Evilhighway's Move (daily)


so its Saturday evening here and I have nothing better to do so I thought ill chase up the info for you anyway. I know its like 3am in Australia at the moment so I guess youll have a nice surprise when you wake up and log on :slight_smile:



Thank you heaps Mick much appreciated.
At this time I was just going to use the dials for the emanage and the fuel side. The emanage I got was from an rb26 and it has all the plugs and all the injector wiring also. As the ed10/20 and the efel were both distributor engines. I was just going to use those at this time. I have the software already but In all honesty I don’t really have understanding on how to use it. I have tried looking for some info and or vids but thus far I have come up short,
I will be checking out that link in a bout 5 mins as I need to make coffee first this morning.
In all honesty at this point I just want the car to be running good for the track day in July. I have quite a bit of time to fiddle with it but funds are now pretty low to do much else.

The positive notes for the car is the 4x100 and rear disc pull it up really bloody good, the auto to manual change is spot on and the excedy 3puk clutch is good for this low boost application I think. Its funny too with the 4x100 conversion and all the sirion stuff etc and the different wheels has made such a difference. before hand with the other wheels I had on it you could feel it needed a wheel alignment bad. Now it doesn’t feel that way at all and no steering vibration like it had.


Warmed up the car this morning while doing yard work tried unplugging the vaccum for the fpr it didnt make a bit of
difference in the afr so I hooked it back up and backed off the fpr a little more as it was sitting at about 12.5 so now it sits at about 14.4 on warm idke and idle is around 1.1k rpm and seems happy there. Took it for a spin and it is so much better. not perfect but much better than where it was boosted to about 3 psi and loved it floods a little bur got it to 120k’s on a “private” road and felt that if i turned up the boost it would want more also. all in all Im happy with progress so far and this arvo will be back to yard work :frowning:


I think when using the software you still make adjustments to fuel by percentage up to plus or minus 20 percent, but you can do this over a 16 by 16 map not just for every 1000 rpm, so it would be very similar to tuning an apexi power fc using the hand controller. You also have a tool there where you put in you engine capacity, no. of cylinders, original injector size and new injector size and it will give you a base map to work with. It also has datalogging so you could take it for a drive and see where its running rich compared to rpm and map signal and make adjustments in this area of the map. I think its definatly worth a shot and could help with running bigger injectors while still having a good idle and good afr in the lower rpm.


these are nothing special but might help you get a basic idea of hot to use the software



Awesome work mate, May be worth playing around with throttle enrichment if you can control that.


worked out why I wasn’t boosting that well and woops I didnt have the waste gate tight enough and it was cracking open and letting the pressure out. I tightened it and well it went to about 8ish psi. I also inspected the adapter I made and it seems I need to re weld some of it as it has a few leaks. It has been good though as I am able to grind out the inside more to get the flow better too. I will also take off the dump pipe and check for any leaks i have there also. I know it was a dodgey job when i did it so at least now I will be able to tell how good or bad it is.

Then i can put it all back together again and get back to sorting it out properly.
Oh I need to get a thermostat in it also. I didnt realise it didnt have one in it until i saw how cool it runs on driving.


Good to hear it wasn’t too major Jimmy :smile:


got the adapter for the trbo manifold re- welded along with the holes in the dump Think It should be good now also robbed the thermostat from the move’s original engine and installed that. Almost got car back together again. So hopefully Saturday will see more done.


Ive had the move running for a little while but Im still not happy with it but every time I think I am getting closer I stuff myself up and go a little backwards.
Ive installed the greddy blue yesterday with my standard injectors and an extra mira injector and had the car running ok. Fpr was turned up max and it over fueled on cruise. when I would boost it it would go ok till I would get up to around 6-9 psi and it would start leaning out. It would friggin take off though and wow from the stock old ed20 with auto to this it is a huge difference. I did try adjusting the first dial on the greddy blue and I could adjust the fuel so the idle was a bout spot on but to try and drive and try to make adjustments is horrible.
Today I took out the stock move injectors and put the camry ones back in and I unclipped the power to the extra injector, I got the idel etc all bac to where it was good and went for a drive yes it overfueled big time again. I pulled over and tried adjusting the dials and went for a drive. I couldn’t really get anything proper out of it.

