on the rear means the damper will return more slowly or more firmly restrict the speed of a springās return. It may feel more harsh, but is not harder as springs are āharder or softerā. A harder spring needs more force to stop it racing back from compressed to free state. As well as that slowing the spring down will take some grip away. To a point a faster front spring gives more grip by letting the tires track the ground. Thier is a sweet spot and my suggestions are a place to start that should reduce understeer. With a starting point do so testing one or two clicks at a time and one end only. Test and change until spot on.
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There is a decent discussion on this over here;
It is getting late and my brain (already partially flu addled) is starting to turn into mush - will review this in the morning, it expands on the points you are making.
One thing BC Racing do get wrong is the notion that you may want squat in drag racing. If squat for grip is needed something else is wrong. All top cars hook with zero squat. The time taken to go from static height to the squat position is time a car is not moving forward and accounts for slow times.
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So because my car is FWD I may want to consider it slightly harder on the front compared to rear to account for the inherent understeer?
https://www.stanceduk.com/blogs/news/bc-racing-suspension-the-coilover-system-for-street-track-use
For example, stiffening the rear dampers relative to the front begins to set up the car towards oversteer. Perfect for reducing inherent front wheel driver understeer, allowing the rear to break away easier for drifting and allowing weight to move forward to hook up a front wheel drive drag car.
No. āHardā will reduce grip and make it understeer more. The end which you want to grip better needs to able to let the tires follow the road surface. The end that is relatively softer will/should have more grip.
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Makes sense.
I went through the motions today and had a good look around before I start in a couple of days. I tried to do a comparison shot between the different calipers (current Cuore compared to the Sirion unit) but it was hard to get something meaningful but at least I got some āpre-projectā shots and will start on Monday if the flu pisses off (almost gone) and the weather holds out.
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So any plans for today where dashed as it pissed down again last night in Brisbane.
If any are interested I was hunting a brake bleeding hose, when checking out SCA and other hardware/auto stores they had products from $10+ that were either nothing like I wanted and or to short. Clark Rubber has food grade clear vinyl tubes across a range of sizes from $1.20/M so today I bought; 5mm x 1m = $1.70 and 6mm x 1m = $2.20, total $3.90. I tried the 5mm on the Sirion Caliper nipple and it was going to be very tight but I would get it on with effort maybe even heating up, tried the 6mm and wiggled it on with ease but it was still a nice tight seal and enough to be air tight. I bought both tubes as they were so cheap and save me having to go back because any were under/over sized; https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/products/589p-clear-vinyl-tubing-cvt-food-grade?variant=30920642953270
Another tip you can dispose of old brake fluid with any used oil:
I then take my full containers to SCA for proper disposal.
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Great Journey Bald Eagle.
I too are looking to upgrade my front brakes on the L700. I have the mark 1, prefacelift, 14 inch GTVi wheels. Does anyone know from experience or seen if the Copen brakes will fit under those?
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nope they wont, 15" is required for copen brakes.
But gtvi brakes are plenty of stopping power.
I have copen brakes and run 13ā wheels. Offset and design definitely play a role but 14ā wheels should fit with ease
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I run 14" et35 bmw e30 rims and the gtvi calipers just fit, i cant think any bigger would fit.
From an earlier post of mine I had noted;
I assume that 4" space is to account for the caliper.
If we consider that the Copen has a 246mm rotor when we select that in this look up;
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on/demandware.store/Sites-supercheap-au-Site/en_AU/PartsGuide-Show
1"=2.54cm, thus 24.6cm/2.54 = 9.68" so in theory they should readily fit on 14".
Here is a more concise technical method;
If you used the ruler method they outlined you will get a decent idea but all you need to do is ask James;
@applegeek897 is running 14" rims on his build and has Copen calipers;
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Iāve seen James L700 with the copen brakes and 14ās but Iām concerned his wheels have more āxfactorā than the factory gtvi wheels. Might just stick with the Sirion jobs.
Read the technical guides I posted above but more importantly ask James. Otherwise consider the factors of āvented and slotted rotorsā and a decent pad to improve your potential, the braided brake lines might be a bit of overkill but for me it was a matter of I am changing everything else so letās do it properly and arguably for the rest of the cars life.
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Iām just seeing if anyone had fitted the Copenās under the Gtviās wheels. Too old to be the pioneer these days. But I understand what youāre saying BoldEagle 