Had a bit more time this morning and I was able to drop the gearbox out:
While the gearbox is out I will replace the rear main seal (I made a quick attempt in removing it today, but it didn’t want to budge. So I’ll have to get a seal removal tool I think) and the flywheel resurfaced (maybe lightened if it’s not too expensive).
Once all that has been done, I have this to go in:
you can try 2 small self-tappers screwed into the rear main in opposing sides and wiggle/ pull it out that way sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t and makes a whole in which you can get long noes pliers in to help rip it out.
I tried 1 self tapper and some vice grips. It didn’t work and I ran out of time. I’ll try the two self tapped trick next time.
not sure if true, hopefully someone can shed some light, I was told that you can’t lighten the cast flywheels as they will be likely to fly apart, maybe the guy that did my engine work just didn’t want to do anymore as he did bodgey a few things with my motor
Good to know Dale. I’ll probably just get it resurfaced.
Mr G lightened my G202 flywheel for me years ago. and it was fine they are the exact same style as the ejde ones. Made such a huge difference and never had a problem with it.
And the one you have in the ol’ Gormsby L200 is even lighter again than the G202 one. L200 style fit EJDE and due to the flat shape lots more material can be removed and still have a good heat sink surface for the clutch.
A bit of frustration with the build at the moment. Dropped the subframe and got the lower control arms out, went to put the left side in (still waiting on the right hand side to arrive) and it doesn’t fit!
worst case scenario is you could remove the rubbers and get that cut and re-weleded over to line up with the mount? then replace the rubber’s
Hopefully the supplier can find the right one and replace it or give me a refund.
I have a few other ones I can order, so have options.
What was wrong with the old ones? Is this going to be registered? If it is not going to be on the road much bring them up here, we’ll push the rubber bushes out make some delrin bushes and chrome crush tubes, this is legal and will improve feel/response. Trim 5mm off the outer of each end to do this and make up the difference with the delrin. If you were to cut anything off I’d look at a spherical inside joint.
Bushes are shot, but as I don’t have a press it’s easier to buy the whole thing with new bushes and ball joint. The car will be a daily, but I’m not against it being an uncomfortable daily. So, I might still take you up on the offer, even if the supplier can find the right replacement.
Maybe just return the ill-fitting ones. We can make delrin front bushes up and maybe spherical bearing in the back for the vertical locator (just thinking it might be a bit time consuming to do the back from delrin).
I had to order the arms from different places, no where had both sides. The right hand side is still to arrive, hopefully it is fine. But I am still keen to get some more response out of the front end.
I ordered replacement oem ones from NMF garage still yet to come, if you can I’d just replace them and find a shop to press them out if you don’t have a press
Had 30mins so put on the drivers side fender brace and rear sway bar.
Plan for the sway bar is to run it on the street with softer spring, then disconnect it and add hard springs for track events.
why not leave it connected and just put stiffer springs in it for track days?
I guess I’m worried it might be too much with the harder springs. I want it to rotate, not spin like a top 
yeh, that’s fair I just know that Daniel Cooper with his move found a rear sway bar really helped on track days. Then again that is trailing arms v’s beam so who knows. You can always bring the springs and tools to test whats better each time out.
Soft springs with sway
Hard springs with sway
Hard springs no sway
should give you the last run or 2 to nail it!