I decided it was time to use a laptop. So I put all dials back to zero and hooked up the laptop. Turned the car to on and nothing it wont connect to win10, Im not surprised but thought I would try.
Spo the hunt of my old lappy’s started. I was using a small one that I could get a little bit of battery out of just a few weeks ago. The plan was to get that and install xp on it. I remember I put it in a “safe place” incase i had to use it for this sort of thing.
We all know what happens to those “safe Places” --------- They tend to disappear .
So for now I have found another old lappy with a battery that lasts about 10 seconds with it unplugged so I can atleats find out (if it will work for me) if my usb data cable is ok.

Until i get this sorted I wont be doing too much. Im still gonna look for the little lappy in the meantime as I really dont want to have to spend $20 on a new battery for this other POS.


Found that laptop and killed it so i have to use another one and have run virtual box on it and I finally found a working copy of xp. so Tonight I was able to get that bit sorted but I will have to run a power cable out to the car as the battery is shit and will die in a few mins with this lappy. If it will hook up to the greddy I will then get another lappy battery. if not its back to struggle town.


yesterday i tried connecting the greddy as stated above and it just wouldnt connect I tied my laptop and then i loaded everything on my mrs laptop and no good either. I then tried loading win 98 and It reminded me how it was back then. as unstable as a donkey on a tight rope.
I decided to leave it and went and had a look at all the muscle cars down the street. Later that day?night I thought why the hell not and try to see if tuner studio would work. so I loaded win xp again and then when I went to load the file from usb to xp through virtual box it wouldn’t find the usb. Finally My brain went ding and i think i have been having a big derp moment. I adjusted settings through virtual box and then got xp to find the usb. By this time it was to late to try anything but I got everything ready and today I will try again now thet the usb port seems to be working through virtual box. So now I have the greddy software to try and also I will check to see if studio tuner works also.


Fail Fail Fail connecting to the greddy via computer no matter what i do is a fail.
the usb port is working through the v/box on win xp and I tried all diff configs to get the greddy software to comunicate and it wont. I tried studio tuner and it wont connect through the auto dectect either. I have come up with another possible reason why though. They are both looking to communicate through a com port and xp isnt will not state that the usb is a com port so. The only other thing i can try at without making me broke is to get an old desktop I have here running xp (I have heaps of old ide hdd’s) as this has an rs232/db9 com port and use a db9 to usb converter to see if it will hook up that way. I may not be able to use it while running but I maybe able to data log and see what its doing.
In the meantime I took Mrs evil for a spin in the move and got her to do some driving while i tried adjusting the dials ont the front. Not a complete success but good enough for the track day. I also have a spare injector wired in incase I increase boost more.
Mrs Evil just said some bad “F” words when I gave it a boot and it took off and asked wtf I had done to the car. So That means that is atleast a success.
The car is still running too rich but it is far better than it running to lean.
for now except maybe a little more fine tuning with the fpr I may I am about done until track day. I Think Im going to start turning my attention to the mira soon.


Great news mate. With my microtech you have to get a proper configed USB to serial cable otherwise it doesn’t work at all. Maybe problem is it’s in the cable you have, not software etc.


yeh thats what I’m thinking but the greddy has usb port on it and to go from new comp would be usb to serial to back to usb which is pretty much a usb cable if they are all supposed to be 5 volt. I can try the older pc I have here to go serial to usb with an adapter, unless its a null modem usb cable which I can get one of those also to see. If not Ive spent a whole lot of cash for nothing hahaha. Im also doing some searching via online and getting more confused. but considering usb cables only have 4 wires then it has to be one of those 2 options… Hmmm well Im having fun trying to work this shit out so thats a good thing. :slight_smile:


ok so after alot more serching and stupidity it seems the cable for the greddy may be the issue. Im going to attempt to make one once I have the parts. for both serial (db9/rs232) and a usb one.


not all usb cables have the 4 wires inside some are simply power cables and only have 2 pins connected
you havent been using one of those have you


no i have tried various cables


don’t forget when you order the signal converter thingy to make your own you need to check the voltage rating! Im pretty sure you’ve got it worked out but incase you forgot the info should be in the link I posted earlier, something about needing one that’s rated to 10v or something like that.
Keep up the good work and keep us posted!


The standard serial port communicates with voltages levels -/+10v, however communication with the Emanage requires a range of 0-5v as it is a Logic Level device. You will need one of these that will accept an operating voltage of 5 volts.

This is what I meant to say :sunglasses: