Yes, pull the box and engine together. Have attempted every combo I could think of. Box and engine is best.
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I agree with Mr G and I prefer to take both out also. I just did engine out twice with mine leaving gearbox in and it was a right pain in the ass. Whichever way you go make sure that throw out bearing gets changed lol
Thanks mr G and mr evil. Got a throw out bearing as part of the kit. My plan is to take out the air con stuff this weekend to make it easier to remove. Then when summer is coming I’ll put it back together and get it regassed. Will I need the engine crane? Or can I drop it out the front with the air con stuff out of the way.
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crane is always safer and easier. I always use one now.
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I’ll borrow the crane again. Thanks Jimmy.
Gotta love having a birthday near tax time. Tax refunds + birthday money = Daihatsu parts. YAY.
First, springs. I went for a particular set of RS-R down (40-45mm lower) springs. Main reason is the rear spring rate is heading in the right direction. I couldn’t find details of the stock spring rates, so what I did is look at as many aftermarket spring rates as I could find for the move. H&R, Tien and other versions of RS-R have a rear spring rate of about 3kgf/mm and about the same for the front. Whereas these have 4.2kgf/mm for the rear and 2.9kgf/mm for the fronts. Not perfect, but better than the other brands.
Next is shocks. For the rear I have some excel shock that have just arrived and for fronts have some shocks for a lowered Perodua Kenari on their way from Malaysia.
Thirdly, I have a clutch, pressure plate and throw out beaning also coming from Malaysia. Clutch set up is meant to be able to handle 150hp at the flywheel. Future plans may be getting closer to 80-100hp at the flywheel. But these plans may be a way off yet.
Forth, some maintenance stuff. Wheel bearings and tie rod ends. Will be looking for lower control arms too. Just trying to tighten up the front end and make sure it can handle the suspension upgrades.
Lastly, and possibly most exciting for me at this stage. WHEELS. I have a set of Works Carving Head 40s on their way from japan. Unfortunately, to be able to afford all of these parts at once, the wheel have to come by sea for the cheaper shipping cost and will take 6-12 weeks 
. Size is 14x5 +45. Pic:
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They will look awesome Rob , plenty of chrome available for these things if that’s the look your after.
How did you go with shipping for the front shocks? Are they coming by sea or air, and which company?
@601to602 thanks Michael! Should look good with those smick blinker lenses you sold me. I want the chrome mirrors and door handles.
@Mick actually not sure. Getting them through Sinchan on the fb group and never asked. Got the clutch shipped via ems I think and assumed it would be the same.
Clutch has arrived. Pretty excited to be able to use more than 1/3 throttle without slippage 
Not sure when I’m going to get the chance to fit it as I’m a bit time poor right now. Fingers crossed before the track day.
EDIT: These also showed up yesterday. @Mick looks like they were sent by EMS as they came quickly.
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On my way home from work today my old clutch finally gave up the ghost. I have a spare car to drive, so Bertie will be off the road until he is fixed. I was planning to do some work on him this weekend, but, I don’t know if it will be enough time and I haven’t organised to borrow a engine crane. Guess I can start stripping it down ready to go.
Ironically, I had told @evilhighway a few days ago that Bertie was going well. Jinxed it!
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I’m sorry to have helped with the jinx lol. It lasted a really long time though and much longer than what I had thought. If you’ve got another car to drive in the meantime then you can take your time in changing it. Which can be really good or bad if you get lazy like I sometimes do
I kept putting it off due to lack of free time. Kinda forced my hand now though. I get pretty lazy too, so hopefully can keep motivated
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Small update on Bertie. I was able to get the engine out on Saturday. This was the first time doing it myself and wasn’t able to get my hands on an engine crane. So, had to do it by splitting the engine and gearbox in the engine bay and lifting the engine out .
I was able to replace the throw-out bearing, which was an absolute pain in the arse to get on, just before a storm hit and I had to run for it.
I won’t have time to work on it again until the weekend in 2 weeks time. Hoping to get all the other stuff done then. Fingers crossed.
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good stuff mate It is a pain in the butt the split the engine and get it out that way in my opinion but we do what ever we can with what ever we have so well done. Throw out bearings grrrr they are my pet hate. I either get them in about 10 seconds or I’m stuffing around with them for an hour or so.
Thanks Jimmy, and thanks for the info on Sat. I was in the stuffing around for an hour. It was probably closer to 1.5 hours.
Hope I never have to do another one again 
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Got some more done to Bertie today. Not as much as I had hoped, but, it’s a few steps closer to being back on the road. I wasn’t in the mood to get bogged down in anything, so if something became frustrating, I’d just move on to the next thing. There is something that I might need some help with at the end of this post.
I was able to fit the pressure plate and clutch, lower control arms, new fuel filter, front springs and shocks and attach the new brake discs to the hubs.
This post is useless without pics:
What I didn’t get done: outer tie rod ends. Those things are a bitch!
Also, here is what I need help with. I think there was a transmission fluid leak from where the axle goes into the gearbox. I thought that these seals were called axel seals, however the axel seals I purchased ended up being for where the axel enters the hub. Does anyone know where I can get the inner axel seals?
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Transmission output seals are what you need. Be careful, sometimes left and right are different
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Thanks Mick! I’ll start the search tomorrow
Do you have a CBC or some kind of bearing store near you? That’ll be the best place to start
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