Sirion autoX build random questions

R/H shaft is different shorter and the inner cv has a long inner shaft to go through transfer case into diff housing.

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yeah the right side has a shorter cv shaft. the floor pan is identical only difference is the mounts are further forwards, spring seat and upper shock mount are the same from what I can see, and there are 2 extra mounts on the 2wd for the fuel tank on the 2wd but the holes are there for the 4wd fuel tank bolts just with rubber grommets in them.

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this is the only other photo I have of the rear axle at the moment, will try to get more soon

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@601to602 where did you get that photo from? would love to know the part numbers for the shocks and springs, Im having a real hard time finding anything aftermarket for the rear

Iā€™ve been collecting picā€™s of the storia x4 driveline/underbody for years lol. Partsfan.com for all daihatsu jdm part numbers models including the m111s. Look to japan for aftermarket shocks springs as the m112s and m111s where used for motorsport in japan you can sometimes pick up quality ohlin, bilstein struts shocks springs etc.

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Bilstein would be great, its a german brand and I think it would pass tuv easily, for the front im going with Mr Gs advice, the eibach springs which should have a similar spring rate to standard and Koni inserts inside the original strut legs, both of which will be street legal here. But for the rear ill really need to stiffen it up quite a bit and unfortunately the awd doesnā€™t have a rear swaybar so I have to get the stiffness from the springs and shocks alone

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Daihatsu sirion rally 2/4 competition parts and cars on facebook.
https://web.facebook.com/groups/1408435919378790/

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@Mr_Gormsby Im sill trying to fully understand springs, im hoping you can help me out.

if you have a fixed rate open end spring and you remove one coil, does the rate remain the same or does it increase or decrease?

If I was to buy springs with the same free length and mean diameter but with increased rate, the ride height would also increase correct?

So first I would need to calculate how much weight would be over the springs.
then calculate the spring load for the desired spring rate so I can figure out what the free length should be for the desired ride height, correct?

then once I know what the free length needs to be for the correct ride height at a specific spring rate then I could contact a company like eibach for example and say I need springs with (x) free length, (y) spring rate and (z) mean diameter and in theory they should say something like ok we have part number abc123 for $69,99 that matches these specs, order today and receive a free bumper sticker??

and finally, could you help with said calculations?

The longer a constant diameter piece of wire is the lower the spring rate. As the wire get shorter, such as when cutting the coil, the spring rate increases.

So everyone has a clear understanding lets describe what ā€œrateā€ is.

Rate is the amount of weight it takes to deflect a spring one Inch.

A very common mistake is to think that spring rate is how much a spring supports. How much weight a spring is designed to support is called ā€œLoadā€ or ā€œDesigned Loadā€ orā€Load Rateā€.

When you say ā€œmean diameterā€ you mean external wound diameter as there is also wire diameter. Yes if they had the same length the one with more rate would make a car sit higher. The higher rate spring could be the same static height and have the same diameter wire but the wire length would be shorter. Or you could have the same length of wire but itā€™s diameter thicker to get more rate.

Iā€™ve only ever started after having driven a vehicle, figured the new desired rate and do the math. Not sure I can help other than suggesting your find an online spring calc that works for you and use that data. Spring compaines are ususally pretty helpful.

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and you think I need around 500 lb/in for the rear yeah? The reason i was asking about the load is because this is useful to work out the lenght when sitting in the vehicle rather than the actual free length yes? and yeah by mean diameter I am referring to the average between the I.D and O.D of the spring Ends or the O.D minus the wire diameter

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I have found a Chart from Moog springs that Shows the free length, load, spring rate ect. for each spring then when you click on the part number it shows the apliccable vehicles so then ist easy for me to order a pair of springs though work from eibach or bilstein or sachs ect. for said vehicle

ans for the Shocks i gues ill have to take whatever i can get, there seems to be very Little avaliable with a clevis on the bottom and a Loop on the top. there are a few clevis-stem types avaliable but then ill have to make a Loop Adapter to screw onto the stem.
And im sorrz for the shitty spelling and grammer, im on the work Computer and the german autocorrect and Keyboard is giving me a hard time

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500lb would be my starting point. But I might change that guess if I knew the actual rate.

what do you mean by the actual rate?

ā€¦the actual rate of the spring installed in the car or as specā€™d by factory.

ahh ok, is there a general rule of thumb for this for example a certain percentage more than original or something like that?

update:
so the blue car now belongs to me, managed to talk them down from 600 to 450.

Before I start on the AWD conversion I will take another look at the car on the hoist and confirm the drive for the rear axle isnā€™t just coming from the RHS front diff output, if that is the case then to me the conversions seems almost pointless. Plan is to hold the right wheel and spin the left and vice versa to see when the rears are spinning. I will probably do this tomorrow if I have time.

Im also in the process of finding out what it costs to have the AWD conversion approved by an engineer. A friend from one of my work mates has done something similar with an Opel Cadet but he had to replace the complete rear floor pan and this cost him 600 to get approved. He said the process was fairly straight forward, first he confirmed with the TƜV engineer that the conversion was possible, then took the car there after he did the work and let them take a look at the welds before he used any seam sealer or paint ect. I figure if it cost him 600 to get a whole rear floor pan from another model approved then the 3 mounts on the sirion should be a piece of piss. I would also need to take the car there for the brake conversion anyway so ill aim to get it all looked at in one hit.

I now have part numbers for adjustable rear shocks to suit the AWD rear end from a UK company called GAZ (part number is GT6-5285 if anyone is interested). @Mr_Gormsby have you ever heard of them before?

I think progress could be slow from this point on, im working full time, Monday afternoons I have physiotherapy for my back, Tuesday and Thursday afternoons I have Sprachschule (German language school) and the other days I guess ill be smashing out overhours to help pay for everything. I also have a problem with the daily car (Opel Corsa) the oil light is coming on under 800 rpm. Im praying its just the oil pressure switch and not something more sinister. If I end up with 3 cars that arenā€™t driving I think the mrs will kill me, so if you donā€™t hear from me for a while im probably dead and you should call the police :sweat_smile:

And, tomorrow is my birthday, so if any of you feel like buying me a gift ill happily take a 3SZ cylinder head or some Applause rear brakes :laughing:

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As it is already tomorrow here.

Happy Birthday Mick

I had seen the Brand Gaz but only in literature and web adverts. A quick look at their website and I think theyā€™d be worth a try. ā€œEach shock tested and comes with certā€, so yeah why not.

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ā€œHappy Birthday Mickā€ :thumbsup::clap::grin::star2::beer::gift::tada::fireworks::sparkler::confetti_ball:

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