Wooki3 the L60 Handivan


Car is registered for three months and getting a new exhaust made tomorrow to suit the supercharged set up.


I was told it would not fit. I proved them wrong.


Plenty of room :wink:

1 Like

Another panel painted.


Seems I have an electrical gremlin, when driving with the lights on it sends the temperature gauge to the “H” on the factory gauge.
In the style of me, I measured the temps with a laser temp gun and everything is in spec. So I am going to replace the factory sensor unit and place a triple gauge cluster in the place of the factory AM radio. Provisions so far of the three are boost and water temp, I am open to suggestions for gauge #3.


Oil temp is my preferred method of monitoring what is going on in the engine (though I have two temp gauges, one for what goes into the radiator and one for what comes out of the radiator, this way you can see the thermostat opening and closing for sure). Regardless of what the water temp is doing hitting 115deg C is time to back off for me. For oil pressure use just either the std dash light and a diff sensor/switch that comes on at a higher pressure, say 25psi, or add a second super bright light for the higher pressure sensor/switch and leave the dash low pressure light. Once the dash light with factory pressure sensor comes on in hard corners, braking or accelerating things are to late. I do like the low pressure light for oil changes so I can turn over with no spark and when the light goes out I know I am right to start the engine as it has had oil go through it. The higher pressure light will be on at idle, but should stay off with throttle. While a gauge is helpful to know what pressure you have, it is not something as easy to monitor as a big light that says “get off the throttle - NOW”. While the only car I have with one installed is the Mira, a voltmeter is essential in my opinion and I need to get one in each of my other cars. Here is why. I had one issue in my Datsun 1600 with webbers (non efi, not much current to run the engine) where the alternator overcharged and blew the battery apart (came up like a football and leaked its inside everywhere), and once in an efi car at night and I kept driving only slowly noticing the lights dimming. If I’d had a voltmeter I might have noticed and stopped in a town but ended up quite stranded since I had the car trailer on. So definitely a oil temp and a oil pressure light that goes on at a critical level rather than the factory light which could be a meagre 8 to 12 psi (someone educate me on the 2cyl oil pressure at idle).

1 Like

There is already a “sort of” voltage gauge, there is a green light that indicated battery load.


Usually that is there as a resistor which is needed for the alternator to know what voltage to make (bad explanation).

1 Like

Body repairs made badly. It’s a start but I’m not convinced of my skills, time will tell.


It came up a little cleaner but needs another going over with the body filler. I’m not really too fussy as I have more rear quarters I would like to try when I do it again later.


Fitted a mechanical temp gauge as the electric one is faulty.
Leaving room for boost, and some other third thing.


I sure hope this is OK for automotive use.


Yep Sure is.
However if you asked if it was Ok for long term automotive use. there may be a different answer (-:


yeah it will go on. but also go cream white and destroy itself overtime.


Yeah I’m not really fussed about it being long term but for now it covers rust repairs.

1 Like

Took my car out to Cars On the Coast


Finally learnt how to Roadkill Zip tie ignition leads like a pro.


Rebuilt a carby but it’s still not right so obviously I didn’t do it well enough.

Finally fitted my old wheels


Well after three nights and one with a mechanic mate, still runs poorly. Did manage to work out that the vacuum canister on the dizzy was stuffed. I replaced it but the car still randomly stalls, added gaskets to both sides of the bake-a-lite plate. Still not running right. Trying to work out how to ditch the factory carby.

This is one option that I have been toying with.

The other option is using my Dellorto DRLA

I’m liking this one, i have always wanted the SK DCOE intake that I have seen a few times before.


On news of the car not running great, the brake booster had stopped working. Brakes work but the vacuum assistance had stopped.
To change the booster I will need to remove the dash board. I might leave this to the Easter break, I know I shouldn’t but I don’t have time to take the car off the road, working 42 hours a week.