Wooki3 the L60 Handivan


#21

I will also point out at this time that these are not Teflon automotive heim joint and are regular heim joints. It is merely for the purpose of fabrication to buying the cheaper option and when the car hits the road and it feels okay, I will then upgrade them to the better quality heim joint.


#22

As of yesterday I still am playing with the set up, I am about to solid mount the sub frame to the chassis. This will eliminate any play in the frame, and keep suspension geometry in a fixed point.
Next step will be back to modifying the lower control arms to add another 5 mm of adjustment.


#23


Getting the basics done, the sub frame is actually in the correct position with the rubbers but I want more precision with suspension geometry.
My tig welder doesn’t like galvanised steel or whatever Daihatsu coated the frame in as the tungsten was deforming a bit with the tack welds. So I’ll blast the frame at work and bring it home to tig weld it neatly.


#24


With the sub frame now solid mounted, attention can be turned to the lower control arms. Need to shorten them another 5 mm to get the more adjustment closer to 0° camber.


#25

Not sure why you think you need zero camber. Plus you want the track as wide as possible. Strut front end needs neg 2.5 or more. I am at about neg 3.5 right now with about 4 deg castor. Zero for drag racing. For your little thing at at least start around neg 1.5.


#26

Cheers Mr_Gormsby, I don’t want 0 camber at ride height, I am aiming for 0 camber on full suspension extension. Mainly so if I do manage to hit a bump and come down on the suspension that the wheels wont be in contact with the road with positive camber. If that make sense.

On that note, the sub frame and lower control arms are almost finished, next will be to make the steering arms (actually looking forward to pro ackerman angle steering arms).


#27

Went and bought the real deal auto heim joints, these are 5/8" thread and 1/2". Looking forward to getting this rolling in to the paint shop.


#28



#29

Me thinks, according to CAMS, you now have a Sports Sedan.


#30

I believe you are correct, fortunately there aren’t really those categories in hill climbing is the events I am interested in. I think Darth will just fall under the category of “Modified 0-1600 cc”.
I had a good read of http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/Race/RA20-Group-3D-2016-1.pdf and its goes in to great detail.

In a few days I will have completed the next part of the project, the wheels will be covered in coatings that I hope will improve the performance.
As yet I have not started the steering arms, I need to think about it a bit more as to what I want.


#31

3J Improved Production
9. SUSPENSION AND STEERING

9.3 BUSHES: Elastomeric bushes used at suspension pivot points (which are not otherwise specified in these
regulations) may be replaced by other elastomeric bushings. Elastomeric bushes/isolators used at sub-frame
to bodyshell mounting points are free.

and I don’t think it’d pass for road registered unless it had rego and a mod plate

I think you’d only fall foul if someone complained to the steward of the course or if going through scrutineering at a state level event. I have had this happen before for a minor infringement to do with some interior parts being removed and consequently I was placed with Sports Sedans. I hope you have no issues, just be coy about your mods.


#32


With things moving along, I was a little disappointed that the Argon is almost empty. Plenty more work to come once I get a new bottle.


#33

Well I took the extractors I made to work, and gave them a freshen up with some ceramic coating, this is Ciloxide matte black by Tech Line Coatings. I coated inside and out. I am quite happy with the outcome of the finish but am tempted to put a clear coat over the matte finish to bring them up to a gloss black.
I bought an exchange Argon bottle so fabrication has continued.
I made the new steering arms, and while there is plenty of pro ackerman I think I will make them slighty longer on the leverage to reduce the pro ackerman angle and until the new disc brake rear hub have been machined.
For now I will throw a brake caliper kit and new pads in the old brakes, and work on the big brake upgrade when I have another cash injection.

Need a new header flange, for the new set up to go ahead. Performance parts have been ordered.


#34

Excellent work mate.

Id absolutely love one day to know how to do anything more then arc welding!


#35

Cheers, my tig welding is better than my mig welding by a long shot.

I’m feeling like this manifold is at 90% now, only a few bits to weld on.


#36

That looks awesome Dale :thumbsup:


#37

So I bought this little thing, and I’ve been buying the supporting parts for the fuel system. Rising rate Malpassi to suit the 36 mm IDF, a Walbro in-line efi pump, 6 meters of 3/16", 1/4", and 5/16" bundy tubes. I have spent about $200 on parts for making the IDF blow through friendly.


#38

Wow this is turning out to be an awesome car.


#39

IMG_20170729_230818
IMG_20170730_161252IMG_20170730_161346

This is the first time I have made a turbo manifold. Some interesting clearance issues without using small radius bends but it’s a blessing in disguise, as the u bend of the manifold allows the 45 mm dump pipe to pass in between. I will post some pictures of what I mean once it’s all solidly welded up.


#40

I accidentally welded on the exhaust housing inlet flange 180° the wrong direction.
IMG-20170730-WA0011

This is where the turbo is supposed to be. So I will cut off the reducer and spin it around tomorrow.
IMG-20170730-WA0014

This has been made with two intentions. Larger radius bends are cheaper, and this is where the 45 mm dump pipe passes through.
IMG-20170730-WA0016