Hey Mick I have a question for you. I was wondering if you could have a quick look in the german move manual for me to see if it states what size the fuel injectors are at all? Ive been trying to decipher it a bit with no luck so far.
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Running really good tires is an enlightening experience - youāll never want to go back to inferior ones. As far as ekking performance out of something good ones are an excellent bang for buck.
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@evilhighway I had a real quick look and didnāt find much. If the injector size is normally in the Daihatsu workshop manuals let me know what section its normally in and I can jump straight to that section and look there. I had a quick look in the electronic injection (Electronische Einspritzanlage) section and all I really found was the test procedure which said with fuel pressure connect the injector directly to 12v for 15 seconds and measure how much comes out and you should get between 30 to 38ml of fuel and a maximum difference of 5ml between each injector. Maybe you can use this to calculate cc/min otherwise if all else fails I can get the original part number and search it in google or ebay and see what comes up, but I need to know what motor is in the L601 so I can look it up on partsfan
I even could look it up at work if I knew your build date and engine type
Yes I am leaning towards the nankangs, they also seem to have a lot more sizes available than westlake which should make things a bit easier. Ill have to mount some old tyres on the 15x7s and take a look at what sizes fit and what donāt.
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Yeh not to worry mick Its of no biggie really I have decided to go with my camry 215cc injectors and shave the exc
ess fuel off them instead of using the move injectors plus an extra one I have wired in. But when your at work if you could have a quick look the engine is an ed20 and the build date is May 1997. 847cc engine.
Just thought it may be good to have that info for everyone 
Mate, im sorry I couldnāt help you out with the injector size, the ED20 was only for export so nothing on partsfan, we donāt have a listing for injectors on CoParts at my work and I cant find anything reffering to the injector size in the manual. Best I can offer is using the information from the test procedure to work out they should be somewhere between 120-152cc most likely 136cc
Thankyou Mick I appreciate it heaps I had no Idea how to work it out sometimes my brain donāt work certain ways. My guess of them were they were about 100cc as mira are 90cc and they CR of 9.8 where as the move has 9.5CR . I was also thinking they maybe more as the H series injectors are somewhere around 120cc but it really gives me a better idea of where to put the upgrade bit with the greddy. But First Im having issues with the greddy linking with a pc. It may have been a DuD buy and may have to only play around with the dials but i should have it sussed by the weekend which way i can go with it.
i remember reading somewhere you Need a pc running Windows 98 or xp, the newer Windows OS wont run the program or somthing like that?
Also ive been thinking alot about your build and i have an ides that might make Things a bit easier for you, if you run the Standard injectors and use one of the aux injector Outputs for your extra injector. That way you dont Need to modify the Standard tune at all, you would just Need to map one injector, and only half a map at that as when the car isnt on boost the extra injector wouldnt be needed.
Maybe ist somthing for you to look into, but i wish you luck with the build
Im only using the greddy blue for fuel at this point I will look at injector control and spark later when i have more cash and after the track day in July. (i have to pay off my credit card first lol). Because I have gone from a standard 66.6mm piston which the ed20 came out with to a 72mm piston form and ejde my standard injectors lean out way to much to use them just by themselves even at no boost, I already had a 90cc extra injector wired in. I can sort of get this ok with or without the greddy.
I have gone to the 215cc camry injectors which run way too rich and with the greddy dail I have atleast so far been able to adjust down the idle to a respectable afr.
I have organised my laptop to hook up today with xp and also got a new usb data cable as mine takes the usb cable over the older ones that had the older comm port. If this all works I can set up my fuel map much better and maybe able to get away without using the extra injector for boost. if I have to have the extra injector for boost (if the greddy dont work or i still cant sort it) then I have a boost switch I can adjust to use it to come on. Itās like a hobbs switch but only $9aud as opposed to $30-50 aud. So either way I have potential solutions.
I cant test the car this weekend as the town has a big festival on called āChrome and Clutterā and the main street is blocked off with car displays etc from11am till 9pm and far too much traffic around. Same this in on tomorrow also.
