Sirion autoX build random questions

Back to the dvvt, is it only dynamic during open loop and during closed loop (wot) it would be more of an on/off thing engaging at a certain RPM yes?

I have read on a German forum that the ke-ve and the 3sz heads are the sameā€¦ But I have also found a website that sells both and there you can clearly see they have different part numbers and they require different exhaust manifolds. And on a 3rd website I have found says they are different heads before 2007 and after that they share the same head. Seems to be a lot of conflicting information getting around so I have started a thread on the German daihatsu forum to see what information I can find. If you would like to follow here is the link:
http://www.daihatsu-forum.de/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=45490
There you can also find the links to the websites I have just mentioned. To view the forum in English youā€™ll have to copy the link into google translator.

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And MrG I have read on another topic your uni paper is finished and youā€™re back on the build, good stuff! If you have a bit of free time could you send me the dimensions of the standard sirion legs so I can start looking into availability of the inserts over here on my side of the world. I also have an idea for the rear shocks, Iā€™ll draw something up on paper and post a photo when I have some motivation and see what you think about it.

whats the average life of a timing chain on these motors?

Technically the german forum is correct for K3-VEs after 2007 or 2008, however the throttle body and idle speed controller are different compared to the 3SZ-VE. Pre 2007-2008 K3s however have the older cylinder heads. I havenā€™t read of anyone doing the swap, but, I have been pretty interested in doing it. However, the updated k3 and the 3sz-ve were never sold here in oz :confused:

Yeah I will do it if I can find a top end cheap enough, Iā€™m just not too sure how high it would need to rev to make the most of the improved airflow. I have read the 3SZ redlines at 8000, the k3 has less displacement so maybe it would need to rev higher than this to make the most of it. Now we are starting to get into a touchy area because I donā€™t know how high you can rev a standard k3-ve2 safely. I have been reading up on the greddy emanage, normally you need to fork out big money for an emanage ultimate for the rev limit cut function but some Honda guys have managed to use the cheaper emanage to lift the rev cut by wiring the 2 auxiliary injector outputs into cylinder 1&3 and 2&4 injectors using diodes then using the auxiliary injector map to take over injector firing once the engine reached fuel cut. Because the standard ecu uses fuel cut there is still ignition after redline. The only problem is this changes the injectors to batch fire after fuel cut so some efficiency may be lost. Because Iā€™m a tight arse and donā€™t want to fork out big money for a stand alone or for an emanage ultimate this is the route I would take. So if I can find a head with intake manifold for like 200 bucks, head gasket and bolts through work is about 100 bucks and an emanage blue is about 200 bucks the whole thing should cost around 500-600 which is not too bad at all!

Unfortunately it would all be a waste of time if there wasnā€™t any improvement in low down torque as the car will be primarily for slalom

Complete caliper from memory

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Yep uni paper done. A couple of month break until the I need to get back into it.

Had a look and Iā€™ve cut up every single leg - except those in my spare car, but itā€™s sort of packed away. Thatā€™s not a ā€œnoā€ but a ā€œhmmm, how am I going to get to it?ā€. Anyway I can fill you in on the shortened ones Iā€™m working on.

Even if you can tell me the inside diameter, I can measure the length when I have the car. Its a bit tricky for me to cut one open and check myself because that would mean the car would be stuck on the hoist, dont think the boss would be so keen on that idea.
I was going to put an offer on the green one but the listing is no longer available. I have sent the guy an email anyway hoping the listing has expired and he just hasnā€™t got around to re listing it yet, have to wait and see what he saysā€¦
If he still has it and takes the offer then Iā€™ll try to pick it up in the next week or so. Just have to organise a car with a towball and hire a trailer for the weekend.
Also Iā€™m curious what your thoughts are on the 3sz head, I know its hard to say but do you think it would improve torque or just top end?
Iā€™ve been mulling it over and seeing how the 3sz head is the same as the k3 head after 2008 Iā€™ll try to find specs on the k3ve after 2008 that should give me some kind of indication as to how it would work, even though the k3ve has less comp than the k3ve2.

In Australia the K3-ve2 is the most powerful model and think it ceased around 2002-2003 where then the revised K3-VE came out and it dropped from 75kw(81kw in Japan) to 63kw

How does the pre 2008 ke-ve compare to the current k3-ve? Its pointless to compare the current k3-ve to the k3-ve2 as the increased power of the k3-ve2 comes from compression and camshaft differences. But the main difference between the pre 2008 K3-VE and current K3-VE is the head.

Daihatsu stopped being delivered into Australia (donā€™t quote me on this) 2005??

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I didnt realise that was the case. ive been looking on Google and its hard to find any concrete information but it looks like a difference of around 5 to 10 PS and only 1 to 2 Nm between the old and new k3ve. Its very hard to tell though because this is from comparing the specs from Daihatsu to the specs of the perda myvi or whatever its called, the problem being they were produced from 05 to 11 so I have no idea if the specs are from the old motor or the revised oneā€¦
If I come across the parts for the right price I will do the top end swap so we can all know once and for all.
back to suspension, here is the plan for the rears.
some adjustable shocks similar to these (eyelet on one end, threaded on the other end)
mounted upside down with some brackets like these screwed on the end with a locking nut

end result should fit where these used to

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Not sure things will work inverted. The foot valve in the bottom will no longer sit in an oil bath.

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M100 strut ID is 40.0mm

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Do you have any suggestions MrG? and thanks for the I.D!
Bad news is the green sirion is sold :frowning:

Iā€™d be altering the bracket on the diff housing as this would open you up to many more options. What do the diff/shock mounts look like?

At the top ind of the damper market you can get inverted stuff. The Penske shocks in the image below have a lower seat that screws off the shaft. They have ends which would suit you mod. Bit $$$$ but one of the best of the best. I have a Sachs Lotus Super Seven shock set up in the back of mine. Top pin mount screws of and has a super fine thread that goes into it.

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Yeah if I had the money I would go to town on it and just trailer it to and from events but Iā€™m limited to what I can do with my income :frowning: Iā€™m still trying to get information on if/how can you get modifications engineer approved like we can in Australia. I think modifying the diff mounts is out of the question. I have also been told on the German forum that it may be possible to use standard parts off other models and still pass tĆ¼v easily so long as they fit without modifying anything because technically the parts are already approved for road use. But thatā€™s another thing Iā€™m still trying to confirm :frowning: and Iā€™m still not sure how the strut inserts will go. I think they will fly under the radar easily enough but in the case if an accident when youā€™re at fault often your car will get thoroughly inspected and if you have modifications that arenā€™t listed on your fahrzuegschein (rego papers) then your in deep shit. These are all problems Iā€™m trying to solve before I spend a whole bunch of money buying and modifying a car I possibly couldnā€™t drive

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OK guys update, going to pick up a sirion on Monday. Its just a 2wd model but it has the 102 PS motor, from what I can see in the photos it looks very clean, no rust, has new tires, looks like it has also been lowered, and its only a few hours from where Iā€™m living and not on the other side of the country. Picking it up for 150 bucks! The motor started making a clacking sound so they stopped driving it and posted it for sale.
Iā€™m hoping its just a timing chain or a lifter, something simple (fingers crossed). If its anything to do with the head Iā€™m going to swap the complete head for a 3SZ head straight away. Iā€™m really hoping its nothing in the bottom endā€¦
Can anyone with experience on these motors please tell me if there are any common problems that will cause it to make some funky noises?

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