My experience with “cold air boxes” is that they are a mod for mods sake or for changing sound. I’ve played with a couple on a dyno and found some benefit to some designs, however, one really needs to test on the road to, of course, replicate real situations. To do that I bought some cheap digital thermometers with long wires to remote probs (these days I use a Banks datamonster gauge and Banks airmouse). Put one near the entry or front of the grill, one slipped in the rubber coupler near the throttle plate/s and one at the entry to the filter. Check/compare at idle when cold and warm. Check compare in some driving situations. Alter and repeat under the same conditions .
Here is one without the shroud around the air cleaner.
If you want more torque (which is what wins track type racing whereas power wins drag races) go for a long induction tract.
I’d stick with the std air cleaner and an ITG filter if they make them for yours? Look internally at all the parts that flow air. Remove all sharp edges inside and transition all angular or abrupt surfaces that air flow will hit so that the angle is as close to seven degrees as possible since that seems to be the magic number where air will not separate from the surface and stay smooth/laminar.
Get a closed loop (wideband) O2 sensor and gauge (Innovate, AEM or similar). You can get away with a little tuning yourself using this and also adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Also go through Mick’s thread. He was altering the K3VE ECUs. Plus he had a heap of other useful stuff.