Sirion AWD conversion/ autocross build


So I got the rears finished, just waiting on one handbrake cable stay to arrive from Aus.
Got the brakes bled, which was a mission because the rears were completely disassembled and the hand brake mechanism had to be swapped into the new pistons, in any case there seemed to be some air in there that wasn’t coming out easily.
Afterwards the brake pedal was still a bit spongey, I think its a combination of new brake pads all around that need to settle in and the master cylinder in now probably a little too small. Threw a few bucks worth of 98 in the tank, threw the trade plates on and took it for a lap (about 6 kilometres, the same route we use for test drives at work, a few lefts and rights, a short burst on a main road with an 80k limit, a nice right curve and a few more lefts and rights) at first the motor wasnt running right, not much power, seemed to have a slight miss and at WOT it seemed to have even less power. I gave it a boot on the main road and bang!
Anything seemed to happen, power came on, all was fantastic!! It felt like something was blocking the exhaust and in this moment blew out, but I dont think thats actually what happened, My guess is the vvti had no oil in it from sitting around forever and only being started for a few minutes at a time, probably stuck on full retard or something, and took a while to get pressure up and engage again. Towards the end of the drive the brakes were also beginning to feel much much better, but I think another master is definitely on the cards in the future.
I have also ordered some number plates, HB-M102, (HB is the area code) unfortunately its not M111 or something like that, but after trying heaps of different combinations and checking regularly hoping something would become available im taking this as a win.
News on the racing side of things is on the 23rd of this month I have a training session at an airstrip nearby and a technical inspection with the Deutsch Motorsports Bund, then the first race on the 2nd of April. Unfortunately suspension tuning and good tyres wont be finished, but the car will be running and registered, and ill try my best to get some points during the first couple of races until I get that sorted out.


Great news. Very excited for you.


Awesome work!


Awesome; another Dai heading to the track. PLEASE try to get some vids of your runs.

We both have a race event on the same date. All the best to you with your preperations


I will have the action cam strapped in :wink:


Handbrake stay has arrived!!!
Who would have though such a small insignificant piece of metal could have caused such a hassle!? I probably could have made one but I didnt have any steel thick enough and ive been a bit lazy lately :sweat_smile:

I have also found a solution for the master cylinder! From what I can tell the standard M1xx MC is 19mm or 3/4", and after checking out partsfan I found that the spacer between the brake booster and the body is the same part number between the M1 and M3, which means the M3 brake booster should bolt straight in. This will let me fit the 20,6mm or 13/16" MC from the M3, and if this is still too small the replacement MC from Jakoparts is listed as 22mm or 7/8". I found a MC with brake booster from an M3 on ebay for 40 bucks, its on its way and should be here by the end of the week. I will have a crack at fitting it and share my findings :grin:


So, master cylinder hasnt arrived yet unfortunately :cry:
So instead I gave the car a quick polish, swapped the hood which had a few dings in it with the hood from the parts car, painted the hood, mirrors and spoiler in metallic black and tinted the fog lights. Now its really looking nice. Unfortunately I ran out of clear coat so they’ll have to come off again sometime for a few more coats and a polish, but now I can see the colour theme will work and suits this car :grin:


Looks great. Looking forward to some videos of it running and racing.


Master cylinder is here :grin:
Lets hope it fits…


Full on panic mode here, pulled out the old master cylinder, found it was leaking into the brake booster, so that was the problem, no big deal. Had a crack at fitting the M3 master cylinder and brake booster, the brake booster is larger and will fit with some massaging on the fire wall and if I have the spacer which goes between the booster and fire wall, which I dont have :frowning_face: so I pulled the master cylinder from the blue car… also leaking. Now I have 3 and a half days to find a solution, otherwise I wont be ready in time. Please guys pray to the car gods, hopefully I can get this sorted out in time!:pray:


i marvel at your thread all the time.
great work!
if you don’t make this race - you’ll make the next!!!

hope you find a solution anyways!


Thanks mate, I try my best. I have ordered what I need and it should be here Thursday :crossed_fingers:


Got a bit more done today, changed all the oils, fixed up a few small things, and did a cut and shut on the fire wall to make room for the new brake booster.

Im more or less ready to go, just waiting on the spacer for the brake booster, gotta clear coat the mirrors so I can put the doors back together, and hope my number plates make it on time.


In a rush here to get everything done In time, parts arrived today, got the brake booster and master fitted up. Bit of a pain to mount the reservoir but I jimmyed something up, but ill sort out something better in the future. The whole deal with the master cylinder has been a rushed job and it will definitely be redone soon. Ran out of time so I didnt get a chance to bleed the brakes but hopefully they bleed up ok. Also threw a new set of spark plugs in and took care of a few more minor things.


Best of luck!


Ahh guys a lot of stress for nothing, got my dates and times mixed up the training session is on Saturday! Got the brakes bled and they are working perfectly, got the mirrors clear coated and fitted, helmet has arrived, got my licence plates, all registered and insured, only problem now is I took it for another test drive and it needs a wheel alignment although that was to be expected swapping the complete front end into another car, and it feels like the shocks are a bit sad too but thats also not a big problem either with new suspension going in over the next few months. With the extra time I will do a better mount for the brake fluid reservoir and maybe clear coat the hood and wing.


Give it a heap of negative camber and a few degrees of castor. Toe it out 1.5 to 2mm on the front to make it want to turn. Toe the back in a tad also.




At this stage I only have toe adjustment in the front, rear is live axle so cant do anything there :frowning_face: from eyeballing it it seems to have a bit too much toe out on the front, when driving it wants to wander a bit and not hold straight. Im looking at possibly adapting golf I adjustable strut tops to fit, over here they are readily available and relatively cheap, they have 2 studs similar to the daihatsu but they are further apart. I would also like to give it a bit more castor but im not sure at this stage if ill modify the swaybar or if ill get some adjustment from the strut tops. Same deal with camber, maybe ill throw some adjustment bolts in where the knuckle bolts to the strut or if it will be done through the strut tops. Anyway the next thing will be some more poly bushes and a set of tyres, then ill focus all my energy on suspension. Im also thinking of taking a coil out of the rear springs, the rear sits too high and the eibachs are variable rate with a few coils closely spaced, if I remove a coil here they should still fit in the seats properly, but this will just be for the time being, with some fiat springs going in later. I think for now ill just back off the toe out a bit so its a bit closer to 0 and have a crack. Another problem I have encountered is the circuit breaker for the alternator is too small, the alternator is rated at 50 amps but when it peaks its too much for the 60 amp circuit breaker. Ill have to step up to an 80 amp breaker :unamused:


Check the rear at least with a tap measure to see if it is toed in or out. Of course hard to know if the axle is steering a tad one way or the other. With the rear driving it will get the tiniest rear toe in the plus. If toed out it can be bent to correct it. For front camber you can always slot the strut knuckle top holes. Bolting them back up tight they won’t move. That keeps the top mounts std. If you can go to adjustable do that when you can. I’d take a rear coil out, will also increase the rear rate and will kill some understeer.

You are nearly there Mick. A fantastic journey you’ve taken us on with the build.