Thanks rob any particular model I should look for? or from a year on? If you know
You are just looking for three wires in any pics. prob late 90s. When the four wire version went in mine no one had new replacements in stock and it was just as cheap to buy a whole spare car as it was to buy a good used unit. It’s parked at the neighbours across and up the road.
Just curious if you were driving the car when you were checking to see if it was making boost? a Turbo’d motor needs to be under load to make boost thats probably why you were only seeing negative pressure on the boost gauge. Looks like your making good progress with it though, keep up the good work!
if you cant get the turbo ecu to work and you cant afford a stand alone ecu another trick ive seen done a few times is to mount an extra injector somewhere on the intake manifold and wire it in parallel with one of the standard injectors through a pressure switch so its only firing when its on boost. Youll need to wire in a resistor to get the same resistance as one injector but you can easily adjust the mixture by changing the size of the injector. its not ideal but maybe its something for you to look into.
yeh car was stationary while testing the turbo ecu wasnt going to work so i went back to the move ecu. I was playing around with it yesterday and It would just flood when getting up in revs and was a little difficult to get it to a respectable afr on idle. I have gone back to move injectors but yet to have a play with it. i stopped yesterday as it spat a lot of oil out as i discovered the turbo oil return had been sliced due to the engine mount had a lip it was sitting on. I fixed clearance with the hose but had no hose long enough to replace it properly.
I had already thought about the extra injector and there is a spot on the ef/el manifold where the fit in nearly perfectly with out to much fuss.
I also wasn’t getting boost as I forgot to block a breather hose lol. I eneded up getting about 5psi roughly on my dodgey boost gauge with no load.
I was supposed to be out there today doing more but ended up gooing out with my wife and daughter and grabbed the hose I needed while I was out.
the only problem I can think of when using the NA ecu with the extr injecto will be ignition timing, its possible the NA tune could have too much advance and cause the engine to ping. something else youll need to look into
yeh at this point Im not going to have major high boost so it shouldnt be too much of an issue currently. I have seen @FrankEnstein running 26 psi with manual tuning setup with a stock ecu and damn that think was fast. Especially with no aftermarket ecu.
Yeah there is issue’s with ignition timing as you can run full advanced in low revs but does get detonation up higher and under big load. I would just back the timing off until no pinging. Yes it does take power from down low, but it does stop your engine blowing to piece’s lol. But I am working on a fix for the ignition timing. When I get the time to put theory to practice. But even though my timing isn’t as advanced as I’d like it, it still was crazy fast. I have vids on livetodai fb page if you’d like to see for yourself
I also have cam timing cog I can have a play with also so i may be able to find a nice combo between them.
ahhhh you have a distributor on this motor yeah? that makes things a bit easier. is it electrical advance or centrifugal or vaccum?
Normal is electronic controlled. But I have electronic dizzy that had vacuum advance that I want to play with one day…
yeah maybe there is a way to modify the vacuum advance to pull timing rather than add timing, would be worth looking into I rekon
So I got the move running with the move injector’s.
It Idles well and the massive over fuel on higher rpm has backed off. I’ve had to pretty much max out the fpr in idle and it will still only have an afr of about 17.5. With it hooked back to the ecu it is terrible so I unhooked it. I putthe ecu wiring back to the stock o2 sensor and it fluctuates slightly but very reasonable. I think tomorrow I will install the greddy and I should be able to get that idle to a more respectable 14.5 afr with the available adjustment and adjust the other rpm ranges accordingly. I was even going to out my standard fpr on it bur couldn’t find it where i have put it.
I tried bleeding the brakes with a one person cheapie one person bleed kit. well it all seem to be bled but still no brakes at all. I think I will enlist the help one the mrs or one of the kids and do it the old fashioned way with 2 people.
I re-read the emanage manual this morning and realised i can’t tune the idle and can only tune from 2k onwards. So the 215cc camry injectors were too much and the move injectors were to little so i hooked up an extra injector which was a stock mira injector (90cc) and it worked. I dropped the fpr back and now have got it stay at a good afr all the way through. I have played with the timing on the dizzy and the cam gear and have got it all pretty good and adjusted the idle also. It does get a little rich just before limiter but very acceptable.
Now that has been done I turned my attention to the brakes and with help I had to do the back brakes twice as i forgot to check the filler in time and woops. So after the second time It still wasnt looking right and then noticed I had failed to tighten up the passendger side line when i put the brakes on in the first place. Yep a big puddle. Guess waht I have to redo again lol.
After that is done and i clear all the tools etc out I should be able to start test driving.
Can’t wait for it mate!!! Very happy to see this working out after all this time
tell me about it hahaha
ok so i got the brakes done today and started trying to road tune it. I thought I had it all sorted the other day but when I ran the car today it was completely out from what it was. So I started again. I just could not get the damn thing to run good at all it would be lucky to boost at all, was noisey like a tractor and was just flooding (running rich beyond belief.
Around 2pm I took a break and had lunch then went back out cleaned the fuely spark plugs, and backed off the timing a bit more and and backed off the fuel reg a little more and unplugged the stock o2 sensor again.
Holy hell it started running really well. Well till around 80k’s from cruise it did not like to have lots of throttle and had to feather it to gain momentum or else it would just flood.
When I turned around I gave it a boot and I boosted to about 3-4 psi and got to 100 but was still flooding.
I played with it a little more once i got home but didnt take it for another run. I backed the crank timing on the adjustable cam cog back 10 degrees again as I re set it to 0 at the start of the day. Straight away it seemed to run better and even sounded better.
The other thing I want to do b4 I resort to the greddy is to try a standard fuel pressure reg as opposed to the rising rate one I currently have running. Im hoping that may not make it flood like this one is doing. If it does i will go then try hooking up the greddy and sorting it out via that.
- Oh when i say it’s running rich or flooding Im meaning its hitting 10:1 and higher. My wide band can only read between 10 and 20 to 1
and I should have been cleaning for our upcoming house inspection. whooops
I think retarting the cam timing a bit will help it to make boost and maybe you could just disconnect the vacuum hose to the rising rate and that should make it a fixed rate. How are you making adjustments to the emanage? your just using the jumpers and adjustment knobs or are you using software?
If you don’t have the injector loom for the emanage just a heads up, the radio connector from an RX7 is identical, you can save yourself a hundred bucks and the data cable to connect it to a pc can be made using some signal converter thing from ebay for 10 bucks and an old usb cable, you can save another 100 bucks there and the software you can download online for free. If your interested let me know and ill try to find the forums again and post links for the info.
If your using the software and the injector loom you can get almost as much tunability as a standalonre