The belt is routed correctly. The pivot point of the tensioner is the top left bolt, the top right bolt contains the adjustment slot. The spring is pulling tension on the belt by pulling the idler pulley to the right side of the picture.
Secondly the number off teeth on the belt is less relevant, it is only the tooth count on crank and cam pulleys that matter, I haven’t changed their size and they will still turn in a 2:1 ratio (as in 2 crankshaft revolutions to 1 camshaft revolution).
The new tensioner is routed the same as the original tensioner. The things I changed was the length of the slot in the adjustment slot, and I moved the idler pulley 20 mm to the right to compensate for extra belt length.
I’ve returned to adding fresh steel after an 8 year absence from patching the car with metal. I did body fill some small holes in the wheel arch 5 years ago and I was never amazingly happy with the results.
Initially I couldn’t find my drill to use a caramel wheel and I picked most of it off using a heat gun and a finger nail to start it and pulling it off in sections. Seems the added orange lines were thicker vinyl than the black one vinyl.
I will be painting this car Gloss Berry Pink and o have some reproduction black vinyls to go back on.
[quote=“DaleJeffree, post:243, topic:197”]…The spring is pulling tension on the belt…[/quote]Moving the tensioner beyond its intended position will detract the spring to below its designed-for tension?
The pick up point for the tensioner hasn’t changed. I have only moved the location of the tensioner pulley, and extended the slot to accomadate the different length belt. Everything else is as per factory.
Changed the rear hubs to 12mm wheel studs to match the front hubs that I installed 5 years ago.
While sorting through the parts I found my adjustable lower control arms, they need new rose joints but I hope to fit them soon.
At the beginning of August, I started to try and ramp up on getting the Handivan project going with higher than usual pace. It quickly came to a halt when I failed on making a great fitting part. So I threw in the towel, turned off the shed and spent a few weekends inside watching YouTube and napping.
I’ve started to clean up the the spoilt jobs, do little things here and there. Spend 5 to 10 minutes on a job and head inside. This has come along with ‘great success’ ( now say it like Borat).
I’ve started to dry assemble the clutch and work out what I can get away with vs what needs to be upgraded. Before I assemble it with Loctite.
Things on the list to complete.
New radiator pipes to suit electric water pump and mechanical pump delete.
When it comes to tuning. You can use electrical solder to close the jets if you are running too rich. Have you bought yourself a jet drill bit set? I also run a air/fuel ratio gauge
I have an AEM wide band gauge and a Bosch LSU4.2 sensor.
As for jetting, I’ll be using math to get the Weber 45 DCOE close and tune it with the wide band.
That will be the best way to go. Start with a base and then tune by trial. Just remember weather temperature will also have an effect in the ratio. I kept my primary around 13 and secondarys at 12.5 .
Im still a long way off tuning with my new set up but looking forward to it!
