I don’t think these relays have anything special in them, they’re just $10 four post relays from Jaycar.
You should take a volt meter and see if the relays are operated.
Also check if the ecu has all his power and ground lines connected.
I think you will find the ECU pin XU7 grounds when switched, I believe you should have 85 connected to 12v+ .
To test simply connect a volt meter to XU7 and ground, then again to XU7 and plus, and see which combination yields a reading.
Typically ECUs do not provide +12v to a part, but rather ground a part that is connected to +12v.
Also make sure your ECU is from a non Immobiliser vehicle, if the ecu is programmed for an immo then connecting to XU7 will not work…
Also, if your efi relay is also not switching, make sure you actually have 12v at engine fuse no.2!
There’s 12V at Engine No.2 fuse, but no power at the relay end. I’ve taken a multimeter to the original body loom and found another switched 12V supply, it’s coming from pinout 1. Now on the pinout diagram pin 1 is blank on the carby model diagram, but on the ED20 diagram it says pin 1 is for MGC, magnetic clutch. Once I connected that the ecu main relay and fuel pump relay turned on and the fuel pump primed for a few seconds.
85 is connected to a switched 12V
The engine still only cranks over, the battery is slightly less than 12V, it varies between 11.26 and 11.86 since I’ve done so many cranks.
I’ve probed the coils and injector plugs, the white wire in the coils as well as the black-yellow wire in the injector plugs are all receiving power. There’s fuel pressure, around 45psi.
Well now it seems the starter motor is jammed. I’ll smack it a few times with the hammer later on to see if it frees up. My car is next to my 19mth old son’s window so I don’t want to wake him just yet.
Main ground block is connected near the cabin fuse box, ecu main relay ground is bolted to the frame in front of the passenger door, engine ground block bolted to the intake manifold and battery ground bolted to the chassis and gearbox.
I’m still certain that I have never had a 3cyl dai (EJDE or otherwise) that had a immobiliser only the GTVi that I (it was Tim’s acutrally) had briefly had such. I’d prob still have the key barrels and keys so will have a look.
Do the immobilised ones allow the fuel pump to prime though?
I feel like it’s firing, the exhaust is getting hot but when I release the key it turns off. I’ll post a video on the fb group.
Back to basics then, Are the injectors firing?
You can just stick an LED in the connector and see if it flashes.
Do you have spark?
If injectors and coil are firing you can rule out immobiliser.
Is the distributor timed correctly?
Are the crankshaft and camshaft timed correctly?
Make sure you have enough voltage while cranking.
And make sure you have all power and grounds connected to the ecu.
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Injectors are firing, tested with an led in a plug. Also checked to make sure the plugs are in the correct order, they are since each one is so long.
I have spark, a small rod in the end of coil pack touching the head resulted in sparks.
There’s no distributor, the ef-gl uses coil packs, same as the ej-de just in a smaller 660cc package.
There’s no way to test timing with no spark plugs leads. I have a Hella timing light but I’d need to buy a single spark plug lead so I can put between the spark plug and coil so the clip can ‘bite’ down on it. I’m under the understanding the ecu controls the timing when there’s a distributorless system?
I’ve had to swap batteries today with my other car as the Daihatsu’s one got too low. Unfortunately I don’t have a battery charger here, but I can charge it at work. For now I’m using the Hyundai’ s bigger one.
All grounds on .
Engine loom…
Battery…
Body loom…
ECU relay…
Power drops down to around 10V when cranking.
All power wires I’ve read that need to be connected have been…
XR3 - Constant 12V
XV0 - Switched 12V
XR4 - Switched 12V
Plus the constant 12V to both injectors and coils.
Interesting it’s running now with the key released for maybe 10 seconds then dies.
Also, if I even touch the throttle it’ll die instantly.
Here’s a crazy thought, perhaps the 1ltr injectors are too much for the 660cc engine and it’s flooding, causing it to only run briefly or dieing straight away if the throttle is pressed.
What do you guys think will fit straight in that’s available locally? ED-20 or EF-EL maybe.
- Edit, ED is too long by the looks.
Check if the plugs are wet after it’s run, if they are then check the coolant temp sensor! If the temp sensor is defect or unplugged the ecu will richen the mixture. If the temp sensor is disconnected then the ecu will think it’s -30°c