Took the dash out today… Even under there, all over the loom and inside the heater box there is mold.
I cleaned up a little but quickly lost motivation. Mostly because i need to clean inside the heater box, but i don’t want to take it out and take it apart. So if anyone knows a way to properly clean inside there without taking it apart please let me know.
I don’t know why but i decided to remove the spark plugs. And it’s a good thing i did.
Cause it reminded me of the leaking spark plug tube seals. But most importantly i noticed the wrong spark plugs were used. They were even playing a game of tag with the pistons.
Luckily there doesn’t seem to be any damage. It might explain a few minor issues though.
It’s a good reason to make sure you buy the correct plugs and to service a car right away after buying it.
There were a lot of things done to her over the years and a lot of it was done poorly. Mostly because of the lack of spare parts most likely. But she’s in good hands now.
Been at it again today. Took out the A/C and heater box for some deep cleaning.
I’m trying to leave in as much as possible, but it’s getting pretty hard with all the yuck i’m finding.
The more i take her apart the more i find that needs work.
The SRS module was quite lucky. Only it’s feet got wet sometime in the past.
I’m not sure what it was exactly, but i think it was either coffee or cola. Whatever it is/was, it got pretty much everywhere.
Unfortunately it also got inside the fuse box and a whole bunch of connectors. Good thing i have multiple wiring looms for (EUDM) L7’s that i can use as donor for connector housings. Unfortunately i might have to order some terminals as some of them i can’t get clean.
Hopefully the fuse box of a EUDM L7 is the same as a JDM L7 Gino.
The black crud isn’t charred plastic, it’s the dried up drink that was spilled. The browning of the housing might be the drink but it might also be from heat. Again… Good thing i have donor looms. In moments like this i’m happy i’m a parts hoarder.
One thing is for sure… As long as i own this car, food and drinks won’t be coming near it ever.
Admittedly i haven’t been the cleanest with my previous cars. But after all this… Never again!!!
Done some cleaning and rebuilding this week.
Started of with the fuse box. I found 3 in my stash of parts.
The Move fuse box looks the same in every way. However… After opening one up from the EUDM L7 fuse boxes i noticed they’re all the same. Maybe the chime is programmed differently, but i doubt it.
Top 2 are EUDM L7 fuse boxes, the third is from a EUDM Move, the last one (or half of it )is from a JDM L7 Gino.
Here are the 3 different levels i was talking about in my last post. You can also see the crud that got inside, i’m pretty sure it has caused issues in the past and would have been in the future.
Me being me, i replaced the necessary pieces instead of completely replacing it. I don’t know why i didn’t just replace the whole thing.
At least i’ll know for sure it’s in great shape inside now.
After the fuse box i started on the heater box. Took it completely apart and cleaned it thoroughly.
While i was in there i decided to replace the foam on the temp control flap. Cause the old stuff was falling off just by looking at it.
Planning on putting all of it back in this weekend. Hopefully the dash can go back in as well.
I really need to get her registered quick! Cause there’s a different restauration project that needs to get started before it’s too late.
Did a bunch more cleaning inside the Gino, but also reinstalled the heating system, fuse box and dashboard.
She’s finally starting to look whole again. Unfortunately i really need a new carpet. The original one has a few unwanted holes and is worn in the drivers side footwell. It’s also extremely disgusting.
I’m thinking about going to the UK soon(ish) to find a good or at least decent carpet.
As long as the carpet is still out i’ll tackle the surface rust. I’m going to wirewheel the rust away and primer and paint it. That should be plenty for the interior. For the underside i’ll do the same plus i’ll coat it in bodyshoot or undercoating or something similar.
First little bit is already brushed and primered.
Going to de-rust the rest of the interior tomorrow. To save a bit of money and to use up some of the paint i still have… i’m going to use a very special color.
The interior is as good as done. Still looking for a new carpet.
I think i’m going to clean the old one for now just so that i can put the interior completely back together.
This is easily my favorite color. Since my other Gino ( the ‘‘classic’’ Cuore) needs a new paintjob i’m considering repainting it in midnight purple. But we’ll see when it comes to it.
