Wouldn’t the battery ‘see’ out of the terminals?? 
Looks very similar to the Fullriver HC20.
Great little batteries that you can put anywhere!
I know you’re pretty handy, but Motorsport Australia do a battery mount for the HC20 and if the dimensions are similar the PC680 might fit. *also for reference for other peopl.
Battery Mounting Bracket Alloy – HC20 – Motorsport Parts Australia
I’ll make my own for a similar price but it will be exactly what I want
And that is the way to get exactly what you want.
Figured you’d be able to mock one up easily enough.
For some of the less-inclined, we have to make do 
that looks fantasic. What happened to the other one you were re-doing?
I completely hashed it. I’ve wanted a genuine Nardi for some time but was being cheap
It happens to us all. It looked great to me. Is it repairable?
It could be but the repair would exceed the value of the wheel.
Isn’t that a general Daihatsu thing hahahaha!
A thingy was converted.
Distributor relocation partially done but not dialled in and won’t be until the engine is built.
I’ll be honest, the fact it clears the heater pipe is dumb luck. This was never taken into consideration.
I’m wanting to move the clutch cable and mechanism back towards the firewall to gain more room for the carby now. I might also mount the sealed AGM battery under the seat.
Head has been dropped off to Knight Engines, funny part was him saying " this looks like a Charade head, what is this from?"
Looks to be getting 38 mm inlet valves and some porting on the inlet and exhaust, upgrading valve springs too.
Just some pictures the engine builder has sent me for the head.
First the after flow rates on the standard inlet, exhaust, and a comparison
A new seat has been cut for the inlet valves which are coming from an early 90’s Astra (I’m thinking it’s a GM family 2 engine)
Old valve on the left, new one on the right.
Next up is porting the inlet and exhaust, he seems to think there is another 30 CFM hiding in the head.
Based of his information the maximum this engine could make n/a with big camshafts and a lot of compression is 69 HP.
A rule of thumb is CFM * 0.25 gives estimated HP per cylinder.
69hp is damn decent for a 2 cylinder
Here are the flow rates after porting.
Inlet
Exhaust
This is an overlay of before and after.
Dark Blue is ported inlet
Lime green is ported exhaust
Light Blue is original inlet
Red is original exhaust
Needless to say I am happy with the results. Some Crow Cams springs to suit 4 cyl Ford and Mini have been provided on Riley Hopkins recommendation. Initially they only tested 5 pounds higher than stock but with a 0.120" shim they are up to 90 pounds.
Some 0.120" spring seats are being machined to hold them in place as standard shims could allow the springs to move out of the spring recession in the head.
With the data that’s been provided the engine builder said with a big enough cam and 13:1 compression the engine could manage 90 HP n/a but the cam would be very narrow on power, wouldn’t make power until 7000, rev to 9000, idle at 1700 ish rpm and be a pig to drive until it hit 7000.
Probably a good idea I’m supercharging. It won’t rev as high but I can still make similar power with less rpm on the standard cam.
I picked up the head Friday evening from Knight Engines. The head has been finished and saving for 6 months before I give them the bottom end. A brief discussion about compression ratios has the engine builder on the idea of 9.5 to 1 being fine with my recurved distributor limiting timing to 18 degrees.
Here is the head minutes the parts from a complete gasket kit.
I’ll add those bits tomorrow.
Do the rocker shafts have oil holes top and bottom? If so, I’d recommend looking at blocking or restricting the size of the top ones. Force from the springs means the force is only on ones side. I’ve had them break on race engines with really big cams and HD valve springs. They get a little groove on the edge of the rocker shaft and that’s were mine snapped. I tapped the top holes and loctited grub srcews in plus penned them a bit. Work wonders. Broke several shafts before I did this. One set I fitted alu tubes up the centre of the rockers and drilled the bottom holes large and the top holes got a tiny hole.
Enjoying watching the progress. Can’t wait for more. Great work.
To be honest I hadn’t considered this at all, I had the head rebuilt by an engine shop. I was kind of hoping that all the fiddly bits and minuet detail past my spectrum of understanding would be taken care of.
In answer of the question, yes they do.
Seeing as I have only increase pressure of the springs and not changed the camshaft, I might be willing to risk it at first but I do have spare rocker shafts that I could prepare for a cure or preventative maintenance
