All I’ve know from others is you need 14’s to clear, with my design and size they JUST fit.
I assume at worse case you could add some spacers to step the rim out slightly.
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Yeah figured yours are 35 offset and these are 40, so probably not a great idea for me. I’ll just do the the Sirion bits. Just got some NS2R’s so I’m super excited
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Fairly good road tire. Great value. I only had the 180tw. Bit ordinary for comp and did one khanacross and one hillclimb.
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That is something I will be asking soon - What are the best road tires I could get for my current 13" unless I find some reasonably priced 14" rims to swap over?
The recently purchased (limited choices were offered at the time) ‘Continental ContiEcoContact 155/65R13’ are utterly terrible and I am getting wheel spins at traffic lights without effort and car will start skidding/sliding in the wet with moderate braking and I have to lift foot and apply again even softer to get grip. These are a LOT worse than the ‘Kumho KH17 155/65R13’ which were swapped to the rear (they were on the front until the new tyres were bought) that were bought in Mar 2017. I would really like suggestions for some all rounders (wet/dry) for the front or maybe all round.
Things have been moving slowly with the project due to flu, bloody weather or the women in my life (the wife and visitors) but I am locked in now as I have made a booking for the wheel alignment with"Accurate Suspension Services" after advice from @Mr_Gormsby in another thread; http://www.accuratesuspension.com.au/
They do look like the ‘proper’ place to go and quoted what the other joints did, thanks for that suggestion.
BOM is indicating 10% chance of rain on Sunday or Monday so I have a decent two days window to get stuck into it.
Wheelspin can also be a weight transfer issue if the frt is too stiff.
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This is with the old suspension kit still in and I am sure the Kumho tyres were nowhere near this bad.
When you’re shopping for tyres pay attention to the treadwear number, the lower the number the softer the tyre. If you’re interested in grippy road tyres you could try something from Nankang (the ns2r or ar1), or you can try the semis from Westlake, I think they’re called Sport ST or something (we used to use them a lot back in the day, very grippy road tyres). If you’re not interested in semis for everyday use look for some normal tyres with a treadwear rating less than 250. The Contiecocontact are really economical tyres, as the name suggests. If you wanna stick with Continental you could try the Sport Contact?
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The were the best the mechanic could get at that time (so he said) - I don’t care on which brand I just want some improved grip for the daily road use - thanks for the tips will start looking at those brands and assess the costs. I think the problem can be those 13" rims as it really limits choices?
The Nankang NS2R’s come in your 13" sizing.
65 profile 13" diam 155/65R13 73H (120) 4.5" nom rim width
As earlier said - decent road tyre, can handle some minor track work without being complete rubbish
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You champion - I was reviewing the NS2 and getting confused;
So it’s the NS2R that are suitable - thank you. @TPG I am having a bugger of a time trying to find these and have just sent an email to the Nankang rep for QLD asking them to search their database for sellers. Aren’t the NS-2R semi slicks going to be average performers in the wet but stand out in the dry? I have also found this set by Nankang which grabbed my interest;
65 Series
65 13" 155/65R13 73S 4.5" 532 137 J4380
Also with tires I enquire on date of manufacture. Esp for the Nitto nt01 or Nankang AR1 that I use. I won’t accept tires more than a year old for main comp. 18mths for Rd tires and 4-5yrs they are past shelf life or road life. Having said all that I do have a really old set of semi slicks for test and tune days where I am doing demo runs or non handling testing. Ran last week and on old tires for 5th outright and 3sec down on first whereas I am normally first through third with time separations between the top three at the end of the day being 0.5sec. Now to find a tire age look for an impression with four digits. The first two digits are week of the year. The second two are year of manufacture. So 2019 would mean a tire came out of the mold on the 20th week in 2019. 0121 would be a tire from January this year, essentially four to eight week old rubber. Keep race tires cool and in the dark. They deteriate with use, esp heat cycles. None of us know as much about tires as we should. There is a massive amount to understand.
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no NS2R’s in the country in 13" from what i have been told recently, waiting on 175/50x13’s for mine
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Hopefully have a chat with a QLD rep on Monday to get some detail, the website (.au) is indicating they exist;
If that is a piss poor response will assess a direct import.
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I have been through this with them. Never any NS2R in 13" in Aus. Went to 195/50/15.
And that is the fundamental of my question - new rims (or 2nd hand) or try this cryptic search.
I bought new rota 15x7. Much work to make all fit and have full travel while being lowered 6"
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Got a start today but didn’t get outside till about 10AM get everything outside and then set-up took another 20mins and then I was out there in ‘full sun’ (~30-31C 47% humidity) till about 13:15 and had to call it as I was getting head spins and dumping copious amounts of sweat (still are right now) and had put 2-3L of water through me.
Only got the driver side done (front coilover, caliper, pads, rotor, brake line) as I was having to take a break every 20-30mins and get out of the sun, buggers had used a loctite on the calipers and was struggling to break that seal for a while and it wasn’t until I turned the steering to hard lock I could finally get a good angle and get them off.
I had to call it as I was going to get heat stress if I tried to persist and was fading quickly even after having a berroca at 10AM. I will get an early start at about 6AM tomorrow and at least I have all the parts and tools in the back of the car for easier access. The first one is always the hardest as you figure things out and develop a clear method. Will post some pics soon just trying to recharge now.
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Dixcel pads vs old Sirion pads;
Caliper with new pads and HEL brake line - it made sense to fit pads and line before trying to mount the caliper. I am not sure whether it was the zinc plating or the old loctiite on the bolts but after trying for 5mins to mount the calipers I had to take them off and work the bolts through caliper mounting holes ‘back and forth’ to get them to start to thread as expected - it was these sorts of teething problems that made today’s effort drag out longer than it should;
Old front shock vs new;
Being a bit of a dumbass I tried to lift the front steering knuckle up to the new shock asking the missus to slide the bolt in. After great frustration of her not getting what we were trying to do and or not being able to see if it was aligning I simply grabbed the jack with a block of timber, jacked it into place and slid the top bolt home, got the nut on, dropped the jack and then wriggled it around a bit to get the bottom home. New shocker, caliper, rotor, pads and line mounted;
New caliper assembly vs old;
New DBA495S T2 rotor (234mm) vs old (211mm) it is an impressive difference, the old rotor was still in good nick without any scratches/grooves, etc;
I didn’t get as much done as I hoped but I still got the hard part done (drivers side) and figured out many teething issues along the way. @applegeek897 thanks for the inspiration James on some of the parts selection to make this project meaningful with quality outcomes.
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It’s a good start mate. Keep at it!
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