Not wet, but sooty
James suggested I lower the pressure on the fpr but that made no difference.
Today it ran much longer 40-50 seconds.
It was suggested that I need a one way valve in the brake booster line in case it’s causing a big air leak. Tomorrow I’ll try after work to block the brake booster line and disconnect the IAC valve and give it a start up. Maybe it’ll work, maybe it won’t.
When I had the engine out i had to replace the cam angle sensor as i snapped the original off. The replacement one was off a EJDE out of a Sirion, except it didn’t fit the plug on the EJDE engine loom I had. So I had to swap plugs over, luckily I was given the plug aswell. Now I’m pretty certain the sensor can’t be adjusted in regards to what angle it bolts in as it only has the one bolt hole and little plastic guide bung that slots into the hole in the head. Correct me if I’m wrong there.
Also, I was asked if the engine was firing backwards. Daihatsu engine’s fire clockwise correct?
The engine spins clockwise (all engines except for Honda spin clockwise)
The cam sensor could be the problem, as far a I know it’s a Hall sensor which means 5v+, ground, and signal. Have you connected it correctly?
Do you have the possibility to read codes from the ECU (does it have an OBD connector or some blink codes?)
Also, did you check the temp sensor?
And regarding your question about the cam sensor, no, you cannot adjust it.
Here’s a video I took of one of the longer runs before it shuts off…
Mick, the triangle shaped temp sensor being the one next to the coolant lines going to the radiator is plugged in.
I connected the two wires to the newer cam angle sensor plug the same way the old one was. If it’s faulty it works enough to run the engine for a short time as it obviously doesn’t start with it unplugged.
Still odd that the engine shuts down as soon as the throttle is pressed though.
Did you have any luck with codes? Find an obd connector or some way to get blink codes?
No mate, the obd2 connector is in the Sirion/L7 body loom, my L500 body loom doesn’t use an obd2 connector being it’s from 1996. It was able to flash the ecl to give codes pre conversion, but that’s cut out of the loom now, not even sure it would be compatible with an ecu that uses a obd2 port.
Silly question, is the ECU for a car with Auto Trans? If so, Have you grounded the park/neutral pin?
I’ve no idea to be honest, but it wouldn’t even start if that were the case yeah?
Were you able to watch the video?
Sorry, video wasn’t working before, I just watched it now. It definitely looks like something is amiss there, but I don’t think it’s the voltage to the ECU, more likely a sensor or something.
Couple of questions, are all spark plugs fouled the same? Was the car running fine before the conversion? How is the fuel quality? Are you using a proper EFI filter?
Did some digging and found some info on the ECU (I assume it’s the same, it’s from the EJ-DE)
If you connect the test pin on the OBD connector to ground you can get blink codes.
The test pin is pin 31 on the ECU
Should help you narrow it down, if not then go through and double check the ecu connections/voltages, here is a table
Also check you have pin 11 grounded
If all else fails, please double check the coolant temp sensor is working, if it’s defective the ecu will register-30°c and overly richen the mixture.
Another question, do you have a random 3 pin triangular connector hanging somewhere on the engine loom not connected to anything?
Hi Mick,
Thank you for your detailed help with this, it’s much appreciated.
I’ll go through your questions.
The spark plugs are all fouled the same way.
The engine was running fine before the conversion, it just had a worn out carburetor that would make it run rich.
Fuel quality is good, always ran 98 octane in it. Tank has between 1/4 and half in it.
Proper EFI filter fitted. I actually work at a filter store so I picked out one that would suit the position I installed it in.
I’ll have to cut the OBD connector out of the ejde body loom and wire it back into the ecu, as well as the check engine light.
Those diagrams are different to what I’ve used and use a different numbering system on the pin outs.
I don’t even see a manual transmission earth on my diagram.
Based on your diagrams pinout, 11 is one of the non connected wires.
There’s no random triangular connector hanging around, the only one in the engine bay like that is the coolant temp sensor plug.
When I originally used the EJDE body loom in my L500 there were I think 2 extra plugs like that hanging around but I removed that body loom and refitted the L500 body loom.
The only plug hanging around now is a single pin one around the back of the engine, near the alternator/rear engine mount. That might be for a knock sensor but my engine doesn’t have one fitted.
Came out of one of my old Dais. I’ve never had an auto.
So I connected the manual transmission earth at the ecu, nothing changed when starting. Although it backfire a bit before starting, could be weather related as it’s cold and raining today so the engine’s stone cold.
Wiring in the obd plug will have to be a weekend job, I’ve only got about 20-30 mins to play with it when I get home.
For some info, the body loom plug on the ECU has these numbers not wired up…
12, 34, 58, 52, 54, 31, 29
Along with that there is a green plug next to the ecu of which I was fairly sure has the injector (black-yellow) and coil (white) switched 12v lines, which I wired in of course. There’s three other lines in that plug, but I’ve no idea what they’re for. Yellow, yellow-red and white-red.
Also, test results of the coolant temp sensor with the car on but not started…
2.98v when plugged in and 4.99v on the plug when unplugged.
Throttle position sensor…
Yellow - Red .50 closed and 3.87 full open
Brown - Yellow .01v closed and open
Blue - Red 5v closed and open
MAP sensor…
Blue- Red 5v
Brown - Yellow .01v
Red - White 4.35v
There is a service manual for the EJ engine, in the EFI section you will find the wiring diagram
Thanks @Mick , that’s different to what I used and looks more thorough.
Been suggested the timing might be out from jumping a tooth maybe as I mentioned there’s more gasses then normal coming from the head breather. Something else for the weekend to look at.