Yesterday i decided that instead of spending way too much time wire wheeling the underside, i’m going to sandblast it. Someone i know very well has a mobile sandblaster i can borrow. All that’s left is finding a compressor to use and buying some blasting media.
To sandblast the underside i need everything off. So the complete suspension and engine need to come out. While the engine is out i’ll fix all the leaks on the engine (and transmission?) and probably get the subframe powdercoated as it is a bit too rusty for my liking.
Started disassembly. Only broke 2 bolts so far.
Next week i hope to have the engine and suspension out.
Goed bezig…
Looking great so far. And yep, there’s the Dasty!
What engine code is in there and how do you know which spark plugs should be used?
Keep up the good job.
Past Saturday i decided start on disconnecting the engine in order to remove it.
But after blinking a few times the engine was already out. Sometimes i forget how easy L7’s are.
Since the engine came out so quick i started taking apart the engine bay for a good de-rusting and a clean. The engine will soon go on a stand in order to replace most seals, o-rings and gaskets. While the engine is on a stand the subframe will go to the powdercoater possibly along with some other bits.
And once i’m done with the engine bay it’ll get a respray. As i’m not patient enough to try achieve a factory look plus i like the look of a properly sprayed bay, so i’ll do a proper respray of the engine bay before the engine goes back in.
Also found out the booster is f***ed. A new one is about 360,- (EUR). So i’ll be looking for a replacement from the UK (planning to make a trip there soon again anyway). If i can’t find a decent one then i’ll mount a LHD booster and make a custom pipe.
I’m not sure yet if i’m going to rebuild the master cylinder or get another. Knowing myself i’ll probably rebuild it.
On a positive note…
I might have found the source of the power steering fluid leak that started after the last event i took the Gino to.
The o-ring on this little pipe seems to have given up the ghost. So that’ll be a lot cheaper and easier fix than expected.
Talking about power steering…
While everything is out, i’ll replace the original power steering rack for one of a Copen cause i happen to have one laying around.
And at the end of the day this is how she stands (for now).
[quote=“Aaron, post:28, topic:6308”]…If i can’t find a decent one then i’ll mount a LHD booster and make a custom pipe…
…I’m not sure yet if i’m going to rebuild the master cylinder or get another. Knowing myself i’ll probably rebuild it…[/quote]Why should a booster from a LHD be different from that of a RHD? If there truly is a difference, it would only differ at the vaccuum connection.
If the master cylinder isn’t yet leaking, I wouldn’t do a thing, except to renew the fluid, because of the cylinder bore’s coating which is there to protect the aluminium casting. Daihatsu doesen’t recommend rebuilding, because of this.
Do you plan on keeping the gearbox automatic or is a manual one in the planning?
As far as i know the only difference between the boosters is the vacuum connection. I’d love to keep things like that as original as possible (for several reasons).
The master cylinder seems to have already leaked looking at all that crusty stuff behind it.
I haven’t checked yet but I assume LHD and RHD master cylinders are mirrored or different in some way.
So I’m going to give rebuilding a shot anyway. It’s probably just the seals that are leaking, so hopefully i won’t have to worry about the coating on the bore.
I’m pretty confident it will work as I’ve rebuild a lot of brake system components (with 100% succes rate. So far… ).
I’ll probably keep it auto. As the Gino will probably a good weather/weekend car. And i like to relax a bit when I’m driving it.
My other Gino (the “classic”) is already a manual and i like it. But traffic here really sucks and driving a manual here can drive me very crazy quite often. So much so even that I’m considering changing that one to a auto sometimes.
