fix all the things the previous owner forgot to do along the way. (haha)
new engine mounts, all 4 of them
applause rear discs (completed)
purchase missing prices from the interior
fix a rust hole in the floor
a bit of sound proofing fun, daily after all
Mechanical
header back exhaust
intake
front sway bar (parts on the way)
some yellow speed coilovers
rear sway bar upgrade
rear swing arm upgrade (thinking of making them adjustable for toe in and out on the back (does the charade already have that adjustability?)
HDE 1.6 swap
That’s all I can think of. Sorry for the long post but keen to keep you guys updated.
A question though, turbo or hi comp 1.6? Don’t want anything crazy just a bit more fun. Already have the 1.6 and a 1.3 in the car so high comp wouldn’t be too hard but is it worth it or easier to make easy power with a turbo?
wow man that looks really clean nice score and well done on rear disc.
In my opinion the high comp would be the way I would go as turbo to H series engines sem to help break the gearbox’s easier
It is fairly tidy just in desperate need of some maintenance. Had a few broken handles, dirty under the bonnet, poorly serviced, the usual.
As for the engine, I’m thinking hi comp + ITBs would be amazing. Love that intake sound plus being such a light car it doesn’t need crazy power. Gonna drive it for a bit with the 1.3 and see how it goes while I’m building the 1.6. It’s a fairly young motor just needs a bit of an overhaul.
the original guy that started daiforum years ago actually had a quad throttle set up in his g200 sounded awesome but without a proper ecu couldn’t get it to run properly and used heaps of fuel. I think years later there is much more knowledge out there to be able to make it work better and even if you went with an aftermarket ecu there is many more cheaper options too.
Evil, the hope is to go the custom ECU setup once I figure out how to do the ITBs, I’ve heard people have had success with 4age ITBs but not sure.
JC050, I was just having a read of your build thread, shame about that damn gearbox. Haha. The weak gearboxes are one of the main reasons I want to try and avoid turbo, purely for the extra cost it provokes. But depends if my hunger for POWA is satisfied.
Any ideas how hard it would be to get a custom set of gears made, just out of curiosity?
Look up Tim Hart and Compact Motorsport on Facebook, Tim has made a set to suit 300hp in a GTti gearbox, but not sure if he has released any for sale yet though, won’t be cheap, expect $3-4k+ with freight.
As for the ITBs I have an a spare Detom manifold I was going to cut up and modify to mount some GSXR600 bodies onto. Heaps of guys in the UK have these types of setups on Peugeot 106’s., some of the best ones I have seen were made by Sandy Brown / Colin Satchell. The GSXR600 body is 38mm in dia. which is good match for a 1.6. ITB’s from the Silvertop 4AGE option (42mm) are another option, but avoid the Blacktop (45mm) as they are too big.
You will need bigger injectors and an aftermarket ECU. The stock ECU is setup to run on a MAP sensor, and ITB’s need a TPS to run properly.
Mokeman, thanks for the suggestion of contacting Tim. Been messaging him regarding some brakes actually after seeing his work on the cuore adapter’s. Not ready for gearsets yet, but good to know.
JC050, for that money you could swap a different engine altogether in there! But I’ll keep that price range in mind. As for those ITBs, sounds like you’ve got a bit of plan. Wouldn’t mind seeing how you go with them. The plan is to go for an aftermarket ecu and do the whole lot while I’m at it. Maybe I’ll take a page out of your book with the trigger wheel and coil packs?? What was the biggest advantage of that setup?
To clarify I don’t think any ‘kits’ exist but there are commonly used ITBs that can be adapted to engines of similar types, I.e 4age and the gsxr600 that JC050 mentioned.
Regarding the coil pack - the stock G102 has a mechanical / vacuum dizzy - after changing the cam, the compression and porting the head the stock setup while still functional wasn’t working as well as it should. As I had the option to run igntiion with Megasquirt, I thought I would upgrade.
While I only picked up 4 or 5 hp from the coil pack, the car felt so much more alive, crisp and responsive. And better fuel economy - I got an extra 50km per tank.
Good to know, I’m leaning towards using a megasquirt. Just not sure about the tuning side. I have no experience ecu tuning and I’m unsure of the skill level of some of the mechanics around my way, it’s very much “unless it’s a Falcon or a suby” around here.
I imagine drivability would have improved vastly from what you’ve said. That’s something I’ll definately be trying to maintain so I’ll probably add that to the list of mods.
Lucky for me I have a Megasquirt tuner / installer locally.
Initially I built my own ecu from a kit and had it running fuel only. I spent months reading up on it before I decided to go ahead. No regrets though, I learnt so much from the experience.
I only had help when it came to getting the coil pack working.
Well I’ll join up on some of those pages. Looks helpful already
If you don’t mind I’ll probably have a few questions you may be able to answer when it comes to it Jason. That’s a while off though, gotta get the car on the road yet. Current status is well not close.
Currently have the entire interior out, fixing a hole in the floor, new carpet and such. Door seal on the drivers side was missing for quite a while and the carpet was rank.
Also chasing some new seats, as you can see the old ones are shot. Any suggestions or anyone have any for sale?
depending on what you want for brakes, i have been sussing the Wilwood GP320 4 piston calipers with AP Racing 254mm 4x100+38 rotors, should only have to make the adaptor for the calipers that way. the calipers do a minimum of 19mm rotor though that’s why the AP Racing ones, they are 20.8mm compared to daihatsu’s 18mm ones
or for straight swapover look for a late model Pyzar GRV, they have 250mm rotors, will still need the calipers also but they apparently bolt straight on
Mokeman, I’ve actually been talking to Tim from compact motorsports and he’s said he can make an adapter bracket to suit a wildwood dynapro 4 pot radial that can take a up to a 310x25.4mm rotor. A rotor that big would require a larger than 15" rim. But Tim suggested a Honda prelude rotor which is 282mm x 23mm and would fit inside a 15" rim.
I’ve had a bit of trouble trying to track down a GRV pyzar though, hence why I was looking at other options.
[Edit]
Just did some reading, prelude rotors are 5 stud from what I can tell and the charade is a 4 stud so that won’t work. Haha.
Heard back from Tim, he suggested the prelude rotors as they’re available at a good price and can be re-drilled to 4x100. Anyone had experience with re-drilled rotors?
