Nice job
I got my bolts and nuts in for rear shock absorbe upgrade:
I also bought some spare wheels 15inch oem
I also installed rear speakers and got my third interior light in.
Meanwhile it passed the mot inspection without advisory
[quote=“enshiu, post:22, topic:6724”]…RDW is 200 en plates 35euros…[/quote]You would be better off with a German RDW. In the Nertherlands, criminals are allowed to perform these:
Details, here: Butchered 601’s diary - Projects builds and rides - Live To Dai
RDW cost 200 is for the Importfee they take over the old inspection report if it is still valid
50 Euros and passed just ago 2 weeks. An Independent inspection shop did it.
No need to go those shady shops. I dont have a minimalist APK car like the average car in Netherlands.
I dont hack saw suspension parts which is illegal in any EU country.
I just bought the correct part and correctly fitted.
Lowering springs dont come loose when lifted up.
It had Tuv till 21 Sept 2024.
We have here in several of them in Noord-Brabant and they only do Inspection NO Repairs.
Why go to the shady shops if you can repair by yourself?
I have been to them for over 9 years no issues.
I also installed my rear cabin light:
[quote=“enshiu, post:45, topic:6724”]…Why go to the shady shops if you can repair by yourself?..[/quote]Why is the Dutch government tolerating these shady shops? When fatal “accidents” occur because of unscrupulous certification, does the police simply write these off as only “technical causes”?
I didn’t bring my vehicle to that shady shop. This was the certification handed to me upon purchase. I’m assuming that the previous owner has sought out this shop, in order to sell a dangerous vehicle under falsified pretences
I didnt have a inspection here. It was in Germany done. When I have done here it was at my trusty inspection shop see above.
If I was assured that the authorities would crack down on them consequentially, I would then have approached them with my own falsified technical approval, years ago. From what I’ve heard, as soon as authorities close these shops down, the former proprieters simply hand over these shops to a relative of whom open these shops back up
I got my 2017 Auris Estate Hybride rear shocks on my Cuore.
Some small mod on the lower mount to make it fit.
I got also my car aligned
With some help of Subaru bolts and nuts OEM I got them correctly fitted.
The oem lower Auris bolts are too long and I sold them.
The top bolts and rubbers fits straight in, if you have the bushing from the Auris.
after 11500km +/- my MAP sensor is dirty again.
185630km is the total odometer
My fuel consumption was steady 4.1L/100km average
this week it went to 4.6L/100km average
So I exchanged my spare one for the clean one.
Also cleaned the intake manifold with carb cleaner
I changed my oil again after 8158km.
Its getting dark and a lot steam after opening the oil cap
fuel average is not correctly shown due bigger fuel tank. I am using 4.1-4.2l/100km
most dais oil change should be done every 5000k’s. especially ejde and k3 engines.
1krfe says 12000km I will do with 7500km.
In Europe EJ-VE and K3 also says 12k oil change
I use 5w30 C3 or ILSAC 5w20
8k is what I did for my EJ and it would never actually be that black. Anything over 10k I don’t personally trust, whatever the OEM claims.
this was a little sludged engine. desludging itself
Got my Leather L275 steering wheel from Japan. This is a better version than they have here in Europe.
At least, it’s easier to hit the horn button on these. Locating horn buttons anywhere but in the middle or onto turn signal stalks is just plain stupid and should be outlawed.
Would replacing wheels on L5 and 6s with these be a simple plug & play affair?