Thanks Mick yeh usb runs at 5v also thats why i couldnt work it out but using a rs232 to tll converter it should give me the variable to read the 3.3v it needs. Well thats what all my research is saying and the converter’s also come with usb port also now. So I will try one of those first. If that dont work then I will try an older style one.
So ive’ been doing some more playing around with tuning again until the part comes in to make the greddy cable. I just cant help myself I guess. I have let off the fpr more and got it to run very respectable on cruise and not running boost. When I put the boot it it was leaning really bad so with the 3 215 injectors I can get cruise right but not the boost so I added the extra injector and went through the cycle of trying a mira injector which was still to lean, am move one, then I tried a 340cc one and that was way too rich, I went back down to the 215 and that is about the best fit so far. I have it hooked up to a pressure switch and it comes on at about 4psi boost. I took it for a run and it seems fine mostly but for first and second with high revs it leans out but still floods a little with 3rd, 4th and 5th when activated.
I have ordered 4x 270cc injectors . I think if I adjust the boost switch to come on at mor 6psi than 4 with a 270cc injector it will give me that balance between the 2 and hopefully work fine.
I will be keeping the move off the street as much as possible till after the track day and then once I have the cash I will get a mod olate done on it as I really dont like the idea of driving around and worrying about if I get pulled over and getting put off the road for having a turbo, so i want to get that sorted.
That being said it drives perfectly as a around town car and if your just granny driving then its fine as the boost is laggy you can just cruise with not hitting boost very easily.
OH I did get stuck the other day out the back roads. When I put the pressure switch in for the injector I took the fitting I had from the lid of my milo tin catch can and forgot to put the lid back on. I was driving and heard this horrible noise so i pulled over. The lid had got caught in the water pump pulley and forced the blet to wedge itself between the alternator and the pulley. so bad that when I tried to start the car it would not turn over. Armed with a small screwdriver and a 14mm spanner which was useless I fought wit it and eventually managed to get it off there but it sat upside down and on the outer edge of the water pump and crank pulley’s. I could not get it to move from there so I started it and looked like it would hold so I drove the 10k’s home praying the damn thing wouldnt come off . I made it and checked when I got back and hadnt moved from its running position… So i found another bale and chucked that on. I was really licky or else I would have had a long walk as I had left my phone at home also hahaha.
Hey man; re the greddy blue; really sorry u didn’t get the tuning cable with the box, those switches at the side pretty much useless IMO.
In this day and age you shouldn’t have to be stressing using an extra injector.
With a basic corolla pump, set the fuel pressure to three bars with any sized injectors you have. Get the tuning cable and trim and add where needed.
I’ve used turbo statlet injectors(295cc) with no issue. Started off with a 5 button safc, then went greddy blue, then vafc, then safc. I use the afc as I could mess with it on the go and fire my tuner for a while
Just buy/build the cable and leave out that extra injector thing
yeh just waiting on parts for the cable so I can make it and then I will be done with the extra injector. this is just keeping me busy and just trying to get it right manually and seeing what differences fueling does with it.
If i give it heaps off fuel I can get it to boost like hell and spin the wheels easily in second etc but giving it the right amount relaxes the boost more and is a much smoother with less wheel spin and less power but a better tune , but of coarse with that if I put the boot in it responds really well also and makes it much better to drive on a daily basis.
So i got the part today to make the cable and it didn’t work. I tried a different cable and boom it worked. I also had a driver issue too. So far I can get the emanage software to come online and I went to do the update and it says its communicating but it has been about 1/2 hour now so i dont know what the go is I rolled the move into the shed and also put the trickle charge on the battery just in case its on half the night I will give it 2-3 hours as I’m being really optimistic for it to update and work. Uf that dont work i will make sure I dont have my data + & - round the wrong way and try again.
well an hour later nothing had happened . So I thought well I will try changing the + & - data lines and boom it worked lol. I’m glad I did put the charger on the battery. It was dead enough to not start the car. so charge over night and i may be able to start tuning tommorow
Got to give it to you Jimmy, you sure are persistant!
Thanks Mr G It may take me longer than others to get stuff to work or just through my thick head (not sure which). I sometimes work stuff out. hahaha I did kill 2 laptops in the process but they were half dead anyway.
I’m a bit thick headed too. My Achilles heal is electronics. My remote batteries cables need a complete redo. It was all just bits and pieces of old stuff. Got all new lugs today and will get cable Thurs, plus I want to add a circuit breaker coming straight off the alternator. But ecu stuff, gulp. I need someone to help hook up my Autronic or pay to have them sort the wiring.
oh Im only doing fuel atm it was as easy as 4 wires for that (i havent done anything about the tps yet so i will see how it goes) one wire positive, one wire negative and 2 wires intercept the signal wire to the map sensor. one to the greddy from the map and one from the greddy to the ecu. I will worry about things like spark etc later haha
No need for the tps signal with the greddy
I think you will need a tps signal for the greddy but only if you are using the injector loom, if you’re only using it to intercept the map signal then tps signal is not needed. But I read on another forum if you don’t have the right kind of tps then you can wire the map sensor into the tps input and this will also work.
must have been reading the same stuff
I will be looking at using all its features in future as I have pretty much all the wiring harness needed but it will be bit by bit starting with basic fuel for now.
Think I connected the injector pin but we batch fire all 3 injectors at once so there’s nothing to gain from wiring it in.
Tried the timing side also; the ignitor is on the ecu board, so it won’t work.
Would be good if you got it to work though.
The simpler the better for you bro as it’s a piggyback
The simpler the better is a very valid point Fortis I think a boost cut of the stupid 6k on the move and fuel should do fine
How much boost you plan to run?
Which turbo you using?
tdo4 and about 10psi max for the moment until i have a better clutch.
Those injectors should do but the 295 will give u more room
So happy to see progress @evilhighway, you have been building this engine for almost as long as we have been good mates. I am loving seeing you being rewarded and hope you do some good lap times on the track day.
I probably wont record track times. Im there for fun . I will however be heading out to willowbank at some time to see how the move goes. I hope to convince some others to come out too.