Update: Just picked up the car from the port last week.
It’s both better and worse than I expected. Has some rust that was poorly painted over on the door. The port itself was interesting, a lot of cool cars going both ways. Drove fine for the 4+hr drive back.
Have finally cleaned it inside and out, installed a boost gauge and a 3D printed pod where the clock used to be. Really a huge pain trying to find existing spots through the firewall, managed to clearance the grommet for the HVAC drain line and route the vac line for the boost gauge through there. Used the triple junction on the firewall to tap the vac line, gauge pulls vac at idle and shows 11ish PSI under boost.
My problem is now finding basic maintenance parts in the states or somewhere that is able to ship to the US. Think I was able to located a few matching P/N oil filters at a Toyota dealer in Atlanta, but I am not having much luck finding a replacement serpentine belt, or front end suspension bushings. It also feels like I will need outer tie rod ends as well from the steering feel. Also need to find control arms or just the bushings, as well as brake pads. Seems to pull slightly under hard braking. The timing belt interval is marked at being done at 91K, and the car is at 124K, but I still feel like I should try to source a water pump and timing belt kit for it.
Also, stereo wiring looks like it’s going to be interesting, everything was removed and left with an open double-din size space. Have a double-din headunit for it, but not even sure how I’m going to mount or install it, it seems slightly mangled.
Fun car, I see why you all love them on this site now.
Depends on the wheel offset. I briefly tried 185/60/13 and they rubbed quite badly on my L200. 175/55/13 on a plus 38 or plus 35 13x5.5" worked well. The diameter more so than the width was the problem.
Have gotten around to doing basic maintenance, finally was able to get JDM plugs here in the US, glad I did.
Have an oil filter as well…but I can’t figure out HOW to get at the filter on the L200S?? The L500S has an access port towards the driver’s side in the front bumper covered by the license plate, but the L200S does not have this. The filter seems to be directly
underneath the turbocharger, with some obstructions below it, any tips or quick ways to get at it that I’m missing, or does the bumper have to come off? Pretty sure I’m just missing something obvious.
Finally titled and registered/insured it, now road legal! Drives well even at 80+MPH, had it up past 94MPH so I’m assuming the 86MPH limiter has been removed??
The oilfter’s on turbo models are in a terrible location. You might be best taking the front bumper off. It should be maybe 4 -6 bolts and the clip’s on the radiator support. (any wires that need unplugging too). A mira is much less of a hassle than a copen to get the front bumper off.
Well done on getting it titled and on the road driving.
Yeah figured that was the case, thanks for confirming. Might look into those JDM bumper straps on the sides to make it easier, think I can get them color matched in white as well.
Some more, got it inspected today, not sure what it’s called elsewhere (MOT?) basically, roadworthiness inspection.
In queensland and Victoria in Australia, it is a RWC (roadworthy certificate) the UK is a MOT I think. NSW is Australia is just dreadful for rego so I wont even start of that one lol. I really hope they don’t restrict rego for Kei cars in the US. That would be silly really.
I am slowly working my way through parts. Recently got my hands on serpentine belts, and tonight replaced the alternator belt, but will need to pull the bumper and wheel to get better access to the travel adjustment bolt for the AC compressor belt, just cut it off and left it for now since it’s not charged anyway.
However, when removing the air intake and tract, when I pulled the filter I found some oil around the filter seal:
First thought is oh shit, blowby, I have some shot piston rings. However, oil seems clean, no smoke out of the exhaust.
My next thought was the PCV valve is bad, does anyone have a part number for an L200S PCV valve?
Going to do a compression test this weekend when I pull the bumper for an oil change, if that checks out okay will do a leak down test and see how bad the rings are.
Any other possible things I should look at?
Also…working on this thing with big hands is a nightmare /
Im not too familiar with the stock turbo setup’s but for N/A it is very usual to get oil in the air filter’s. Does the vacuum hose/breather on the rocker cover go to the air filter on those or the intake manifold? One way you can possibly reduce it is to make the vaccum/breather outlet and hose on the rocker cover larger so the engine breathes better.
