Dale's L60 Handivan

Good to see it going! Does it have a 4 speed box?

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Actually I have a late L60 5 speed box.
I was just reading one of your posts about soldering and drilling jets earlier today, I didn’t know it was this easy so tomorrow I will have a go.

I got the tyres fitted to two of my freshly ceramic coated wheels

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Thats always good having the extra gear! How are the ratios? You can always play with tyre sizing.

Yes! As long as you are using a air fuel ratio gauge. I ended up buying a drill bit set from fhe Weber carby website. Just make sure that you use a bigger drill bit to make a pilot hole. You want the fuel delivery through the jets to be smooth. It makes all of the difference. Good luck!

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I have an AEM wideband in the dash. I figured that only one end needs to be soldered and not the whole way through. Is the purpose of the pilot hole to minimise the soldered section to thin as possible?

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Assist with keeping the hole central but also
If you imagine the flow through a cone shape compared to a flat surface and a drilled hole. The cone shape will always flow more efficiently

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The 5 speed box is much better than the 4 speed, unlike the Mira the Handivan 5th gear is overdrive. In 4th 100 km/h the engine revs at 5000 rpm, in 5th that drops to 4000 rpm.

I got a pretty good size on the primary now but I need some finer drill bits, its currently at 0.90 mm but the next size up is 0.95 and it was at 1.00 to begin with. I would like to find some that go up in 0.01 mm increments so I can really fine tune it.
The secondary needs to go smaller. It was 1.75 mm and I went down to 1.3 mm, I feel like it could go down to 1.2 or 1.25. The afr is 10.3 at the lowest with WOT but varies near 11 or 12 with partial secondary throttle.

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Been playing with posca paint pens

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I would try 1.0 for secondaires and see where that goes. If you getting around 11 to 12 on partial you have a bit to play with considering 14.7 is stoich and you are N/A which is a little more forgiving.

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At sea level and cold night air the mixtures are at 13.5 to 14.5
I was already thinking of going larger by 0.05 on the main jet
If I start the secondary at 1.0 I can always go bigger.

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Soldering and drilling the secondary jet 1.0 mm was right on the money. WOT is bang on 12.8 and cruising at high 13 to 14.8

I might make a slightly more restricted air box though, I have very little control over my right foot.
Before I do that though I have topped off the fuel tank again with another 15 litres (three quarters of a tank) and recorded my odometer reading. Time to work out the litres per 100 km, all I know is I have done a lot more driving since registering this car. Unlike Colan this really is my favourite car to drive.

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I’m fairly good at guess work with no actual written math’s. hahaha!.

I recently did an aptitude test and was lazy and worked out a rough guess of the answers for a couple of question’s. I remembered the questions and the answer’s I gave and later looked up the answer’s to see how I did. Turns out I’m pretty good at rough guessing lol.

According to ChatGPT Engine Tune I should drill the secondary jet out to 1.02 mm to drop the cruise afr to 13.1:1 to make it safe, without changing the ignition timing. The difference in jet size is 3.8 percent tuel flow.

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Also a great fix for Daihatsu wipers and higher speed is Rain-X or similar. When is bucketing down and I’m doing highway speed I don’t need the wipers as the water just beads off the windscreen.
I might do all the glass now.

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Which Rain -X did you use? I used one years ago that was brilliant and now I can’t work out which one it was and I have tried a few different ones.

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HOT HOT HOT :slight_smile: :smiley:

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I found the right air cleaner box, and naturally I have ceramic coated it with options.

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very sexy that will look great in the engine bay.

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Unfortunately they don’t fit Toyota 4k carburetor

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