Yup.
I still see areas to improve and I’m only using 15psi.
It’s not a high power track, so I might just let it stay right there.
I feel there can be even better lap times after ironing out that issue with the pump, nankangs on the back and also more driver development
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Nangkangs are good then.
I had tank surge in LH corners before cutting the tank up for the exhaust to be able to travel straight through to the back. There were some changes I made to the internal catch bowel inside the tank too. Esp putting a lid on the bowel. Lid is attached above the fuel pump so closes off once installed.
Noted; imma see if we can fab up something before I go track
Gonna also look through your thread for an example
From memory, I never did show the internal tank work. You’ll only find pics of the finished cut and shut tank from the outside.
Ya I realised.
Gonna just run a full tank around the track and hope that works
Another concern is the high pressure build up on the tank, the vent line for the tank is open to atmosphere, yet since I changed the pump there’s a huge pressure build up in there.
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Projector headlamps reinstalled; the projectors weren’t retrofitted properly before, so I returned them to be sorted out
Low beam
high beam
all packed for the race weekend
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Any more info on those projector beams? Did you just buy them or are they something you modded? Would love some more info.
Pardon me,I just realised I’ve never posted details on them.
I bought a pair of morimoto mini H1 from theretrofitsource.com. They many different projectors, their aim is to make the retrofit as easy as possible. I didn’t take note of the size of the projector, when I got them i found out the reflector bowl was too shallow, so had to cut it out to push them back.
They have smaller projectors; the morimoto matchbox, which possible should work. They don’t recommend 55w in the projectors as they burn put the shroud
I’m using 35W hid and it performs like my 55w kit in the L275s. Both are generic hid kits so its proof the projectors really doing their work.
Scoop finally installed
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Good day all. Track weekend is over. It was a really good event. Had myself a lot of fun and the crowd loved it.
My issue now is loosing traction on the back end,seems now that I have the front bite the rear is sliding. The car still has some body roll. Need to lower the rear but still have the soft spring rate so the rear doesnt come around
Here are some pics and vids of the weekend 
The team
Race 1
Race 3 was a wet race. My confidence was low from the Saturday as I spun out in an area I’ve never spun and couldn’t find the reason why. So didn’t trust the car. But my team boosted me for the last race
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Tires. The Sumitumos on the rear won’t be a patch on the Nankang. Also even though you’ve still got std rear springs the damping could be way off. That slow steering too would make it hard to catch the back. Wow, you are doing damn well with what you’ve built.
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Thanks man😁
Still have some driver development to do, my lines were messy
I have a mira EPS rack and pinion. I’m thinking of installing it.
I steer the l275 faster than the L500.
Think this will help?
Next is the EPS is just a box…I’m guessing it just needs am ignition and ground singal to work 
EPS are usually speed sensitive, so they get a digital signal from a speed sensor and accelerometers. I don’t know much about them. Ken tried a Nissan one in the yellow Datsun but had trouble with the electrics. He then went to a Vauxhual one that had an aftermarket plug and play electric unit available. Here is a bit more info on the how they work
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Modifying-Electric-Power-Steering&A=111532
On driving, I think some of your apexes are a bit early. Powerful front wheel drive with no LSD - wide entry, turn earlier, square off just a fraction and straighten up for a later apex. Apexing late should have you on the power earlier and with a more settled car for less wheel spin when the power comes on. I need to do some video analysis of myself, and hope to start doing that between runs so I can start fixing mistakes.
Do you know what I mean if I asked “are you a left foot braker?” It’s not for everyone. It’s something I’ve been doing since I started driving so it is natural. Can help balance things mid corner.
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I’ve been tempted to do it on track but not comfortable enough just yet. With my traction issues I think it would help a lot
So on my way home from track, I notice my voltage just dropped and then the cat cut out. Pulled off and smelled burning from the starter. Saw nothing that could be the issue.
Jook started the car and all seemed well. Drove on home. Now I pulled up the starter and found it’s burned. Gonna try find out why this happened. If anyone has a starter I could purchase or could help me cross reference one that could work I’d appreciate it.
The 99 Coure on my market are automatic so having a hard time finding a replacement
Ouch. I have a few starters, but there are about three different bolt patterns. Could prob send one if I knew which one. Local rewinding places here repair stuff like that, but not cheap to have done.
That’s the part number.
Gonna work on getting that other part we spoke about earlier in the year.
I’m away from home most of the weekend but will see what I have laying around.
Just throwing out some ideas and would like some feedback. I’m thinking of doing a dual sway bar set up at the front.
What you think?
Should I do something to tie the rear? If so, what do you suggest
I think if the front has too much sway bar it will cause oversteer or too pointy and make the rear feel tail happy.
That’s just from my own track experience.
For me the softer I went in the front to a certain point the car was less twitchy and much more stable in the rear. I kept my rear swaybar but went to the softest setting as it’s adjustable.
I have mates who race improved production and actually removed the massive front sway bars and installed a softer front bar and also went softer slightly in the rear too.
At QR my friend done his best lap ever without a sway bar in the rear as they never had one from factory anyway and a 18mm front bar.
(This is all in GT starlets BTW)
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This usually happens when the ignition switch is faulty.
If you don’t replace the ignition switch you’ll blow up another starter within days or weeks.
I see this stuff happen every day as my job is to rebuild starters and alternators.
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Not sure why you think you need it? Front wheel drive needs max front grip. Bar will not help with that. If you need more spring rate then that’s what you need. Use the smallest possible sway bar, and for a track car the benefit of sway bars are “make them adjustable and you have a way to make on the fly or almost on the fly adjustments”. So let me explain why sway bars are not a great thing - they do not help with diagonal weight transfer. Okay they will stop some roll, but the diagonal weight transfer goes from corner spring to the opposite corner spring. I only run the std big front one because it serves as radius rod also. But I hope to add either a separate radius rod adjustable for castor and anti dive or go with lower A arms. I have run cars without sway bars at all, esp for rougher surfaces with lots of linked turns and undulations. But I also ran front tapper wire (progressive rising rate) springs on that set up.
I played with twin sway bar set ups on an Mazada Rx2 back in the 80’s and found them not to work.
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