When I had my L600 with my franken setup I had to do that as when I took it out on track for 15min runs I had to empty my catch can each time as the pressure build up made it spew oil out the block breather that badly. After I made the top breather on the rocker cover bigger I never had the issue again. If its not much a simple catch can help also.
Oil there is pretty normal for a turbo car. But they have no valve as it is just a pipe from crank case to airbox. Also the stock BOV goes straight to the airbox also. Install a sealed catch can system on the crank case vent and it will help reduce that.
You know, I don’t know why this didn’t occur to me until you mentioned it, but I have an old catch can from one of my previous turbo Subarus, I’ll clean it out and install it, thanks for that.
Also, I’m curious what the stock boost levels are in these cars, I’m seeing around 12ish psi in 3rd gear. And is boost limited at all in first and second gears or when it’s cold?
Have also considered throwing a manual boost controller on it and upping it a few PSI, nothing crazy
Hmmm, I seem to be hitting only 10/11 psi actually, time to try and hunt down some boost/vac leaks. Should probably check the wastegate actuator and the turbo for shaft play as well.
Car is fine in 1st and 2nd, but as soon as I hit 3rd gear and mat it, seems to have some bad clutch slip around 4K. I am sourcing a replacement for it currently, but now I’m also thinking it could be a stretched clutch cable not releasing? Is there any way to roughly confirm this at all? I’m still going to order a clutch and replace the clutch as it’s cheapish, but want to also rule out a bad clutch cable so that I don’t roast the new one after it’s installed.
Edit: Also, unrelated the the clutch, the Mira seems to take much longer to crank after it’s been sitting for a day or two. Fires right up during usage and drive it around. Getting spark and air, I’m assuming I should start looking at fuel delivery? I’ve had cars with leaky injectors that took a few cranks to build up fuel pressure, wonder if I should also source a set of injectors, or is it possible to have the stock ones serviced back to working order without having to order a new set? Battery looks new, but I guess it could also be weak/have a slight drain when sitting causing slightly lower voltage and a longer crank condition?
Want to also appreciate everyone that’s chimed in with advice and helped me out, I very much appreciate it!
Sooooo…alt belt slipped off today and I’m assuming it drives the water pump. Drove for about 8 mins like that until I pulled in over and turned it off. Temp gauge didn’t get past the halfway mark, but it’s usually no higher than a 1/4 way. Cooled it off, put the old belt back on, idles perfect now. Idle was surging when it was hot but seems to have stopped now. Let it cool off for about an hour and then test drove it around for about 25mins with no issues. Still paranoid and going to check the coolant tomorrow for any oil remnants. Think I did any major damage to the head gaskets? I’m unsure how robust these cars are, but doesn’t it have an iron block and an aluminum head?
But I’m wondering what exactly this warning light is, is that the engine temp warning light?
Yay This means your cookies are finished baking in the oven. hahaha
now seriously that light is the sensor that is after the catalytic converter and is a heat temp sensor of your exhaust gasses. I am pretty sure. If you are worried about it you could replace it. I have run many mira’s without them and no issues whatsoever. So if your not worried then just take the bulb/globe out from the instrument cluster and it wont shine again.
The idle going up and down sounds like it is just an airbubble in the cooling system.
The best way I find to get rid of that is to get a funnel that fits perfect in the radiator then put your coolant in above the radiator line. Start the car, let it warm up and do 2 heat cycle’s and make sure you open the heater once warmed up so if there is any air pockets in there then they will come out too. After a couple of heat cycles you should be fine to stop the car, make a mess spilling coolant from the funnel or bottle everywhere and it should be good to go.
As for your alternator damn. but yeh I have broken them like that too. but at least its only a tiny bit of the housing ad they still work.
Pretty sure I’m just missing something obvious.
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