RED ROOSTA aka ANGRY BIRD

Will look onto it. I had a remote starter button mounted in the bay. Gonna check if that’s the issue.
Probably should also fuse the circuit. Don’t think it’s fused

@Mr_Gormsby and @Paulep82. Thanks for thr advise. I was really just throwing my thoughts out as they didn’t have logical reasoning to them. So your shared experience and details help put things into context.

@Mr_Gormsby, you’ve continued to stress on the point of spring rates. That’s what i’ll be focusing on. Im going to get this car right and do you all proud :muscle:
Quick pics from the meet going through the esses:
FB_IMG_1508377034427
FB_IMG_1508378036859

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Could you please give some pointers on areas in the ignition to check. I’m using a push to start button. The parts I can think of checking are the relay and verify if any wire in the circuit is poling out

Make sure the button itself isn’t wobbling loose. If it is… then it may engage the starterby itself.
It might also be smart to check how the relay is wired and if it functions properly.

Every electrical circuit should be fused in some way.

If further everything checks out oké then it might be smart to check the ringgear on the flywheel for burs or other damage.
What did the teeth of the starter look like?

That’s the funny thing, the teeth on the starter didn’t look knurled in any way, so I was puzzled if it really engaged while the car was running

The constantly engaged straight cut teeth of starter and ring gear would be audible.

Was driving with no exhaust on; hear “something” but thought it was the alternator belt slipping; so that could’ve been the sound.

I have started from the Auto Trans, pressed out the middle section. Starter works but doesn’t turn the engine…wonder if the winding is different

GOOD NEWS! GOT A WORKING STARTER

So all I needed to do was change the front and rear cap of the L500 starter; the internals are the same. Just to remove change the top piece that stops the throw of the gear and presto…found this out after being somewhat upset and ordering a used unit all the way from Ireland :roll_eyes:; still doesn’t hurt to have a spare so whenever it reached…like month end November lol

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Good day all.
Need some help. Im seeking a LSD for my EJ gearbox. Only thing I’ve come up with so far is the 1.5 way from Dsport. Anyone know the details of how to purchase from them? Does that diff need a different type of CV cup?

Hard to deal directly with dsport due to the language barrier might be best to use a third party sevice. Uses the std cv cup.

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You could try emailing or calling I’m sure someone there would speak english worth a shot.

Have had a really busy week and been away from home most of thet time. Had trouble with a new 1.5way at the hillclimb on the weekend. Worked really well at low speed with the car turning in better than ever (as a 1.5way should), however, on the highest speed section it would go open under brakes and stay open. This was a Cusco. The dealer is already sending new plates to help with this. Point being the communication issue could really be a problem. See if you can someone to deal with that can provide some support. https://www.cusco.co.jp/cusco_catalog/238/#zoom=z

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Thanks everyone. I usually make Japan purchases through sendico. So going to try them

@Mr_Gormsby why did you not choose the 1 way. Asking as I’m still trying to understand how they work.

You know I was having a look at the cusco catalogue and didn’t remember thr K3 diff is the same as the EJ

I see what you’re saying re getting aftermarket support though. Cusco has some dealers in Europe; my gosh it works out twice the price of the D sport :face_with_head_bandage::weary:
Any suggested dealers you deal with?

So far I’ve found these people https://www.race.fi/en/product/44791a/cusco-lsd/151-8795/daihatsu

One way goes completely open while braking. Might be okay for drags but for what we do the re-engage fraction of a second is not desired. Also it affects braking. Having some diff control can transfer braking force side to side on driven wheels. Some F1 teams ran front diffs for a while on their 2wd cars to stop inside front wheels locking up under really hard braking. FWD really needs 1.5 way or 2way for asphalt or 2 way for dirt action.

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WOW; it’s been quite a while since I’ve last been here…Christmas went, New Years and so did my birthday.
Thanks to all who sent wishes. Hope all is well with the Dai family.
I do have some updates to share. Well not a lot of stuff; the race season ended with a 14.8sec pass at the drag strip the best time I’ve done so far.
I decided to take all I’ve learned from the 2017 season and try to make myself better for the 2018 season. So some sacrifices had to be made.
I had another L500 project I was going to do but decided to sell it and use the money from that to help out with acquiring some items for 2018.
Got myself an early Christmas present :grin: 1.5 LSD for the L700 gearbox I’m running.



Now little did I know that an LSD needs a particular oil and breaking in. So after installation, I had used my amsoil sever gear oil. Just reversing the car I heard popclank* the steering was fighting me jus moving the car its like it was possessed.
Having conversed with others who have experience with LSD and doing some reseach myself I got to realise two things:

  1. With a clutch type LSD, an anti friction additive is suggested to be used to lower the chatter. I opted to use AMSOIL SLIP lock. It was like magic

  2. Break in the LSD; found an open lot and did some figure 8’s at low speed. Don’t throw on power on it aggressively on it for couple hundred KM, as one wants the clutch packs to seat properly.
    The instructions were in Japanese, could not read it, not even google helped, but them I saw this diagram

After the new year I decided to refresh the engine. New rings and bearings and another block which I had put down. So having to break in a fresh engine with the LSD was good timing for me.
Used three new pistons…because I could #startfreshanddone

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Recently had a track day to feel out the car. I was trying another camera angle as I had expected to have someone in the passenger seat. So pardon the glaring in the video
I wanted to do the laps with the Sumitomo on the front but since it had rained earlier and I decided to do the laps with the NS-2R up front.
I was way more comfortable driving the car around the track into the corners hard without having to worry about wheel spin.
Still have some suspension tweaking to do at the rear; sadly time is against me with even getting a chance with the car in the pass couple of weeks.

Race day is set for April 1.

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wow!
you know your way around that car - every little detail!!!

well done!

the pistons you are showing in the photos? is this a before and after shot of polishing?

Thanks man

Yes, that’s a before and after polish of the area. Reduce any hotspots.

Got some 560CC Evo 8 injectors installed and went in for a retune. Made 120hp on 16psi and 150hp on 23psi.
Happy with the results

April 2nd was our race meet. Quite an eventful weekend. Loosened flywheel bolts on the Saturday and also found the right CV spline cage split in 3.


Fixed that had a good qualifying session the Sunday. Then Monday during lap 3 the right axle snapped. #endofmyraceday.

Car feel so much better with the LSD.
Now to find a solution with the axles and sort out the rear suspension.
Here are some vids of how the weekend progressed

Practice

Qualifying

Race

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“Rear suspension”, still!

Long or short shaft breaking. EfiMira did a couple of axles, I think I’ve still got a broken one hear. And that was with his viscous LSD.