Yeah, so I’m sure what I’m doing to be honest.
I haven’t really come across a manual for this gearbox to help, exploded pictures, etc.
It’s been reassembled with pics during its first disassembly.
Everything looks fine, the only thing that seems wrong is the tab on the selector shaft that slots into the three slots on the three shafts seems to not stay aligned and can go into either side of the slots.
At this stage I think I’ll now keep an eye out for another gearbox, either 4 or 5 speed. This way is just too frustrating doing it solo, with no one here in person that may be able to help. Also no point it taking it to a gearbox shop, it’ll cost be way more than the car did lol. I have posted an advert on Gumtree, I received two messages, both from the eastern states. One said $400 for a 5sd, the other said $280 for a 5sd and that they’ll pay postage which I thought was a bit odd. I’d prefer to buy local or source from here or L2D on FB.
Or two slots will interlock and jam if the tab on the selector shaft misses them
But having said that, if I align it all, fit the gearsets back in and close up the case then shift the shifter, it’ll change gears normally. But it did that when I first reassembled it aswell. So I don’t trust it enough to bolt it all together again for it to jam in first again, not sure I’ll be able to handle it.
I wish I knew gearboxes to help but in all honesty it’s not an area I have delved into at all.
It’s okay, it’ll end up working it out.
I even searched for an old Haynes or Gregory’s manual just to get that exploded view of the gearbox but they don’t do Miras by the looks of it.
Had Exclusive Jap Parts Imports in SA email me to say they’ve got a reconditioned 4sd for $695. Bit pricey for me especially if you add freight ontop to get it to WA.
So came across the factory disassembly and reassembly guide for the gearbox. Looks like I’m missing this detent that stops the shafts for 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th from moving too far…
I guess this is why the selector shaft tab has been able to jump out of the slots when they travel too far and misalign.
I’ll have to salvage a detent from my L80 4 speed and hopefully that fixes it.
The missing detent refitted with a replacement from my L80 manual. Now the first two rods shouldn’t move out of position.
The case is back together and sealed. Shifter shifts through the gears okay. Just have to bolt it to the engine.
So I believe I’m done. Haven’t taken it for a street drive yet as rego is due and I’m paying that on Wednesday. Moved it under it’s own power back on forth along the patio and the gearbox is working mint, no 5th though due to worn gears.
Just need a bit of advice here, I’m fairly confident it’s correct. The radiator hoses; the one off the thermostat goes to the bottom of the radiator and the top radiator hose goes next to the thermostat and has the heater core pipe coming off it.
My thermostat, which is brand new, is taking along time to open. 15 minutes is the longest I’ve waited while idling and only then it only opened after the engine was turned off.
Lots of little things to do now…
Finish painting the interior from white to black
Replace front seats
Install stereo and speakers
Replace hard/damaged front door window and door seals
Replace tie rod ends
Replace lower ball joint arms
Remove old tint and replace with darkest legal stuff
Fit the stainless steel extractors
Fit some sort of roof lining
Fit a water temp guage and aftermarket water temp sender
I also purchased an EJDE airbox, it fits but fouls hard on the top radiator hose, I guess the L7 radiator top hose is in a slightly different spot. Could possibly cut the front right of the box and flip it backwards, plastic weld it or something like that. Otherwise I can sort some sort of CAI box out, for now I’ve just fitted a small pod filter.
So just came back from a 20 minute test drive.
Off the bat, it’s alot slower and less pokier than when it was a carby which is dissapointing. The exhaust note is also alot louder too for some reason.
Also, when I put my foot down to get some high rpms it just wants to break down for lack of a better term. It’s like it loses power if you drive it hard. This is all not going faster than 70kmph.
I’m taking it to work tomorrow so will be doing 100kmph most of the way.
I’m not sure what it’s problem is but if this is the way it wants to be I wish I stayed carbied to be honest.
Just maybe some teething issues and will sort itself out hopefully.
It does soot a little bit from the exhaust at idle. Perhaps it’s over fuelling since the injectors are meant for a 1ltr and mines only 660cc. The fuel pressure regulator is set at 42psi at idle, I could try turning it down a couple of psi at a time and see if it makes a difference.
Probably not a bad idea.
It’s down to 25psi (won’t go lower) which isn’t good but it drives better. Still running rich which you can smell and see with the soot exiting.
I’m going to say the ejde injectors are far too big for the 660cc. Probably be ideal if I was running a turbo, but not for n/a. I’m going to have to find smaller cc injectors that fit the head and ejde fuel rail and have the same impedance if I want it to run correctly.
I don’t suppose anyone would know off the top of their head what else fits? I guess it’s not everyday you need smaller cc injectors.
I will have a look through what I have here and see if mira fuel injectors are the same size or adaptable to fit. I will have to try to find where I have put my injector bag. Mira ones may be a touch longer from memory as I have had soem 320cc injectors in a mira head that came off an ejde engine and I had to make the rail slightly shorter. so if I am correct you will have to use some washer’s to space the rail out.
oh efel injectors are 90cc from memory
went for quick hunt and I hadnt buried them as far as I thought. The ejde one is on the left and is considerably shorter than the efel one.
I do have 4 of these efel ones but you would need to get the seals etc for them and work out if you can make them work (using seals and spacing out the rail also). Physically they do plug into the ejde electrical connector’s but no idea on the fuel rail side and for on the block you I think they maybe ok with the ejde bottom seal on them and pushed tight by the fuel rail or a thicker seal maybe.
If you do want these. They would be your’s for $20 which would be Postage cost is included and the balance would be paypal fees and the rest a donation to forum. Let me know if you want them to have play around with. They have been in various parts of my sheds for years. lol
Probably the way to go, although my boss has a blown 660cc turbo JB-DET 4 cylinder from a Copen at work. It’s injectors are the same physical size as the EJ-DE but I’m not sure what CC they are. I’m trying to find that out now, but if they’re too big then I’ll probably buy yours.
90cc is so tiny lol
I would definitely give the copen ones ago
So hard to find injector sizes, but I think I found out the 660cc Copen ones are 230cc.