[quote=“Aaron, post:30, topic:6308”]…I assume LHD and RHD master cylinders are mirrored or different in some way…[/quote]Yes, they’re definitely mirrored[quote=“Aaron, post:30, topic:6308”]…hopefully i won’t have to worry about the coating on the bore…[/quote]I’ve read that using DOT 4 fluid could destroy the cylinder’s seals, given that DOT 3 is mandated for use. At least, my owner’s manual pertaining to my L601 calls for this. In which case, if only the seals are defective, you could simply replace them, without scratching the cylinder’s bore, through abrasive cylinder hone use[quote=“Aaron, post:30, topic:6308”]…I’m considering changing that one to a auto sometimes…[/quote]That’s a very good idea, given that Daihatsu gearboxes are long-legged, likely the result of attempting to save production costs of adding a direly-needed 6th gear. I have an automatic in my L601 and would never go back to a manual again.
There is also the possibility of modifying these automatics, through replacing their torque converters with dual-pitch types, higher stall speed types or even lock-up converters. The only complaint that I have with mine is what they call “creeping” which is when the vehicle keeps wanting to move forward, while braking for a stop light, for example. You do not get this problem with a dual-pitch, because the converter automatically shifts downwards. Fuel economy is also improved, as well as drag strip times. In effect, what you end up with, using a dual pitch converter, is essentially a six-speed automatic, without noticing the converter shifting.
While approaching a stop light, I simply move the shift lever into N (Neutral). But, as soon as possible, I would like to modify the transmission to the point where doing this will no longer be necessary. It’s only a matter of identifying which Japanese brand uses such a system, so that these converters could be swapped, assuming that Daihatsu automatics are manufacture by AISIN
Unfortunately i don’t know which dot brake fluid they used and we’ll never know. I might pick it up this week and open it up to inspect the damage.
The dual pitch stuff sounds great. But i’m not sure it’s worth it.
Cause i don’t mind the creeping, i’m used to it plus it never really bothered me.
The Gino is a 4 speed from factory. So it should already be better than the 3 speed that most came with.
If i auto swap the other one i’ll put a 4 speed in it as well.
Oh, okay. I forgot that there was later production of a 4-speed. I had a chance to test-drive a later Cuore for a Swiss member of a Daihatsu forum. This was a good transmission and moved the Cuore quite quick. The only issue we had about buying the car was that the transmission would upshift to second gear, without shifting it to second. In other words, it wouldn’t stay in 1st gear. We didn’t know if it was a normal feature or not.
The 4-speed should bolt in place of my 3-speed? But, I’m guessing that the 4-speeds are highly dependent on their matching vehicle’s board computer for successfull operation. Therefore, an EJ would be a minimum requirement, because both fuel injection and ignition are controlled together with one another, on those.
As far as identifying which brake fluid is required for your vehicle, a good auto parts store has such information stored in their data bank. Another clue would be to identify which fluid type any other Daihatsu of that manufacture year would use, given that there would be absolutely no reason for producing one model line different from another, concerning braking systems. The added expense of doing so would make absolutely no economic sense
The grestest part about the EJ automatic transmissions is that they’re fully mechanical. The only thing electrical about it is the position switch for the cluster and reverse light.
There’s nothing to worry about when swapping from a 3 speed to a 4 speed.
Not upshifting to second might be a internal problem. I once had a G11 with a daimatic (2 speed automatic). It would very rarely shift most of the time it would stay in second gear.
Luckily in my Japanese workshop manual it states to use dot 3.
Cause i don’t trust auto parts stores at all. I’ve had too many issue’s with their information beeing wrong.
One of the worst was when a bmw 1 series came in for a oil change and we used the oil they recommended. It started up and soon after died. Tried to start it again… no compression at all. It tooks us weeks before we figured out the oil was way too thick.
Because it was too thick the lifters stayed in their fully extended position which kept the valves open enough to lose too much compression to run.
That’s part of the reason i run only 5w30 in my EJ’s. They run a lot better on them and even consume much less oil. A proper brand of oil also helps a lot against oil consumption.
The Daimatic was likely a very simple unit, based on early American patents. If so, shifting was regulated by a sort of fully-adjustable “kick-down” mechanism, connected to the throttle linkage.
