I’ve totally b0rked the CV joint, having stripped it all down again the retaining clip is snapped in the CV joint and the thread on the CV joint/hub nut is ruined.
I’ve opted for a new CV joint kit, with joint, boot, clips, grease and hubnut included for £27 delivered. It ought to be here next week. Its all still stripped down so ought to be easy enough to put it all back together over a couple of evenings and then see how it drives.
The brake calipers are also in dire need of a refurb…
I just went to the wreckers and got a second hand drive shaft for 20€. The inner cv joint was broken on mine so i had to remove the driveshaft one way or another.
Fiddle, and indeed, sticks.
The CV joint kit has arrived and they’ve sent me the one for an M3 sirion/storia so it doesn’t fit the driveshaft.
Do any kind souls happen to have the part number for a left hand/RHD passenger side CV joint for a 2004 Sirion M101 Rally 2 to hand? I believe it will be the same as for the 1.3 sport model as well, I do not believe the driveshafts are different between models.
The (incorrect) part I have here is Japanpart GI-624 which is compatible with Toyota 43410B1010 and does not seem to fit.
Try 4341097401
I found an article number for a CV joint made by ‘Febest’, and had this part number. Should be the right one!
Edit: if you Google this part number, you’ll probably see a lot of driveshafts. I think this is because they’re usually sold with the CV joint attached. The article number for the CV joint from Febest is 0910025, that should get you in the right direction. Good luck!
Thanks, perfect!
Got a new CV joint kit ordered up, and an entire 2nd hand driveshaft too just to be on the safe side!
I wonder if anyone can help. Posibly a bit of a longshot but I’m having real issues with these CV joints.
I have ordered two now, and both do not appear to fit the end of the driveshaft. Measuring with calipers, the CV joint splined female section is 21.6mm, the male end of the driveshaft is 23.5mm.
This is with a brand new Febest 0910-025 CV joint kit which is listed as compatible for the Sirion Rally 2 here:
https://www.123spareparts.co.uk/car-parts/febest/p-8717139
This is compatible with the Toyota part number that @Blyatsu mentioned - 4341097401 so I am very confused!
All I can think is that the driveshaft is different to the Sirion Sport - its thicker so the driveshaft won’t fit in the CV joint? I have a secondhand driveshaft with CV joints here on the bench and it looks to be identical. The issue I have is that it came without the hub nut and the hub nut from my old CV joint is totally wrecked so thats not going to be recycled. I ordered two new hub nuts and they arrived today as well. These fit the new CV joint, but are too big for the old CV joints threaded ends so I am doubly confused.
Can anyone help?
Hi, Not sure why they don’t fit, but I can tell you that the Sirion Rally 2 had standard Sirion 1.3 SL drive shafts, CV joints and hubs. Only the springs and brake pads were different on the front end.
Thank you, that confirms my suspicions at least! Both new CV joints have smaller diameter holes where they push-fit onto the driveshaft splines (21.75mm on the new driveshafts vs 23.5mm on the old one) though they have the same number of splines.
On the outer splined section where it goes into the hub, the splined section is too big by about 2mm, and the threaded section that the hub nut fits to is also thicker - 20mm on the old CV joint and 22mm on the new ones.
All very frustrating, as both CV joints I have bought so far have been listed as DEFINITELY compatible and are definitely NOT!
I wonder if either the CV joints I have here are for the smaller 989cc engined versions, or for the later M300 sirions? Either way it doesn’t help me currently. Grrr!
Ah man, that sucks! I really thought that would be the right one. It was the only part number I could find for a M1 1.3, so hopefully someone else knows what’s the deals with these. 
I’m on holiday currently but i can measure the outer spline of the CV joint on the M300 next week if that helps.
I gave the old CV joint a good clean up and discovered some part numbers stamped into it. I don’t know if these help - certainly they didn’t uncover anything particularly useful on Google, but one has the code:
64 79LAC NTN 381
stamped in it, the other - attached to the secondhand driveshaft has the code:
43 79LAC NTN 223
Stamped into it. Both have ‘79LAC’ in common. Here is a detailed diagram of the key measurements
Anyone able to help at all?
Now this is just bizarre. On page 983427819934 of Google results for ‘79LAC CV Joint’ is a link to a PDF of Metelli CV joints matching to original part numbers. 79LAC is an OEM Daihatsu part number from a 1988 - 1992 Charade 3. Looking very closely at the specs, it does indeed have 24 outer splines, 21 inner splines, an overall diameter at widest point of 75mm and a 57mm outer shaft length - identical to what I measured on mine.
Some further google fu of the corresponding Metelli part number, 15-1294 turns up a couple of these on ebay, for a not unreasonable amount of money. The specs on the ebay parts seems to tie up to the Metelli catalogue and whats on my car.
The question I have though is why on earth does my Sirion have what I can only assume is 1988 - 1992 Charade 3 GT-ti (G102?) front hubs and driveshafts?
Everywhere I have looked, the Rally 2 should have the driveshafts that Blyatsu mentions above, but they categorically do not fit the driveshaft or hub on my car.
goes away to have a lie down
I ordered a Metelli 15-1294 CV joint kit today, it should be with me by the middle of next week and I’ll see if it fits. The seller gave all the critical measurements which agree with what I have in front of me, the only observation is that the total length of the metelli unit is approx 8mm longer than the CV joint I took off the car, which I hope won’t make a big difference - the additional length is in the threaded section the hub nut does up onto, the length of the main body and splined section is the same.
I also ordered a new hub nut from Toyota for the second hand driveshaft I have, I hope that will be with me by thursday of this week.
What a blinking carry-on! I wish I’d just used one of those wretched split CV boots you wrap around the driveshaft and then glue together now!
The hub nut, part number 90041-79274, fitted perfectly. I collected it from the local toyota main dealer, a ‘bargain’ at just £17.86 for ONE SINGLE NUT.
All it is fundamentally is a flanged M20x1.5 nut, I considered a generic one from a fasteners place but decided that since it, you know, holds the driveshaft to the hub and all, it was probably better not to skimp on specification.
It fits perfectly to the CV joint on the spare driveshaft I got, so thats now ready to go straight on in case the next (and last!) new CV joint is wrong again, but I hope it won’t be and I can just deal with the CV joint and boot and be back up and running.
At some point quite soon I need to remove the engine to replace the aux belt and clutch, so that will need the driveshafts pulling out the gearbox anyway. What is the correct specification gearbox oil to use? I’ve seen 75w85 and 75w90 recommended. The gearchange from cold is currently pretty notchy, though it improves when up to temp, and is actually really good if you’re giving the car a good thrash - slow work in 1st and 2nd gear in traffic is less rewarding though…
I’ve used Redline MTL gear oil in several cars with good results, can anyone comment on its suitability? Also, how much will I need for a gearbox full? I think its 2.3 litres by the looks of things but would appreciate any info anyone has for the Sirion M1 specifically.
I use Redline Lightweight in my Subaru Gp N DCCD gearbox and heavyweight in my R180 diffs. Really good stuff when it comes to handling heat. Shift feels a bit better with it than a the highest end normative brands I’ve used.
The new (to the power 3) CV joint arrived and had the right number of splines on both the inner (driveshaft) side, and the out (Hub) side. This is where my luck ran out though. The joint itself is physically longer, knocking the hub alignment out of wack and preventing the hub from turning properly. Its also got a m22 thread which fits through the hub fine, but is too big to be able to get a socket onto to tighten the nut up.
AAAARGH!
So plan A has been abandoned.
Onto plan B. Take it to bits.
I need to replace the clutch, which on a sirion rally 2 is an engine-out job. While the engine is out I will also replace the aux belt and its tensioner which is virtually impossible to access in situ. Last night I removed both front driveshafts, drained the gearbox oil after making certain the fill plug would undo (!), unbolted the gear linkage from the gearbox end, undid the bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the downpipe, removed the battery and took the air intake stuff off as far as the throttle body.
Next I need to remove the throttle body and inlet manifold, then unplug as much of the wiring as possible in prep for pulling the engine out.
My plan is to hold the engine and gearbox on an engine crane, unbolt the subframe from the body, then lower the engine and gearbox on the subframe, while lifting the body up on my tilting lift. I reckon that all I really need is about 18" separation of the two parts to allow me enough access to pull the gearbox off the engine and get at the clutch. With the two parts separated, I can move it all over towards the passenger side to give myself much more access to the aux belt and tensioner on the left side of the engine so I can get a socket on the tensioner bolt rather than having to use an open-ended spanner and chew the bolt up even more.
One done, I can rebuild it with the 2nd hand driveshaft on the passenger side which is a complete original unit, with both CV joints fitted, boots, the whole lot.
I need to borrow an engine crane for this job so will be a couple of weeks I suspect. For now I’m just doing the prep work that I am able to do by myself.
Hi, you shouldn’t need to take the inlet manifold and throttle body off, there should be plenty of room.
Don’t forget the steering shaft knuckle.
Good Luck.
Thanks - where is the easiest place to access the knuckle? Back of the engine from the top or bottom? How does it come apart?
I got to it by the pedals inside the cabin, but I’m sure someone else here may have an easier way to get at it.
