Happy Birthday Mick!!! 
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another real quick update before I head off to work, so the TUV guy who does our roadworthys cant approve modifications like the awd conversion or brakes, and the guy who can only works Wednesdays from lunch onwards (sounds like a pretty cushy job haha) but I have his name and work phone number so ill try to get in touch today. Ill also post my findings with how the AWD functions on the sirion this afternoon.
And thankyou all for the birthday wishes, much appreciated
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just checked out the awd system, the rear axle is driven when either the front left or front right are turned by hand, so the awd conversion is on the table pending how much it costs to get approved.
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I also have a set of 15x7 JDM style 5 spoke rims, they look real nice but they have been sandblasted. Im planning on painting them but its the first set Ive had that have been sandblasted, normally I just sand back the original paint till its smooth then use normal primer and then paint. But im curious how I should go about painting the bare aluminium, should I use an etch primer first or is there a special primer for bare aluminium? then I guess ill also have to use a primer filler too because the surface is a bit bumpy after the sandblasting. Can anyone share their experience and or information regarding this?
cheers
I’m not much on sand blasting. Glass bead or walnut is better. Single pack epoxy etch, light coast. High build two part industrial urathane primer/filler and two part induatrial urathane over top in the say session. You don’t want to have to do any sanding, rims are a bitch. Top coat over a primer filler that is still fresh will give chemical adhesion. If you let it dry they your rely on a sanded surface for mechanical adhesion. (Gorsmby went from high school to trade school and was a motor body and coach spray painter for eight years before going to uni).
I don’t have any spray guns unfortunately, all my painting experience is limited to spray cans, but I am the Da Vinci of spray can painting 
what could you recommend for someone in my position, just an etch primer then primer filler?
can you get urethane filler in a pray can or is it only available in two pack?
Two part means U-mix it. So no can get int spray tin.
Etch and paint. Spray tin filler will promote little adhesion.
ok, thanks for the info.
quick question regarding tyres, have you seen the Westlake sport RS semi slicks? maybe you’ve used them before or know someone who has, just wondering if youd recommend them or not.
Not seen them. But looking at the only spec I could find it said they had a 240 treadwear rating. That makes them “hard”. I was using 180 on my road car and the Mira uses 80 (which are fairly soft).
yeah I was looking at them because some mates have used them back in Aus but only on the road, and they seemed to go allright. They are cheap enough, only 80 euros each, so they fit my budget but it would be nice to find out how they hold up on the track.
what tyres do you run on the track car?
Nangkang AR-1. are on now but I am yet to drive on them. Prior to that Nangkang NS2R, which I was very impressed with and had run them back to back with a compareable Dunlop which was twice the price.
im planning on running semis on the 15x7 rims and normal all season tyres on the original rims, and changing them over at the track. You think something like the nankangs with a soft compound would last a full season?
Can’t say exactly. Will depend on your set up. With an LSD and good wheel alignment sorted it is likely. If you can reduce wheel sping yes they would prob last “my season”. On mine, yes I can get a season plus.
just curious what nankangs cost in aussie dollars?
$135 tire only no fitting or balancing, add $15 if they have to do that for you. I have a tire fitting machine (not workign right now as I have to put some new valves in) and a Biesbarth balancer.
that’s about 90 euros, so similar price to the westlakes. Is that price for the ar1 or ns2r? and your running 15" wheels yeah?
Used Ns2r last year. Discovered the AR1 this year and have switched to them on the front, have an old set of Dunlop Direzza in 120 compound on the rear. They will be changed latter on, but rears last forever, that is if not rotated to front. To many bills for now.
so im still deciding weather to save a bit of money buying the westlakes knowing they wont perform as well but will last longer, or spend a bit more on the nankangs knowing they will perform better but wont last as long.
Still looking for prices and availability on 3SZ cylinder heads and intake manifolds
Counting down the days until Wednesday so I can call the TUV man and find out what this conversion will cost
Trying to contribute to the page wherever I can
Battling a hangover from Saturday nights capers
Hoping to actually START on the build in a week or 2
I have decided to skip the rear brake upgrade for now as its proving difficult to find the parts here in Germany, but I will go ahead with the copen fronts
still smashing out overtime trying to get some cash together to fund everything
Think I will start another thread once I start the build just to show everything I actually do and keep this one going for its intended purpose, random questions. I know there are a few people here interested in a 2wd to 4wd conversion thread, I will try not to disappoint 
oh and the daily is fixed, it was infact an oil pressure switch, a simple 4 euro fix and its good as gold
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