That’s good to know that even the four-speed automatic isn’t wired-in to any other peripheral dependent. I can imagine that this update also solved much of the creeping problem, inherend of the previous patent. The four-speed better administrated the EJs and up, because these later engines developed peak torque at higher r.p.m.s, unlike the EDs of which, through basic laws of physics, were not lacking in lower end torque, rendering an additional gear unnecessary. Still, you’ve got me interested in being perhaps the first Daihatsu owner to connect a four-speed automatic to an ED. I’ll have to size up each automatic, side by side, in order to see if it’ll be mostly a Plug & Play swap or not.
At present, My 601 is waiting for its replacement cylinder head. Meanwhile, the Suzuki Wagon R wide that fetches my 601’s parts shifts balky, needing new synchronizer rings. Instead of wasting my time with that, the automatic transmissions for those are all four-speeds of which are shifted through solenoids, making it difficult to buy a used one from a breaker’s yard, because few mechanics know (or even care, for that matter) that cleansing the throttle body’s solenoids will solve the eventual shifting problems with these of which are mainly caused by challenging transmission use and ignored maintenance schedules. Nobody at the Suzuki forum seems to know if these transmissions will interchange with even other Suzuki models. I’m likely to get more knowledge here. But, that’s an issue for another thread.
Here, we have an automatic, obviously connected to an EJ and one connected to my ED. Slight differences are to be seen, between both. Ignoring the arrows pointing to the ED’s mounting bolts, each other arrow point to an electrical switch used on the EJ’s and a vaccuum-oprated switch for the ED’s. The EJ’s fluid sump appears to be notably larger. The EJ’s casting is also a bit different, showing a sharper horizontal rib. Given that Daihatsu is known for only performing absolutely necessary production changes, it may even be possible that this EJ’s automatic could be a four-speed?
In any event, thorough cleansing of the ED’s transmission is planned, before further detailed photographs will be taken
They do look very similar. As both are E-series engines i’m sure it’s a bolt on swap. If ever you need help with it in any way, just let me know.
I might be able to help you with the Suzuki transmission as well. I know a wrecker with lots of Suzuki’s with (usually) reasonable prices. Especially for me.
Many thanks for the offer.
There was an interpretation error in my previous post. Both fluid pans pictured are identical. the subframe was blocking one side of the pan, creating an optical illusion
[quote=“Aaron, post:28, topic:6308”]…Also found out the booster is f***ed…[/quote]Why exactly? Was the pedal effort unusually high or is the corrosion seen in one of your posted images causing concern? From here, this appears to be normal electrolytic corrosion typical of where steel meets aluminium. It may only be a matter of cleansing and thereafter applying some sort of grase or oil which will not erode any rubber seal
There has been a vacuum issue ever since i got the car tried all sorts of things. But i could never really pinpoint the exact problem. This may have been the problem all along.
The reason I say it’s bad is because brake fluid has been leaking and caused this corrosion. And I’m confident it has gotten inside it. And once it’s inside it’s game over.
So i might take it apart and have a little look inside.
Yesterday i took the master cylinder apart. It’s obvious where it has been leaking.
The o-ring looks a bit damaged and is definitely in there crooked. The brake fluid also seems to be crystallised in the groove and the aluminium has been eaten away by something.
I could make a new one, but i have 3 or 4 LHD master cylinders. So one of them will become a donor.
Luckily the cylinder bore looks to be in perfect condition.
You could re-use that ring, if its sealing surface is still sound. That material loss appears to be the result of aluminium molecules depositing onto the booster’s sheetmetal surface[quote=“Aaron, post:38, topic:6308”]…-There has been a vacuum issue ever since i got the car tried all sorts of things. But i could never really pinpoint the exact problem…[/quote]That would be easy enough to test, simply through removing the booster’s vaccuum hose and plugging it. If there is a notable difference in idling speed, you can be assured that the booster’s diaphragm has been perforated. Once these diaphragms become perforated, vaccuum will start being applied to the master cylinder, sucking through brake fluid, when the master cylinder’s seal starts weakening through biological aging.
There are shops who could rebuild vaccuum boosters. I just don’t know off-hand where they’re located
So i’ll be looking for a replacement from the UK (planning to make a trip there soon again anyway). If i can’t find a decent one then i’ll mount a LHD booster and make a custom pipe.
