Yeah I have seen it, but thank you. The build has been put on hold for a little while while I focus on getting in some good overtime to help pay for my flights to Australia. In the meantime I’ve been reading up on intake and header design and scouring the internet for specs on the k3 like camshaft duration ect. I now have a lot of this information and I’ve been playing around with different formulas and online calculators. I might be able to make some really good headers from a standard manifold to give a good low to mid range increase. Unfortunately for a while it will be just theory during the evening for a few weeks or so while I work my ass off to pull together a few grand for my holiday at the end of the year.
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Yesterday I got a bit done, bushes pressed in, diff and trailing arms cleaned up and painted with black kill rust, made an adjustable panhard bar, cut out the old mounts and got the rear end bolted in. I will update the build thread with photos on Monday, was in such a hurry I didn’t get any yesterday.
Got a few issues, had another look at the rear brakes and looks like rear discs are out of the question again, the pcd for the flanges are different between 2we and awd 
Now I’m thinking I might have a look for some brake cylinders with a larger I.D and throw some new drums and shoes in it. Otherwise I’ll have to fab some brackets for the calipers which would be a pain in the ass because we don’t have an oxy at work so cutting out some 10mm plate would become a big task, and if I had some made by a company it would probably become an expensive task 
Is there some kind of size chart or something available for rear brake cylinders? What would be the best way to find something the same with a larger bore?
For the rear springs the 2wd eibachs are the same dimensions as the standard awd springs but with a heavier rate they don’t even compress enough under the weight of the car to get the shocks bolted up. Did some calculations and by shortening them I should be able to get a rate close to 300lbs which should work out really well 
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Nice one on the springs. 6mm plate would be enough for the disc calipers, that’s all they are on the Applause. The simple thing would be to flick some Applause ones on. They typically line up within about 5mm so just some thick washers between caliper and backing plate. Might have to bore the bracket as I do for the MIra.
I agree 100% with Mr G on that It should be easy enough to do the backing plate with some spacer’s. I used an applause standard backing plate to make a template (including what I needed to bore out. I got some 10mm plate cut to approx size at a steel place and then using a bench drill press, an angle ginder and a die grinder on compressor made the backing plates. Much easier to weld on a couple of spacers and re-drill the bolt pattern if needed and weld up the old bolt pattern. I just didn’t trust my welding at that time.
The bolt pattern is way off between the diff and 2wd rear axle. I think it’s a bit too much to get away with elongating the holes unfortunately. I would have to make up some new ones. Good thing I guess is with the viscous coupling between the front and rear axles the braking force will also be transferred through the driveline between the front and rear to a certain extent.
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I think Terios wheel cylinders could fit, looking at pictures they look very similar, the I.D is 20.5mm compared to 17.5 for the sirion cylinders. I would love applause rears but the backing plate will be in issue and another issue is rego, at least if I keep drum rears I wont have so many hurdles to overcome. Any idea if an increase of 3mm could be too much?
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@Mr_Gormsby I just went through your build thread again looking for some more info on your fuel pump and found the pictures of the caliper brackets bolted up and the PDF file with the dimensions ect. I feel like everytime I look in that thread I find some good information I didn’t notice before haha.
Anyway I think I might have a go at rear disc brakes next year after I come back from Australia, if your offer of catching up for a coffee/beer and supplying the calipers and brackets still stands 
then I would actually have everything in front of me and I could work out exactly how to make it all work.
Soo the reason I was actually looking in your build thread again is im very interested in your intank swirl pot/ pump carrier and I have 3 main points of interest here, pictures of the setup, how you are supplying power to the pump (you mentioned something about Teflon washers, I have a pretty good idea of how you have done it but I would love a bit more info and pics if you have them) and are you running a sender for fuel level?
You might have to keep reminding me about the fuel tank related pictures. I’m under the pump with a uni assignment which is due Monday next week.
If you could send a drawing of the bolt pattern needed to do a disc rear end on yours, then maybe we can work something out to make sure you leave with a pair after your visit.
Just running the std fuel sensor in the std location but rotated due to one of the baffles I’ve put in. It does not work very well, but never did. If I pull the tank out again I might delete it. Power to the pump is via two threaded terminals aka bolts. So the earth is easy enough. The power terminal has a sleeve and two teflon washers to insulate it.
and the teflon does a good job sealing too?
i will remind you about the pictures later next week after your uni stuff is finished, and I will get the dimensions of the diff flange so hopefully we can work somthing out.
Once again I owe you a big thankyou, youve been very helpful as always 
Teflon is really good stuff, not cheap and hard to find in bar stock and sheet. It is one of the plastics most impervious to a massive range of chemicals, does not conduct electricity and is heat resistant. It will compress a bit and makes good gasket material. I’ve made my inlet manifold gasket out of it and washer too where I want to reduce heat transfer. Yeah, it seals really well and can be used over and over.
Yeah, more latter - back to the uni paper…
What about chopping boards? the plastic ones are made from Teflon or something else?
just a quick question about the bolt hole pattern on the 4wd sirion for the drums. Are the bolt hole is the bolt hole pattern the sam as the 2wd. In other words can the 2wd drums directly bolt on in place of the 4wd ones?
Unfortunately not, that’s the problem
The bolt holes are off by about 1cm or more. From what I can see the shoes/wheel cylinders are the same and the drums are the same dimensions just with a spline in the centre to get drive from the axle its really just the bolt pattern that’s off. I will try and get some detailed measurements soon, so far I’ve just had a quick suss with the tape measure
At a glance they looked the same but after I checked with the tape measure on the weekend I was very disappointed
the reason I asked was the bolt pattern for the mira and sirion are the same and you can bolt sirion (2wd) rear drum brakes onto a mira. so re drilling the bolt holes in the applause backing plate was quite easy I simply welded up the current holes worked out the sweet spot for the to go and re drilled. This is a rough template of the applause backing plate that I used You could download it and print it to see how close it is to give you and Idea.
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ok well I tested that one and that wont work to print out but If you like I can scan the original one and put in a pdf and email it. When I first did that one it worked but i guess something has changed over a year or 2.
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Would be awesome if you could scan it with a ruler beside it then I have a reference and can enlarge it or reduce it on the photocopier to get the correct size right off the bat
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I’m sure this will make a few people jealous, 102 octane at the pump haha 
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we used to have a 100 octane at a pump near where I used to live but it was an e typ fuel and not e85. I tried a tank of it and meh I just went back to 98.
The local United station had 100 octane for a while. It’s one of only three places on the Gold Coast where you can get e85. All of their fuel is generally a couple of cents per liter less than the next cheapest.