I will update my build thread as I go so you can see what I have worked out
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Thisā¦ A million times thisā¦ You can have a relatively stock car but pay up for really soft tyres and you will notice a massive differenceā¦ Unfortunately the trade off is most super soft tyres go to shit once heat cycled a few times, but Iāve never used the nankangs so canāt really speak on thatā¦
I have used ad048, ad050, r888ās, z221ās, and fz201s and no set has lasted any longer than 3 or 4 race meetingsā¦ But good tyres are incredible, imo defs pay up for the best you canā¦
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Iām an internet sluth man, Iāll have a look tonight when I hey on the pc and find it for youā¦
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Depends on event type too. On a circuit you should be able to get tires up to 80deg C. For hillclimb or Khanascross youād be lucky to get 40-50 deg C depending on track surface temp. With circuit temps the tires can be really good and then performance falls away suddenly. For the shorter events (HC and KC) the tires will prob just get harder over time such that performance falls away slowly. With a really light car itās hard to get enough temp in the tires. To get serious you must have a durometer. Check the tires before use, outer edge-centre-inner edge and keep a log, check after the event, write it down, check before the next event write it down and so forth. I have a set of highly used but not significantly worn AD048 in M (short sprint/qualifying) compound that have, due to age turned into, MH compound (durable track day). So, yep, heat breaks them down.
Al Stean (my old boss and rally/offroad guru/competitor) who sells Hankook race tires has said that after an event āput your car on stands or pull your race wheels offā¦as just letting the tire sit on cold ground can affect that one patch of rubberā. He sells methyl salicylate which can rejuvenate old tires a bit.
Iāve used the hard (180 tw) Ns2r Nankang and liked them better than an equivalent Dunlop Direzza (Nankang were 10mm wider (despite same size designation) with a squarer tread on the outer edge - which prob makes up for the extra width) and seem to fall away more progressively over the life of the tire. The Nankang As1 (400tw) I have tried and they are rubbish, but donāt confuse them with the AR1 (80tw) which I have a set of but am yet to try.
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What kind of events were you competing in? Keeping in mind that slalom courses are often very short like khanacross. I completely understand what your saying about going straight to some mega soft compound but my problem is I really would like a set that will last a full season, if that means losing some performance then unfortunately thatās what might have to happen. I think in my area there would be race every other weekend for about 6 months, actually I think it could be more for the Neidersachsen Meisterschaft, If I have to buy a set of tyres every 4 races it starts to become a very expensive ordeal, especially after taking other expenses in to account. Im trying to work out a solid plan and budget to get the car ready for next season and be somewhat competitive, but at the end of the day even if im just consistent and make it a full season ill be happy as a pig in sā¦ regardless of what im ranked or if I win anything.
A wise man once said: If you wanna finish first, first you gotta finish.
All short events. Hillclimb is around 50sec or less than. Khanacross might be 90sec. Sprint might see up to 10min on the track with a sighting lap, a couple of warm up. If you are only doing speed events (you are competing against the watch rather than for track position), have a light car and not over 150hp you will get your full season twelve events easily.
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MrG, you are running the sirion struts and 4x100 stuff in your car, what tyre size are you running? or more specifically have you had any problems with tyres being too tall and scrubbing on the spring seat of the strut?
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195/50/15 on a plus 35 rim 7" wide. Not sure about a std strut, since My spring seats are lowered (everything was shortened), they do not fit. Before getting ill a few weeks ago I was doing coil overs so I can fit the wheels (rear fit with my big mods) to the front. With my ride height they also foul on the inner guard at any more than 10deg turning of the wheels and I do not have sufficient wheel travel. Much body work about to happen and will finish the struts. If I see a std Sirion strut tomorrow Iāll slip it on and try a wheel.
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you are a legend, thanks for the info!
I would like to keep a relatively low profile, when I drove the awd back to the workshop from the wreckers it felt like the final drive was quite tall and the easiest way to combat this would be tyres with a lower profile. Im thinking maybe 205/40/15 or something like that but it really will come down to what sizes are readily available. I just hope I donāt have issues with the 15x7s scrubbing on the inner guard or on the wheel arch. It would be a shame to have to stretch on some 185 or 195s and lose the extra width 
unfortunately im a bit crook at the moment and didnāt get a chance this weekend to do any test fitting.
and im hoping I can start swapping over the running gear next weekend, but im still chasing the illusive TUV man 
195/50/15 has huge availability world wide due to use on MX5/Miata. The only other common sizes that come close are 205/50/15 and 225/50/15. A 195 fits perfectly on a 7" and I would say is the optimum combinations.
Hope you are feeling well soon.
With the sirions you actually have to watch for scrubbing on the rear suspension arm more than the wheel arch. I was running 15x6 +38s and was rubbing with 195/50s.