Hey guys this is me picking up my Move, pretty much dead stock at this time apart from eBay coilovers, needed a fair bit of love to get her on the road. After a general service and finding afew missing parts it past no worries.
These photos are the day before Roady.
This is the only photo I have after getting it registered, started driving it daily but it just started to run worse and worse everyday until I’m guessing it had zero compression in cyl 2, blowing sooo much smoke so found a 1999 sirion for next to nothing and dropped the motor out, currently have the ej-de assembled with the move gearbox and kframe ready to go into the move.
Now time to get my head around this damn wiring and build an exhaust. More photos are coming
Hey guys so I’m just about to bolt the motor back in, I’m just having trouble finding the pin out for the sirion ecu, could anyone help me with that please
Sorry it has been awhile but quick update on my Move,
Motor is in and running perfectly a little bit smokey when cold but im pretty sure it had a hard life before the move.
Welded myself up an exhaust just using a mix of the stock move and m100 exhausts thing sounds pretty good will try to upload a video.
Currently having issues with brakes, looked like rear wheel cylinders were leaking so i completely swapped my rear hubs and brakes from the m100 into the move unfortunately also ran into an issue with leaking wheel cylinders so Currently not using the car until i get around to ordering some new ones
Still have the move, finally after rebuilding the brakes front and rear, aswell as rebuilding my booster i finally realised the shaft on the sirion master is about 15mm longer than the move original so having it bolted to the booster applies brake pressure currently have it spaced out with some nuts and just running no booster but i should be able to make up an adapter plate as a new move booster is $600 from bersons
Just a small update on the move, everything is running mint now apart from some wear and tear, clutch is also stuffed. Have made myself an adapter for the booster that allows the booster to function properly. Currently doing some rust repairs on the bonnet that i feel will escalate to a full respray, also have some 13x6 rims with aggressive offset that i want to massage on. The rims are 4x100, i have already converted the rear to 4x100 so next is the front, need to work out if my move box or the m100 box is cheaper to find a LSD for then depending on that i will modify the front hubs to make them 4x100
The M100 box is the way I’d go, I believe from searches I did years ago that one of the Cusco ones will fit. The EF-EL box will be hard to find an lsd for. I’ve done one swap of EJDE with M100 box into a L200 where the td05 turboed motor was killing gearboxes. Custom drive shaft needed for one side. Custom clutch cable. I should have documented this but didn’t. The clutch cable was a small tig welding job. Gear ratios are better and you get rid of the super low first gear. Most efel boxes have a super low final drive like 4.9 (mine was rare 4.4 or 4.6) whereas the M100 is more highway friendly.
I agree with @Mr_Gormsby The ejde box is better than the ed or ef box’s. My old Move had the stock box with a Franken engine (660cchead/850cc block) and was running a tdo4. The first gear was way too short, especially with the low limiter of an ed20 or an ejde ecu. I did overcome that issue by running an efel loom and ecu with a piggy back ecu.
After the move I had my budget track hack mira which had an ed10 bored out with ejde pistons so essentially the same as an ejde but in an ed. I never had an ed or ef box to put in so I put in a box from an L251. This was an N/A car and man it went so much better with the ej box.
Things I did were different to Mr G but some of the things you will encounter will be:
the mount for the gearbox for the subframe
gears stick linkage set up
*depending on your setup is you the drive shafts (possibly only driver side ) may need to be custom.
Your clutch cable setup/ ( I made brackets and adapter’s to make the stock one work).
Please note also you can use the clutch and flywheel from the Move as the flywheel is lighter but you need to use a spacer 1-2mm thick (stock ones usually found on ejde box’s etc) in between the crank and the flywheel to space the flywheel out a touch so the starter will engage to start the car.
Thanks man. I was thinking if i have to do something tricky with linkages i might bolt in a honda kswap shifter assembly. All of my engine mounts need doing so will do that at the same time.
With the fly wheel, what is the consensus with lighter fly wheels on ejde’s i remember reading somewhere that the advantage with ej’s is their torque and not its revability so having something abit heavier plays to its strengths?
You will get a better throttle response with the lighter flywheel. It is said that you will have less going uphill etc but from what I have found it hasn’t really been the case.
Mr G ligthened a CB23\24 charade gear box flywheel for me years ago and I had to balance it myself later. At the time I didn’t realise the CB23/24 flywheel was the same as the ejde flywheel’s. If I had of realised that I would have just used the Mira/Move one flywheel.
Anyway the lightened flywheelin the charde made the charade so much better than before and in my mira it made it better also.
I didn’t have the extra rotating mass that the stock ejde flywheels have. If you get the chance put them side by side and weigh them to see how much difference there is.
I currently have an L251 daily and if the clutch ever needs doing on that you can guess what flywheel and clutch I will be using.
wiring is fairly easy. the stock move exhaust will mate upto the ej also
