I have recently bought a cuore from 2000 but in an excellent condition. Everything works fine at first.
Of course I started adding more options and upgrades like a navigation system, heads up speedometer and a center lock. I even added red racing stripes and I am enjoying it very much.
I had just installed an aftermarket center lock systme and I looked for a constant 12 volt source to power it. I found one coming into the ignition key slot and I used it by taking a wire from it to power the locking system.
The next day the engine starts then dies immediately after. I though at first the locking system drain the battery so I removed it and recharged the battery to full but the problem stays.
I am really buzzeled and don’t know what could be the reason. I checked the fuses box and all seem to be fine. Is there an anti-theft system that I triggered somehow. I would really appreciate any help.
how exactly did you take a wire off the 12v permanent live on the ignition? Can you remove that entirely and try again?
I suspect this is the critical bit - either you’ve upset the immobiliser, or tapping off this particular circuit is causing the ECU to have a voltage drop or something on that circuit causing it to drop out.
Best option is to pay an auto electrician to have a look at it, second best option is to make it all exactly as it was before you fiddled with it if possible
If you go with the ‘change it back to how it was’ option and it fixes the issue then just look for a different permanent 12v in the fusebox and tap off of that instead.
Thanks for your reply … I indeed returned everything to the way it was and still the problem exists most probably the harm was already done. I am thinking to check the spark plugs . Do you think this might be the problem?
It depends on which market your vehicle was exported to. Here in Europe, they all have immobilizers. Exports to continental Asian markets may have this feature ommited. A Philippino friend of mine once told me that Japanese vehicles exported to his former country were qualitative inferior. This was told to me back in the early Eightees. So, it’s possible that this comment is long obsolete, if even factual?
Before you take it to an electrician, you could save yourself a bit of money, through acquiring a diagnostic device which plugs into your diagnosis socket. Before you even do that, I would first listen to the fuel pump, when the ignition is turned on, before turning the key to the starting mode. If the fuel pump ceases during start cranking, this should give you a clue as to where to look further. If the cranking noise drowns out the fuel pump sound, you may want to disconnect the wire connecting to the starter’s solenoid. Then listen. You also could, instead, skip disconnecting the starter’s solenoid, connecting a test lamp to the fuel pump’s circuit, to see if its function is interrupted while starting
Yes I live in Europe and I bought the car from here so it must have an immobilizer then. But how come the key has no chip inside it or at least the key I got from the seller.
Now I am thinking maybe the problem is because I opened the original key and took the shaft from it to put it on my new center lock device as shown here in the picture … I even glued the Daihatsu logo on it to make it look origenal
Are we to assume that your vehicle ran before you modified your keys? If so, that has to be the answer. I have the predecessor (1st generation MOVE) which was delivered with two black keys and one grey. Supposedly, the grey one is its master key. But, my vehicle will start with using all 3 keys. So, there must evidently be a chip in all 3 of them. If the key you modified is the only key left for your car, this will prove troublesome
Yes 100% there is a chip inside the ‘body’ of the key - if you have removed the blade of the key and swapped it to a different body that will be your problem.
Do you still have the body of the old key? A lazy option would be to open up the shroud of the steering column and duct tape the old body of the key near to the ignition key barrel. Its a proximity thing, so as long as it is physically close to the ignition barrel it will detect and the car will run I suspect. Then you can keep your new key exactly as it is and the car should run.
Coding out the immobilizer is possible but will be complex, and require an auto electrician and comprehensive wiring diagram. Count of it being a day or more of their time.
the best option is to reinstate the original key to exactly how it was, then I am fully confident it will work again. Unless I am mistaken, the keys are pretty ‘dumb’ and the immobiliser code will be a simple static value that is read by RFID. Any key cutting shop will be able to cut and code you a new key for a few tens of Euros I would think? Certainly I was able to do this for a mid-90s Fiat Punto in the past, the key looked different, but worked 100% fine as the key blade profile matched, and the key cutter read the static code from the old key, and coded it to the new one in about 15 minutes. I can’t imagine Daihatsu had a significantly more sophisticated system?
Thank you guys very much you are all so great and smart … indeed it was that hidden chip which i though at the beginning to be just a piece of plastic. But really … look at it the picture below … it looks like a piece of junk
And that little piece was all the problem. I am so happy I didn’t throw those pieces away ( I was just going to do that tonight actually). I took that piece and put inside the new key body and all works perfectly.
