I actually purchased 9 metres of wrap earlier in the year, but it’s probably the cheaper stuff. It’s like this…
I was going to paint the door frames and sides of the doors black so you couldn’t see the white, I guess I thought it would be easier with the doors and hatch off. Can always rehang them after the paint.
As far as seats go, Sirion is probably the easiest to get a hold of here, but I guess everything non standard needs modification. I’m 6’2" and not skinny, I did find the factory seats not that supportive so originally thought something like Nissan 180SX/S13 or WRX. Or I could just get my boss to bring me in some L5 Avanzato seats depending on costs.
I’ll still need to repair the ripped out seat nut…
I hope it’s enough, from memory I needed about 15m to do the Sirion, but I did have a few accidents and had to throw some away.
It’s easy enough to do, just make sure the surfaces are clean. The glossier the paint the better
I hope so too As I originally measured it exact not thinking about any accidents. Can always order more if I need to I guess.
The whole body has little scratches and bits of surface rust that I was going to sand and prime. I was going to scour the whole body, but now you say the paint has to be glossy I’m not sure now as there’s no chance it’ll all be glossy.
Just trying to sort the radiator fan out. It’s wired at the ecu to the rad fan relay but won’t switch on. I was assuming the 3 pin coolant temp sensor gave the ecu the signal, but there’s this single female spade connection on the same black wire going from the fan relay to the ecu. If I ground it to the battery the fan will turn on and stay on until I take it off regardless of temperature. This makes me think this connector was on another temp sender but I can’t see anything on the old carby manifold, engine loom or on the head it would connect to.
this seems to be a curse with me with all Daihatsu engine changes I have made (unless it’s using the same original parts) I had the same with my move and now with my mira. Those, were not controlled by the ecu and turn on but by the thermo switch getting warm at the switch temp and ground and therefore turning on the fan.
With this build I tried 2 different thermo switches and neither worked. Both times I just ran a manual switch into the cab on the dashboard that can either come on with the key or flick a button I prefer to come on with key but have button to turn off if battery is low etc and need all the cca i can get lol
That’s exactly how the previous owner had it setup, via a toggle switch on the dash direct to the fan and battery. But his reason was so he could have it on most of the time as he drove around with a cracked radiator.
Not sure if I want to run the factory airbox or get a custom intake to put a pod over on the left side behind the headlight but the pod directly on the throttle body is just temporary.
That would be cool, fluro pink over black.
The light of the day in the pics doesn’t show the actual colour, it’s actually deep forrest green, a deep flat army green. You can see the green better in the bumpers and the inserts I’ve painted deep flat black.
I sort of with it was the pink and black 80’d theme lol. I loved those colors back then. Would just need "OZONE, TURBO and SPECIAL K "graffiti on it hahaha. (I hope you know what I’m referring to or you will be like WTF?)
