For anyone who is interested looks like awd sirion runs a live axle rear with drums
Maybe same as a terrios?
So I guess applause rear brakes are out of the question 
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They may still very well bolt on. Live driven axle will have four bolts for drum, fwd is beam rear axle and is also four bolt (I have one here). The conversion on an L200 requires boring out the bracket and putting the disc onto and drum with integral hub but where the drum is machined off.
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The applause cable bolts to the caliper they dont use little drums inside the disc
For the L200 what would you put the disc onto. It needs a carrier. Take an old Charade or M100 drum and machine the bell off and leave the studs. The discs sits over this.
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What is the PCD for daihatsu? Iāve done a google search and Iāve come up with 4x100 or 4x114 which is correct?
not all daihatsu are the same however I have not yet seen a 4x114.3 pcd stock daihatsu. The 2 sizeās for 4 stud are usually 4x100 (sirion,L700, applause,charade G10x G20x and pyzar) and 4x110 (mira, move, charade g11, L80, L70)
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OK good to know, I had some nice 15" alloys stashed away out the back of work that were from a late model mini (4x100) but looks like someone needed them more than I did, had a look yesterday when I was at work and they seem to have dissapeared, bummer
So long as I donāt have any unforseen expenses I will be picking up a sirion next month. Iām leaning towards the blue one from the link in my earlier post but Iām also thinking I could pick up the green one for hella cheap because of the rust (I do a lot of rust repairs at work so fixing it up wouldnt be too big of a problem). But if I drive 8 hours with a car trailer just to get there and find out its a complete bomb Iām going to be upset. So I havnt decided if I want to take the risk yet but the couple of hundred euros I save on it would cover the trip there, obviously its not worth it if it costs me an extra few hundred on unforseen repairsā¦ Iāve been looking everyday but nothing has come up closer to home yet
Now Mr Gormsby, I have a couple of questions about the suspension, firstly what are the risks with opening the struts, Iām guessing the standard legs are pressurised gas type, will they explode or spray me with oil or whatās the technique needed here?
Secondly, do I need to match the inserts to the spring rates before hand or is it just a matter of installing adjustable inserts then adjusting the rebound to match the spring rate?
And lastly is the rear end, the awd runs a different shock to the 2wd, from what I can see the only real difference is the mounting points. Whatās the best course of action here, finding a pair from another car that fit with better characteristics or does koni make inserts for normal shocks or what would you reccomend?
Struts are ultra low presure, if any at all left in an old car. Will not spray you. If concerned drill a 3mm hole near the top about 30mm down from the weld.
If you put a koni insert in (this is what Iāve used this time around) then it will have the enough adjustment for just about any rate. Start with std front rate or no more than plus 50lb on what you have. So yes instal the adjustable inserts and twist the top knob to match rate (can talk you more through that when the time comes).
What is the difference with the mount? Eyelet or pin? Quite likely Koni will have something. Once you have the car it might be a matter of sending the open and closed measurements.
here is a photo of some awd shocks. looks like the lower mounting point is different for bolting onto the diff 
Okay. Thanks. A bit less common but will look into it.
here are some pics of the awd that I got from work. Looks like the awd on the sirion is very similar to Daihatsu move transfer box you posted a picture of earlier (in the picture you can see a smaller transmission in the corner, this is listed as the verteiler (translation is distributor).
I donāt understand fully how the system works, or more precisely how it functions inside the gearbox. The output for the transfer is the inner shaft and is driven from inside the actual diff centre, or the output for the transfer is the outer shaft and driven by another means? Makes me wonder if there is any option for a front LSD with this system, im assuming the cheap Gripper LSD inserts are out of the question here, and the external viscous type that I have seen in one of your threads I assume would also be out of the question as it would be located right where the transfer isā¦
Also it would be awesome to find out what other models share the rear diff, if its the same as a terrios then finding a rear LSD shouldnāt be too hard at all.
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Hmm, on the gearbox. We shall see I guess. Might be hard for me figuring some of that out from afar. But great help there with those images. Thanks
yeah I guess the trans is the same between fwd and awd, the only difference being the transfer/distributor mounted on the right. Unfortunately there is only so much information I can gather without actually having one in front of me.
I think a realistic goal would be aiming to start racing next year, if I buy the car next month that only leaves approx. 4 months of the racing season left, the biggest thing holding me back is money, I can only afford to spend so much each month and if there are any problems with brakes or suspension I would rather upgrade them straight away instead of fixing them just to race half a season. Not to mention licencing and entry fees for events lowering my budget even furtherā¦
If you have any info and/or dimensions on the front legs and what inserts you recommend for them that would be great, at least its something else I can look into in the meantime without having the car infront of me.
and MrG I just want to say thanks, youāve been a great help so far, and no doubt you will also be a great help in the future too
My in depth knowledge is nowhere near as MrGās but, here is some things I might be able to help with:
Rear Sway Bars: only the very early models of the sirion have rear sway bars. They were deleted as a cost saving measure. If you could find one it would be an improvement on none, if you could find 2 youāre laughing. I had mine custom made by signature sway bars here in Oz.
Brakes: The copens have bigger front brakes (246mm vs 234mm) and are a pretty simple upgrade. You will need the calipers, some copen discs and will need to remove the dust covers.
Engine: There are a few models of toyotas over in europe that come with the 3sz-ve engine. It is a 1.5lt based on the K3-VE engine. Upgrades vs the K3 are: better intake design, better head design (including bigger ports) and stroked out to 1.5lt. Compression is lower though. Other engines you could look at are the k3-ve2s from the Rally2 and Rally4 in the UK, which, have a more aggressive exhaust camshaft and are rated at 110hp, but, there are reports that most are closer to 115hp. They are a bit rare as only 300-400 were sold.
As for ECU they are read only, so most people use an aftermarket ecu or piggyback. The JDM k3-ve2 is rated at 110ps (108hp) and I believe that to be down to the tune. I have a JDM ecu, but, havenāt been able to test my theory out due to the immobiliser
Hope some of this helped.
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Thanks for the info, the copen brakes, do you need complete callipers or just the saddleās?
Yeah here in Germany we have the awd sport, this has k3-ve2 motor rated at 102 PS, a few PS down on the rally 4 from the UK.
So you think the 3sz head would be an improvement over the ke head? I guess youād need the complete top end off one yeah? and most likely a tune also? Has it been done before?
quick Google search yeilded this http://shop.kiesow.de/fahrzeugteil/kis11002112981009-zylinderkopf-15-ga
seems like it could be a cheap enough option. although I guess you would need the manifolds and a tune for it to have any real benefit.
my guess would be if it flows better you could lift the rev limiter and add a bit more fuel to get a bit more power at higher rpm and improved torque also.
im thinking if I could overclock the ecu to lift the rev limiter and use a piggyback like the greddy blue I could probably pull it off on a pretty small budget.
any input would be appreciated
now a question about dvvt, from what I can see it only changes the timing of the intake camshaft, does this work the same as vvt in the sense that it activates at a set rpm, or is it constantly changing the cam timing throughout the rpm range the same as vvti?
It is dynamically changing and Iāve seen many people that go aftermarket ecu suffer not being able to keep it that way and have to live with it being at a set rpm.
Both 3sz manifolds are different due to the bigger ports and the throttle body is bigger too. Re the brake upgrade; Iām unsure. I am yet to do it, but, was told to get the callipers and buy some replacement rotors from eBay.
You could see if anyone in the UK is wrecking a rally 2/4 and get a camshaft. They are made to work with the stock ECU, so, wonāt need a tune.
do you know if anyone has done the 3sz top end swap? would be nice to see a build thread, see whats involved ect.